Art You Wear and me

Rich Beautiful Exhibits Everywhere

2011-04-14T04:30:00.000-07:00

No need to tell you I've been busy and still grieving unexpectedly when alone, so I just couldn't write. But so much is happening in fashion exhibits that I must send this brief note.

Something to See in Every Corner
Until June 5, Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave is on exhibit at the Legion of Honor Museum, San Francisco. If you go to www.amazon.com you will find several books by de Borchgrave and others. I have ordered the book Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle de Borchgrave by Jill D'Alessandro and was hoping to review it for you. But it hasn't arrived yet. There is one review that indicates it's a good book.
Ms. D'Alessandro is curator of the exhibit and gave a lecture earlier this year to the Textile Arts Council. I've heard wonderful comments both about the work and about the exhibit. I hope to see it soon and will tell you all about it. Meanwhile, I found a blog that has photos for you:
tomandlorenzo2.blogspot.com/2011/04/pulp-fashion-by-isabelle-de-borchgrave.html

Until July 4, Balenciaga and Spain is on exhibit at the de Young Museum, San Francisco. This exhibit is curated by Hamish Bowles, European editor-at-large of Vogue magazine, featuring nearly 120 haute couture garments, hats, and headdresses designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972).

I came upon a newspaper review with a few photos:
www.examiner.com/fashion-in-oakland/field-trip-balenciaga-and-spain-exhibition-at-the-de-young-museum This is another show not to be missed, even if I have to walk to get there!

An opening day symposium included speakers Hamish Bowles, Pamela Goblin, Miren Arzalluz, and Lourdes Font. I wasn't able to go, but all is not lost.
The conference was filmed for on-demand viewing. Pay $9.95 USD and you can watch the symposium for the duration of the de Young exhibition which ends on July 4. I watched the preview and wish I could have the whole thing on DVD! This is almost four hours of watching time but that's why you want to be able to go back again and again. Wonderful stuff!
http://fora.tv/conference/Balenciaga_and_Spain

Until June 19, Scaasi: American Couturier, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
www.mfa.org/exhibitions

Until July 10, Yohji Yamamoto, Victoria & Albert Museum, London UK. A retrospective of this most innovative designer. www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/yohji-yamamoto/index.html

Until July 31, Origin and Heritage of Ainu Culture, Burke Museum of Natural History
and Culture, Seattle WA. I just love their clothing designs! www.washington.edu/burkemuseum/exhibits/

May 4 – July 31 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City. A grand retrospective for a brilliant talent lost too soon. www.metmuseum.org/special/se_upcoming.asp

June 16 – Sept. 18 Bojagi and Beyond, an exhibition of traditional patchwork Korean wrapping cloths and contemporary interpretations. Museum of Craft and Folk Art, 15 Yerba Buena Lane, San Francisco. 415 227-4888 www.mocfa.org

John Marshall Has A Blog!
John Marshall has decided to write a blog. He's doing what I like best in his classes, tells how he got to where he is now as an artist and shows us examples of his and others fine art. I mean, it took him six months to dye a piece of fabric for a jacket! It was six months before he could wash out the soy wax. Me, I'm lucky if I leave the fabric sitting overnight. And therein lies a huge difference in the end product. Have a look at John's blog. He makes me feel ok about writing my long ones! http://johnmarshall.to/blog/

More of the Eye Candy made by Priscilla Kibbee
I get so much pleasure from Priscilla's blog (http://priscillakibbee.blogspot.com) but also just as much from her friends' links. These two recorded recent events. At one Priscilla was helping/teaching one of her students, and the other records a recent Priscilla fashion show. Enjoy!
https://picasaweb.google.com/Elizabeth.Brandkamp/20110310GvqcMarchMeeting##

http://www.decampstudio.com/

New Folkwear Patterns
I heard from Kate Matthews of Folkwear Patterns. They have two new patterns coming out. One is a hat that looks perfect for garden parties or summer weddings, or to wear embellished to a street festival. The middy blouse has a flared hemline and sailor collar and also seems ideal for wearable art--more later when I see the pattern. www.folkwear.com

Buy from Artists

2010-12-10T04:37:00.000-08:00

John Marshall
I'm sorry I've been away so long. I'll fill you in as I go along in later updates, but for now I want to get this word out. John Marshall has been holding an online fabric sale. It's ending this week, so to get beautiful silk on bolts or in pieces, yukata, shawls, and on and on, please go to www.JohnMarshall.to and click on the sale icon. John has instructions on how to order and pay. I'd show you what I'd bought, but I'm saving it for myself for Christmas. It's a ten yard bolt of narrow blue silk with an allover leaf pattern in white. Beautiful graphic.

Suzanne Silk (Perilman)
The other reason to hurry on my part, is that Suzanne Silk (Perilman) is having a trunk show and sale on December 11, 2010 at On the Vine in St. Helena, CA. 1234 Main St., St. Helena, CA 707-963-2209 Suzanne will have her signature kimono jackets, shawls and scarves on display and for sale. These are beautifully silk-screened and painted silk garments. Suzanne's work has appeared in many magazines and books, among them Fiberarts magazine.
She appears in a new book just out here: Textiles Now. Drusilla Cole. Laurence King Publishing, London, 2008. www.laurenceking.co.uk The book is available at Amazon.com as well. Briefly, the book features photos of the work of textile artists from all over the world. It displays some wearable art but that's not the central focus. Many, many of the techniques used in art pieces would be an exciting and interesting feature on a garment. Very inspiring. More later...check it out.

Sassy Feet for the Holidays
Then for something a little different. Destiny Carter & Margot Silk Forest of Sassy Feet have painted a boot for Christmas: T'was the Night Before Christmas Boot which you can see at the Jacquard Products website complete with instructions.
jacquardproducts.com/projects/proj0064/

My next update is written, I just have to resize photos. I'll be back as soon as I can. Remember the kitten I found last year and had to return to its owner? He's come back to me, weepy eyes and all. I am so happy to get Sammy back but until the rest of the cat pack accepts him, I spend a lot of time herding cats. Until next time, Rosalie

Dressing Beautifully, Creatively, for Ourselves!

2010-10-14T01:26:00.000-07:00

My Sewing for the Family Wedding
For my niece's wedding I really stepped out of the box! Some time back, I showed you the results of the class I took with Julian Roberts. So many people encouraged me to wear that dress for the wedding, that I just had to make it again.

In an attempt to control where two fabrics would appear together, I sewed the pieces together differently and totally outwitted myself. I still wasn't familiar with the twists that come with the first cuts, and so I ended up with all one fabric in front, and all the other fabric in back. Oops! Meanwhile I was struggling to finish the wedding presents and mom's wedding outfit. So I hung the dress on my dressform and studied it from afar as I worked on other things.

I just wasn't ready for more surprises—I knew the look I wanted, so I abandoned Julian's technique at the last minute, after the first set of holes.

I loved the draping back which reminded me of 1800's fashion. I had tucked in the pointed center which had made it look like something from Issey Miyake. I made a lining that was much shorter than the dress. then I stitched the hem of the dress to that lining. This created an asymmetrical hem that wasn't planned but happened because I didn't stitch the entire hem evenly to the entire lining. I was sewing at the eleventh hour so this had to be quick and dirty. It also created a balloon hem which I rather liked. Voila, a gown for the wedding.
Watching the reactions of people to the real thing, it has more going for it than I thought. Those who don't like or aren't used to the avant garde, don't like this dress. But I've discovered that most people are taken by it.
I'm not going to show you the dress with me in it. I looked like a windblown floral barrel after racing for three hours to get to this wedding. Apologies for photographing without pressing the dress again. My dog Paloma loves the feel of the rayon challis and likes to sleep on it. But mainly you'll see how I combined two fabrics.

Mom's Ensemble
I had made mom a silk ensemble.
She had a hand-painted silk charmeuse blouse I customized to what she wanted. I used a Connie Crawford blouse pattern (Butterick patterns) and as usual it fit perfectly right out of the package, just like it always does for me too. The skirt was purple silk noil, long, narrow, one seam and gathered at the top. The "blender" was a hand-dyed silk chiffon scarf where the dye had been treated with salt (gives a texture to the dye). The scarf was emerald green with royal blue spots. The blouse underneath echoed those colors but also had some orange and purple added. I just walked into Thai Silks, saw the chiffon on the sale rack and built the rest of the fabrics around it.

Pacific International Quilt Festival this Weekend
I hope I get to see many of you at the Pacific International Quilt Festival in Santa Clara. I plan to be there Friday and maybe Saturday (birds will be at home alone so I'll need to dash off). First I photograph the wearable art exhibits. I still owe you the photos from last year, taken just before life fell apart. Then I take turns shopping and looking at quilt exhibits. I must visit Cherrywood Fabrics. I edited the Sweet Clover Canyon quilt pattern, Marmalade & Jam, last fall, and the Cherrywood version should be on display at this show. John Marshall will be in the Bohemian Element booth. He's bringing gold and metallic threads from Japan—I have to see these! If you go to www.quiltfest.com you can see their list of vendors and exhibits. Kayla Kennington will be appearing in the fashion show Friday night and to me she's likely to be the star of the show, next to host, Karen Boutte, who always steals the show. Afterwards we usually retire to the bar in the hotel and discuss wearable art for awhile, so come on by and join us.

Rose of Sharon Blocks and Sharon Pederson
Sharon Pederson will be teaching quilt classes at PIQF. She has just compiled a book and DVD based on winning blocks in the Rose of Sharon EQ6 Block Challenge and these are also an exhibit at the show. With so many roses in these blocks, I was planning to select ideas to applique on various jackets. But in fact, now that I've skimmed the CD, I'm enchanted! Remember the Polish jacket I was making before my husband died? I had drawn my own design and was going to applique the back. Lo and behold, the very idea was very similar to one of the winning blocks in this quilt. The design and Sharon's great instructions on how to do applique with freezer paper or fusibles has just saved me from reinventing the wheel! Go here to order, or look for it at PIQF! www.ninepatchmedia.com

Lorraine Torrence Pattern
I must talk about Lorraine Torrence's Grainline Gear pattern that I described here some time back, the Noren Ensemble #1522.
I went to her booth in Long Beach and saw the pattern made up. What I didn't know was the meaning of Noren which is the curtain over the door when you go to a Japanese restaurant. What I had missed entirely is that the back on the coat or jacket hangs loose like that curtain. In the drawing I thought it was a line across the hips that wasn't too flattering. But indeed, this is an overlay with a very interesting effect. I liked it much better once I saw the real thing. Lorraine will be at PIQF this coming weekend, so come see the coat for yourself.

I also hadn't yet told you about her book of pamphlets about various embellishments. For example, how to enhance your garment with your choice of button or buttons. These pamphlets are also the basis of Lorraine's new DVD. There's something special about having the designer explain what she's doing. Even if you've heard it or read it before, there's a subtle added layer of information that comes from watching her. www.ninepatchmedia.com I will review these further another time, but please make sure you stop by her booth and see what I'm talking about. I also bought her wool felt for creating appliques on felted pieces. She has a sample garment and instructions.

Advanced Fashion from Advanced Style Videos
It's been an incredible morning online. Much creativity is blooming everywhere and people are sharing sources through Facebook. Today I first discovered Tzimora Salamon. There is no quick and easy way to describe Tzimora or her friend Debra and others. I will give you the url to go see for yourself. Tzimora explains so well how to "dress." She wears ethnic clothing that I covet. But it's also how she puts it all together—she's amazing—she says it's like doing a painting. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey58QCTqf_s&NR=1 When you finish watching the video of Tzimora, watch those of Debra and others which should be listed next to the video. I had a kick out of watching Debra shopping at a second-hand store.

Advanced Style Blog
I then read through the blog Advanced Style. It's a blog with great photos and more videos. I think you will love these as much as I do. You will also see the connection to wearable art. We need this sense of style, of having a certain panache, and of showing confidence, to wear some of the things we make. And also, seeing what Ilona Royce Smithkin and others wear will show you that you can be a work of art just with how you put together colors. http://advancedstyle.blogspot.com/ These are senior citizens dressed beautifully.

Are You Dressing Creatively?
These seniors have just given me a whole new mindset about dressing. Somewhere in those pages I read that people seem to dress better as they age. Well, here I am heading toward that side of life. I look at my Vogue patterns and wonder where I would wear these things, to my trips to Wal-mart and Safeway? And then it dawned on me that I should be dressing for myself, not for the people around me. Yes, I can wear Lynn Mizono's coat to grocery shopping. I would feel that much more confident if I finally made that Issey Miyake jacket and just wore it anywhere. Somehow becoming a widow has freed me in my fashion restrictions. My husband was conservative in dress (though not in thought) and if I wore an asymmetrical hem he would bend over and wonder aloud if he should help me trim my hem so it was even all around. I find it strange, but apparently some restrictive bonds have been cut because I am being more adventurous in what I'm making and wearing these days. It's a happy result! Till next time, Rosalie

Wearable Art at the IQA Conference in Long Beach, 2010

2010-09-16T03:00:00.000-07:00

First, sad notes:
Fred Bloebaum
Remember Fred Bloebaum and La Fred patterns?

Nick Coman sent word that designer Fred Bloebaum passed away on September 4, 2010. She'd been battling insidious cancer and, if anything, this brings an end to her suffering. But we will miss her spark among us. I always picture her as I knew her before she became La Fred. We met at The Sewing Workshop long ago where eventually she was teaching classes before starting the pattern company. The Sewing Workshop would have an Open House with fashion displays and sales on fabrics and buttons and such. We regulars were enticed to come by and see what was new and exciting. Fred was always there with her short, sleek dark red hair and sparkle. www.lafred.com/ I know there was a sale of everything in Fred's business so I can't tell you if you would receive any response to her website if you wanted to buy a pattern, but I think you might like to see the gallery.

I have received word that family and friends are invited to celebrate her life on Friday, Sept 17, 1 pm at Plymouth United Church of Christ, 424 Monte Vista Avenue, Oakland, CA. Per Fred's request, please wear your favorite colors. In lieu of flowers, donations may be made to Project Open Hand 730 Polk Street, San Francisco, CA and Sutter VNA Hospice, 1900 Powell St, Emeryville CA.

Bonnie Leman
We also lost Bonnie Leman, the founder of Quilter's Newsletter Magazine. She was one of the major sparks behind the resurgence of quiltmaking in the US. Her magazine continues in other hands, but she's the one who persevered with it for so many years at her kitchen table and brought the old skills to the fore.

I'm catching up on weeks of notes. This one started at the end of July, 2010:
IQA, Long Beach
I'm back from the International Quilt Festival in Long Beach, rejuvenated, happy to have been with friends, and also very happy that I went to David Taylor's lecture and to Saturday Sampler. David Taylor is a quilter with a style all his own. www.davidtaylorquilts.com This has nothing to do with wearable art except that he kept talking about how his quilting has gotten more and more dense. I thought that was a good concept for quilted clothing. The more quilting, the stiffer the fabric, but on the other hand, I like the look of a garment that has complex quilting. In other words the quilting becomes more texture than design. You just have to allow for the stiffness through the garment shape you choose, and/or judicious placement of quilted areas. You don't have to quilt from edge to edge.

Glennis Dolce
As for Saturday Sampler, that's where I met Glennis Dolce whose comments I've been reading on Facebook. It's always good to hear the thoughts and frustrations of an artist and to know she's having the same problems you are, so that's why the Facebook comments are so interesting. Glennis calls herself the Shibori Girl because she does a lot of shibori dyeing. Go to her blog to see a video of her booth in Long Beach http://shiborigirl.wordpress.com/ and what she has for sale. She pleats up silk pieces and dyes them, then sells them as ribbons and the basic components of soft flowers you can wear, among other ideas (in the photo Glennis is wearing her flowers on her shoulder). I sat in on her lecture at the Saturday Sampler to see how she creates her flowers. They're pretty and soft and many of you would likely want to try this. She also had pieces of her indigo-dyed fabrics which interested me most.

Jude Hill
A big draw for me in that booth was to see up-close the quilted collages made by Jude Hill. I'm one of Jude's fans because I love hand embroidery and especially the way she uses it—I study her work on Facebook—but she also has a website and a "what if" blog. http://spiritcloth.typepad.com/what_if/ http://spiritcloth.typepad.com/what_if/ This blog is so inspiring to me because it reminds me to try little things. It doesn't have to be a huge experiment, I can do some little work on a corner of a jacket, try a little paint, use a different stitch, and voila, it will get noticed. I have a store-bought denim jacket that I never wear because it needs embellishment. But I didn't want it to look like what everyone else makes with little bits of lace and charms and yo-yos, or appliques, that sort of thing. Since I admire Jude's collages so much, I thought that's what I'll put on my denim jacket. I'll use the packet of Glennis Dolce's indigo pieces which are cut and ready for me to test my layout and embroidery skills.

Saturday Sampler
A few more words about Saturday Sampler. If you're not familiar with this event, a number of teachers are set up with mini classrooms around a big room. You move from one teacher to the next as they give a short lecture. I love to go to these because you can get up close to some very famous teachers with wonderful techniques. You get a taste of their lecture style, you get a view of that person's personality, and usually you can buy their book or products. This time I met Esterita Austin. I wasn't a fan of her rocks quilts and was surprised when friends told me how much they enjoyed her classes. Well, five minutes with Esterita and I'm a convert! She's funny, she's innovative, and she knows what she's doing with all kinds of techniques. There were several others I will tell you about another time.

I Shopped, No Books, etc.
Did I shop at the show? You bet, I really helped the economy because I haven't been to an IQA show in four years, but it was different. So many favorite vendors were missing—Treadleart books is always my most important stop and they weren't there. The only garment patterns booths were those of Lorraine Torrence and Saf-T-Pockets. Not that I'm complaining, those are two special companies, but in the land of southern California where there's a large wearable arts group www.wearableartconnection.org/, why weren't there more vendors with garment patterns and more products that would be of interest to them. I have no doubt with the economy, many vendors couldn't afford to pay to go and also risk losing more if the customers weren't there. But I'm wishing it weren't so.

What I Missed
Why wasn't the Wearable Art Connection represented? Why wasn't there an exhibit of the fabulous clothes they have? I know Justine Limpus Parish was busy with a sale at the Palos Verdes art gallery. But she's one of many designers who live in the area. So on that level I was really disappointed. I took photos of the only garments I found in the exhibits. I know Judy Mullen made the kitty-cat jacket, but I'm sorry, I didn't record the names of the other artists. If you know who they are, please send me a comment so I can give them credit. The pieced jacket was part of an exhibit of pineapple block quilts.

No Competitions?
There is something else. Strictly on the level of quilt exhibits, we (meaning various people I talked to) felt the lack of a superior quality. The SAQA exhibit was worth seeing for the great variety of ideas and techniques. But the entire IQA show as a whole fell flat, there was little to excite and stimulate. Nothing stood out for me and so said the others. I thought maybe I was feeling some ennui. This was my first big show since my husband died, the drive itself was a big event, and I wasn't yet geared to creative interests. But I don't think it was just me. Something was missing from making this a fabulous show and someone thought it was the competitive aspect. No one was striving to win first place, and likely these shows weren't juried, so we got interesting pieces but nothing spectacular.

Saturday Runway Show
I was thrilled to find that they had arranged a one hour runway show for Saturday afternoon in Long Beach. It turned out to be lackadaisical or maybe the word is lackluster. When the person running the show proudly explained that she had embellished her long vest with Steam-a-seam® gold tape which she had ironed in a long line around the openings, what could I do but groan? This they present as an example of wearable art? She then brought out another person who works in the background at the show, explained that she doesn't sew either, but had crafted a jacket from scraps. I didn't get a close look. I'm sorry, but beginning sewing doesn't come close to a competition-winning work of wearable art. The amount of work involved is far and away beyond what a beginner could conceive of and I wouldn't want anyone to have the impression that a bit of embellishment is all it takes.

Stitch-in-Time?
Fortunately there was a small nod to the competition of Stitch-in-Time, and several women displayed their work. I think these entrants came from the Stitch-in-Time show held in Houston last fall but I don't really know—I was held up at the front of the hall and was a couple of minutes late so missed introductions. They paraded up and down the aisles so I got photos though not names. (Please send me the names if you know them.)

This fashion show was over in 35 minutes. I think they were gearing this for quilters who don't make clothes, trying to encourage them to try it. I heard one older lady say, "That was interesting." It was, briefly, as you can see in these photos. But it was just a start; just a bit of representation of wearable art. Not really enough to get fingers tingling and juices flowing, and making people rush to their machines.

By All Means Plan to go to Long Beach!
All that said, would I encourage you to go to the show in Long Beach? Yes, because it's still very new and evolving. I was told they will no longer put on the fashion show based on the Stitch-in-Time show from Houston—so this was just a lame finish. It wasn't clear if they would have any wearable art displays next year. I imagine the cost of insurance for these garments continues to be prohibitive and people don't show enough interest. But I do think we could find willing local designers who would share their work—at least I'm wishing it were so. The wearable art group in Los Angeles is heady with skilled garment artists. Let's give them an exhibit or even a fashion show. If they can do it for local art galleries, why not for the IQA show? That would give us something really worth seeing!

If you have any new ideas for something to replace the Bernina shows in Houston (maybe on a limited budget), and what might work in Long Beach, please let me know. I can put you in touch with the people who want to hear it. By the way, I also took photos of passersby who were wearing something interesting.

I did find interesting things to buy in Long Beach. I'm going to stop here now. My next update is half written and I will describe the products I found plus maybe more about what I've been doing all summer (sewing!). Stand by! Rosalie

I Love Serendipity—the fortuitous discoveries!

2010-07-18T23:58:00.000-07:00

Today I went to photograph my dress so I could show you details up close. I stopped to take a picture of my bird Dolly and then the camera went silent. The battery had run out and I hadn't noticed. Why serendipity? Because usually my batteries would die in the middle of my photographing the Fairfield or Bernina fashion shows! I'm about to travel and might have left with a dead battery! It's charging as I speak.

Happy 90th Mama!
I was photographing a lot lately. Mom turned 90 and I threw her a birthday party. So instead of the dress, here's mom! That's neighbor Trinity with her. Mom was Queen for the day, and Trinity was princess of July Fourth.
Trinity and her brothers decorated the pink foam tiaras using glitter glue, crystals, buttons, fussy-cut fabric flowers, and beads. The sparkle was wonderful! Then someone chose not to bring the birthday cake after all, so I proved my love of color with the strawberry pizza I'd made (recipe on Google) and fortunately I'd found birthday candles on toothpicks. Came out great! Best, happiest, unposed picture I've ever taken of mom.

The store sign was made in secret by her next door neighbor Mike who is so sensitive to her needs. Now just come visit her store at 1610 Cedar St. in Calistoga to make her even happier. She gives knitting and crochet lessons too.

International Quilt Festival, Long Beach, CA
I have so much to tell you. I have ordered my tickets and hotel room to go to the International Quilt Festival in Long Beach, CA on July 22. I went to Houston for ten years but I'm not ready to plunge into the big show yet, especially when the Bernina fashion show is no more. I also have to admit that I don't relish getting on a plane. I'm going to attempt the trip by car. Anyone here in N. California who would like to make the trip with me? I have a room with two beds reserved, so I'm ready to go. I've already heard from friends who will be there so for me it will be like going back to who I was before my husband died. I'll be at the Westin hotel if you're coming too though you can likely find me at the show. Did you know that the Chicago version of the show has been moved to Cincinnati, OH? For details, go to www.quilts.com

Designing with Julian Roberts
Two weeks ago I took a class with Julian Roberts. Do you remember me mentioning him last year? He's the English designer/professor/rebellious person who has designed a new way of sewing clothes.
These are clothes that look something like Issey Miyake, Commes des Garcons, and Rei Kawakubo styles. I knew from the get-go that this wasn't anything I would wear, but I went because I'd been craving to be among people who know what a seam allowance is. Leslie Gelber and Diane Ericson were in class among many others I've gotten to know over the years. Julianne, for example, won a Threads competition in the last year—see more information below.

We listened to the introduction to this one technique—he has others described in his new book, School of Subtraction Cutting, available for $60 at the Center for Pattern Design: http://www.centerforpatterndesign.org/. I haven't seen it yet but expect to get it. He also has patterns available—he shows you how he has created specific dresses. I got a kick out of Julian because he's a slim, slight "chap" with an intense energy, very kinetic, and dresses like the "rockers" did back when I was in England as the Beatles were becoming famous—very pointy shoes, slim pants, close-fitting shirt. He creates videos, does graphics, builds websites and then puts out fashion lines and teaches us his techniques. The whole time he's teaching, he has one of his fashion videos running in the background. Wouldn't that be distracting? Not to him, he's of that age where they're used to all the technology and noise. If anything, it made us focus on him that much more.

In an hour or two he had cut and sewn a beautiful gown. After lunch we got to do the same. Look around online to get glimpses of his work and tours http://www.fuk.co.uk/news/julian_roberts_us_pattern_cutting_tour (old website) www.julianand.com (new website, available only 10 am to 8 pm on Wednesday no matter where you are in the world!) A search on Google brings up more blog comments and photos. He also had samples hanging on the wall which I photographed for you but couldn't get past the sewing machine. Here are two of his dresses:

I had bought a piece of cotton gauze at Walmart, figuring it wouldn't be much to lose and maybe it was something I could give mom. I had picked something heavier as the second material. But as I was about to leave the house, I saw the putty-colored lining fabric I've had lying around for years, to snip off as needed. I regularly will buy something like that for quick experiments or as an interlining. I complicated the process by having one piece longer than the other. In the end, that circumstance added interest to the garment. I don't want to give the technique away though. As a demonstration, in about two hours Julian cut and sewed up a new dress from what looked like two pieces of cotton, one red, one white.

OK, so here he is using his circle technique. Nothing too complicated—you start with your own tanktop pattern then sew edges of two holes together and continue in this way. In the end you have to figure out where's the path for your body to enter the garment. Julian had to help me with mine because I had something like the floating buttresses holding up Chartres cathedral inside my dress. There's just a lot of twists and turns that you don't see on the outside. I put it on and I felt like a million bucks. There are torn holes in the lining fabric, the design features start too low and show off the worst of my body, but I felt like a princess. When I looked at all of us in our gowns, I felt like we were in the wild, wild west—the gowns women wore in saloons, or something contemporary from Japan. Certainly they have the feel of something out of the 1800's and yet are totally avant garde. I just fished mine out and put it on the dress form and the top looks like flapper twenties, but that's because my design started too low and I didn't sew in bust darts. I also want more happening in back so I have to figure out how to do it. These photos aren't flattering—I had put all the excess fabric on my shoulder trying to cover up that I was still wearing my t-shirt. So it looks like I'm wearing a sari. In future I'll show you how it looks with the excess removed.

With the help of Julian's assistant, girlfriend, and fellow artist (a lovely girl), I got photos of the group of students. One of my favorite dresses is from two pieces of red cotton. See what you think. I'm sorry, I lost my record of names so have to go back and get them again. In the meantime, look at the "rose" on this red dress. My other favorite was this slim dress made from Japanese fabrics.

Julian's desire was for us to catch the experimentation bug and to move out of our comfort zone—not just in this classroom but after we left it. Certainly his technique forces you to leave all rules of structured garment sewing behind. He sure got to me! One of my classmates insisted that I should wear the dress to my niece's wedding at the end of August. I've decided to make another one and see how it looks and feels. I'll be trying some "what ifs". I've bought a black and pink floral challis and a rayon with much smaller flowers. I thought the two worked off each other somewhat well—I doubt I could find a black rayon easily these days. I'll know better how I feel about that once I photograph them together. So here goes. Now I'll have to go out and buy new shoes—running shoes and clogs just don't go with the dress! I'll tell you one thing, this process makes me turn my back on working with patterns simply because I don't have to work with anything but my own sloper. There are no fitting issues below the bust.

Julian Roberts did show us how to work with sleeves and pants. Leslie Gelber had brought in a dress she made after last year's class. It was completely out of net and stunning. My photos didn't do it justice. This time she made pants out of a stiff fabric so they weren't quite wearable, but we got the idea of what's involved. It really brought us back to basic shapes of clothing. A tank dress, harem pants, and other shapes you will find in the book, Cut My Cote, or among ethnic Folkwear patterns. Now I want to stop talking and get to my cutting table and sewing machine. I have to sew up placemats but might just get started on the gown first.

I'm busy adjusting my "sari" and that is Julianne on the right. I think she'd taken the class before so this time she made a skirt. Most attractive on her.

That is Linda who makes buttons on the left. The person next to her with a black and silver item is Leslie Gelber with her pants.

And then there's me. Oh drat, I forgot to resize the photo showing our backs. You'd see how the back of my dress is all blah lining but with interesting seaming. Another time.

Sew Boat Retreat 2010
Mary Lou Rankin of Park Bench Patterns has set up a Sewing retreat in San Diego for September 16-19. She knows she's thought this up very late but she's thrilled to get a deal on rooms in a four star hotel. She and her partner, Judy Stinton, will be the teachers. If you've been to Mary Lou's booth at various shows, you know what a wonderful eye she has for combining fabrics and colors. Her designs are distinctive, soft and loose-fitting. You will be staying at the Loews Coronado Resort & Marina located on the Silver Strand Beach in Coronado across the bay from downtown San Diego. Classes will be held in their spacious conference rooms. In addition you will enjoy continental breakfasts daily aboard a private houseboat anchored at the marina. You will also enjoy a field trip to Old Town for a Mexican lunch and shopping for fabric and embellishments. Reservations must be made by August 15th. For more details, go to http://parkbenchpatterns.com/ Judy Stinton: email: FStinton@cox.net
Mary Lou Rankin: email: parkbenchpatternc@cox.net phone: 619-269-9808

Custom-made Enamel Buttons from Linda Lingren
I asked Linda about her jewelry and whether she made buttons. Oh yes. The backs are finished in a different pattern from the front. These are part of the hydrangea series. She has a studio at the Art Explosion in the Mission area of San Francisco. If you'd like to contact Linda, please write to me in comments and I'll forward the message. Linda was in Julian's class—she's on the far left in the first group photo.

What's to See Online
“The Dressmaker’s Art: Highlights From the Bruce Museum’s Costume Collection,” Bruce Museum, 1 Museum Drive, Greenwich, through Sept. 5. Information: brucemuseum.org or (203) 869-0376. See article: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/11/nyregion/11artct.html?_r=2&ref=fashion

I can hardly believe this but thought you'd like to see the continuing outrageous ideas in shoes in Japan: http://www.fernmitchell.com/shoeJapan.php

More eye candy from past centuries. This is an upcoming show at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700–1915, doesn’t open till October 2: http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2010/07/culturedjuly-2010.html

Go to Julianne Batkin Bramson's website to be reminded of the gown that won her top prize at Threads magazine. (She designs patterns again, so do have a look.) http://www.fashioninharmony.com/ Note she will be a featured teacher at the American Sewing Expo in Novi and is appearing at the American Sewing Guild National Conference in Georgia.

New Japanese Fashion Designers: http://www.cnngo.com/tokyo/shop/artistic-japanese-designers-515541

The Sewing Workshop has decided to try printing patterns in Plus sizes 1X-5X. They're starting with the Valencia Pants. patterns@sewingworkshop.com 1-800-466-1599 sewingworkshop.com

California Fiber Artists is exhibiting at the Chico Art Center opening Satuday, July 31, 2010—August 22, 2010. Chico Art Center, 450 Orange Street, Suite 6, Chico CA 95928 Open daily 10-4pm
Reception: Saturday, July 31, 7-9pm Gallery: 530/891-5945 www.chicoartcenter.com

On the Road with Austin & Santino
It’s going to one chic road trip according to TV News from People magazine, "Two of Project Runway‘s most memorable contestants—Austin Scarlett and Santino Rice—are heading to a small town near you for a new show on Lifetime". The show starts July 29 after Project Runway‘s season 8 premiere. It will follow the duo as they 'travel to and immerse themselves in the culture of small towns across America to create new, dream-come-true looks for special women in unique situations'. In the 14-episode series, Austin and Santino will face differences in opinion and demanding clients." Hope the focus stays on the designing and sewing and not the sturm und drung.

Till next time, keep sewing and embellishing—and stop to say hi in Long Beach! Rosalie

Information to Feed Your Artwear Ideas

2010-06-15T15:59:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone! My efforts at healing are paying off, I feel like writing and sewing more than I did in the last few months. Great to be feeling back on track! In fact, I started attending a quilt class today to improve my skills. Nothing like some easy piecing to get my confidence back.

Lorraine Torrence/Grainline Gear Patterns
Lorraine Torrence is a clothing and Bernina designer who has steadfastly produced garment patterns through the years. I used to visit her large booth in Houston where you would find not only the patterns and samples made up to try on, but also special fabrics and buttons to match. Lorraine has produced a full-color, glossy catalog of her patterns, available for the asking at www.lorrainetorrence.com. This you have to see. Just flipping through the pages makes you want to make artwear. I'm always a sucker for lots of color and different ideas. If you've been getting Lorraine's or Grainline Gear patterns all along, then many of these will be familiar to you. I consider it a catalog of inspiration to remind me to make up more of these designs. I have gotten to touch most of these because I thought they looked heavy. Make them from silk and they are light as a feather and even drapey. Make them from wool and you have a warm coat or jacket. They're all versatile and very wearable. It's up to you with your fabric choices to make them visible from a mile away or just right for a meeting.

Here's the latest Grainline Gear pattern, Noren Ensemble #1522, designed by Ruth Vincent. At first I thought it was a version of Lorraine's Bernina coat that I liked so much--the one made in pastels with interesting embellishments (you can see it on her website). But no, this is entirely different and considered a jacket in two lengths. Ruth has added panels with an embellishment design included. I'm going to lengthen the panel in back or make the horizontal stripe from the same fabric as the lower part, because I don't want a horizontal stripe to cut my already short body, but I like the panels. You're getting a whole wardrobe in just one pattern: two jacket lengths, two pant lengths, and a blouse. At first I thought that the blouse was a vest so I will check fit to see if it will work as a vest. Either way it's a nice addition. I can't wait to try the pants. I like how the waistband is made with an elastic around the back, but has a flat front. Those angled pockets are among my favorites. Can you see the jacket closures? They're loops and buttons, but you can be as creative as you want in this area. Both jackets and pants have mitered side slits.

Do you want a challenge? If you make a Lorraine Torrence or Grainline Gear pattern, please send me photos and I'll put them up in the blog. If you want to stay anonymous let me know and I'll crop the face. As it is, I try to remove anything in the background that will distract from the garment. Send to me: rosekcooke at aol dot com. Of course you can write to me here too. I am getting so much spam these days that hopefully posting this to you won't make much difference. I do wish we could have a continuous dialog about artwear/wearable art and anything else you want to talk about.

John Marshall
I received an email from John yesterday: "I hope you're enjoying the summer! I'd like to remind you about my summer classes in Covelo, CA. There are a few slots still open (and he's farther north of me so you should know you're getting a country vacation with fresh food and fresh air). If you haven't seen my web site recently, check out the class information at: www.johnmarshall.to/J-1-aa-studioClasses.htm

"I'll be at Convergence next month, so I'm hoping to see many of you there. I thought you might like to have a sneak peek at what I will be bringing with me, so I've posted a few things online. If you'd care to pay for them now, I will gladly bring them with me to pass on to you, or for those of you who won't be able to make it to Albuquerque, you're welcome to do your shopping online.

"I've just posted three categories of fabrics:
kinran (silk and gold weavings); shibori (Japanese tie-dye); and urushiori (Japanese lacquer weavings). Please take a look when you have a moment:
www.johnmarshall.to/I-1-Treasures.htm

Over the next couple of weeks I'll be filling in all the other categories listed on the page. Next up will be Japanese velvets, leno weaves, and bingata."

Editor's Opinion Piece--Send in Garments
Now that Quilts Inc. in Houston, Cincinnati (new location replacing Chicago), and Long Beach, no longer has a Bernina Fashion show, nor anything to really replace it (Yes, I know we still have the fashion show luncheon and the little IQA wearable art competition, but it's not the same big thing.), it's time to focus even more on the shows of the Mancuso Bros.
The Mancuso Brothers just put out a call for wearable art entries. Last year I noticed they had way fewer garments than before. As long as they're putting aside a big space for garments at the Pacific International Quilt Festival, and organize it so that we're able to see all around each piece, the least we could do is to enter their competition. I have to make two garments for a wedding this summer, but if I can manage, I'm going to put something in this show. Please come and join in so that we can keep artwear alive in public! Otherwise we'll lose vendors and the interest of the public, and no one will consider putting on fashion shows. quiltfest.com/

Happenings in the Textile Community in the San Francisco Bay Area
There are many things happening in the textile community as the weather finally warms:

The Art of Fashion: Experimental Textiles, an exhibition of work by Dr. Kinor Jiang May 13–July 18, 2010, University of California, Davis, Design Museum. Professor of textiles at Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Dr. Jiang has collaborated with designers to produce innovative and futuristic textiles which also reflect their cultural and artistic heritage. www.designmuseum.ucdavis.edu

Trunk sale: Lao Textiles: The Spirit of an Ancient Culture
Saturday, June 19, 12 – 5 pm, The Folk Art Gallery, 1321–4th Street, San Rafael, CA. Meet Kongthong Nanthavong-doungsy, owner of the Phaeng Mai Gallery in Vientiane, Laos. She brings a beautiful collection of hand-woven, natural fiber, and natural-dyed traditional textiles. www.thefolkartgallery.com 415-925-9096

Weaving Women’s Empowerment: NIF and the Lakiya Negev Weaving Project, Thursday, June 24 7–9 pm in San Francisco. A special reception, exhibit and sale of handcrafted Bedouin weavings from the Lakiya Negev weavers. Abir Joubran-Dakwar, Israel-US Civil Liberties Fellow with the New Israel Fund, will discuss social change in Israel’s Bedouin community. Refreshments will be served and reservations are required. Address upon RSVP. $18 suggested donation. 415-543-5055 email: sf@nif.org

Plan to join the San Francisco Textile Arts Council for a mid-summer feast of ethnic textiles on the weekend of July 17–18, 2010:

Towards a New Horizon: Empowering Women Through Traditional Embroidery Saturday, July 17, 12 – 5 pm, The Folk Art Gallery, 1321 – 4th Street, San Rafael, CA. Meet women from the Ahir, Ribari and Sadha tribal groups of Gujurat, India and admire their vibrant needlework. They will show a film about SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association), demonstrate their embroidery, and give you a chance to purchase extraordinary textiles. A portion of sales will benefit TAC. www.thefolkartgallery.com 415-925-9096

Mystic Iban Textiles of Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo
7th Annual Carol Walter Sinton program for Craft Art
Sunday, July 18, 10 am, Koret Auditorium, de Young Museum, San Francisco, CA. Artist and scholar Edric Ong, weavers Bangie Embol and Nancy Ngali, and musician Mathew Ngau will present the ancient arts of Sarawak, especially the powerful Iban textiles derived from dreams sent by the Weaving Goddesses. Free to TAC members, $5 FAMSF members and students, $10 for non-members www.textileartscouncil.org

New Oakland Fiber and Textile Festival in Oakland
Sunday, June 27, Oakland Fiber and Textile Festival, 10:00 am to 4:00 pm, Splash Pad Park (Lake Park Avenue at Grand Avenue) This is the very first Oakland Fiber & Textile Festival. It is open to the pubic and is free. Local artisans will be selling their beautiful and original wares. For the fiber enthusiast--knitter, spinner, weaver, felter, quilter, there will be vendors and bargains. For the curious and kids, there will be demonstrations and hands on activities such as making your own yarn with a spindle made from a CD. Find out what to do with those annoying plastic bags that come with your daily newspaper. This is a fundraiser for the Oakland parks and arts programs. www.oaklandfiberfest.com Thanks to Carole Parker of Penwag for this information.

Hawaiian Textiles Exhibit at San Jose Quilt Museum
Everyone is raving about the Alfred Shaheen: Fabric to Fashion exhibit at the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles (ends August 8, 2010). It includes not only Hawaiian shirts and women's wear, but also explains the fabric printing/silk-screening and design aesthetic of the man who brought aloha wear to the world. I've heard people say "spectacular" and "very exciting." Two other exhibits are of kapa cloth and Hawaiian quilts. Read more at the website and the Mercury News article. www.sjquiltmuseum.org/exhibitions.html
Also: www.mercurynews.com/san-jose-neighborhoods/ci_15105729?nclick_check=1

Textiles at the De Young Museum,
To Dye For: A World Saturated with Color Opening on July 31st at the De Young Museum in San Francisco. This cross-cultural look at resist dye techniques will showcase pieces from the FAMSF collection as well as loans, and track the use of these intricate methods as they emerge from historical tradition onto today’s fashion catwalks. www.famsf.org/

Color
Continuing in this theme of dyes and color, last year I discovered the book, Color, A Natural History of the Palette by Victoria Finlay, Random House Trade Paperbacks, 2002. ISBN 0-8129-7142-6 www.atrandom.com. It was my reading of choice when I was resting in physical therapy. This is not the usual book about using a color wheel and that sort of thing. This is actually a highly entertaining and engrossing book about where colors come from, what painters have used through the centuries (they couldn't just go out and buy a bottle of this and that), and some of the cultural stories around color. It gives you a whole new perspective on color and the difficulties in creating the dyes. She takes you around the world getting these stories, and draws on both historical and scientific facts. Best of all, it's written in a conversational style, nothing professorial-sounding about it. This book was originally published in England as Colour.

Color Examples
While I'm on the topic of color, I thought I'd bring you examples.
I'm surprised at how much text I've written today, because I was finding it hard to think and express myself. Because the words weren't coming, I went outside with my camera for examples of color in nature. I live on volcanic foothills, so we have only tiny wildflowers but here's a sample. Notice the proportions of the different colors you see. There's only a tiny bit of the bright yellow in the blue flower. Same for the lime green in another photo.

Can you make a garment using only the colors in these photos and in the same proportion?

What do you think, a charcoal gray jacket with white/gray and trim of lime through copper?

The sunset is from last night. It was spectacular--look at all the different colors in it.

I took these from our deck so you can see the reflection in our lake.

Then because it was the start of spring when I started writing this and collecting photos, I have to share this year's twin fawns. This was the first day they were out in my yard and mom brought them right up to my studio gate. The deer have been gone all winter but I see that like any animal that has come to recognize someone, they sure remembered me. This doe has no fear of me though I have never touched her. But I suppose she knows my scent because I sit quietly watching them. The great news is that the little male, Hoppy, who had a smashed leg last year, survived the winter. I had expected coyotes to get him, but no, here he was at my gate. His antlers have started to grow. The leg doesn't work perfectly, it's twisted, but the skin has healed and he's able to walk and run when necessary. He does rest it often. But my boy is back! It was worth the effort to make sure he had shelter and water. John had nicknamed him.

Making Trinity's Doll
These days I also have the company of 7-year-old Trinity. She lives across the street, is often bored, and is both intelligent and artistic. Last year we tried hand-sewing a doll but that took too long. The hand embroidery will come with time. I took a different tack this year.
First Trinity colored in the body shape on white cotton, using her wax crayons. She started with a skin tone and then went over that to make her final design. The back is colored on the bias. Once the coloring was finished, I put the fabric between two pieces of parchment paper and ironed gently with a hot iron. After a few minutes, we tested to make sure the fabric didn't feel waxy. The color just sank right into the cotton. Next I stitched, turned the fabric inside out, then we stuffed it, and voila, a doll. I am amazed at Trinity's sense of style and her color choices. I want her to color my next vest fabric! The only boo-boo was putting eyes on the back of her head. I covered it with loopy yarn hair and then decided to turn it into a long braid so everyone knows this is a girl.

My Cat & Dog Photos
And finally, I can't pass up sharing photos of Lolalee and Paloma. Lolalee has grown to immense proportions.

Her fur is so long that I can't tell if she's skinny inside. She eats well so I don't worry. But she doesn't fit inside her fleece donuts comfortably anymore.
As for Paloma, the dog, I found out she doesn't like to have her picture taken. Where Lolalee poses, Paloma runs away. These are two of my constant companions and a great comfort. Yes, Lolalee still bites, but has moments of lap time and snuggles and sweet affection. Paloma is sweet as candy except when she's guarding me. Lovely sweet dog!

Free Dragonfly pattern
I thought you might enjoy this pattern. I'm inclined to embroider this design onto a jacket or blouse. It will be just as lovely as a pin or hairclip. www.annieskeepsakes.com/freepatter1.htm

Until next time, keep sewing! Rosalie

Turning to Magazines (and Patterns) for Design Ideas

2010-05-06T04:08:00.000-07:00

I've mentioned before that I'm an editor. Before Christmas I helped Sarah Whitney polish her first published quilt pattern, Marmalade & Jam, An Artful Sampler.

It's a small art quilt made with batiks. I want to try it once as is, then repeat the pattern until I have enough yardage for a jacket. Sarah was so precise with instructions that I bet even a beginning quilter could manage this one. More details at her website: www.sweetclovercanyon.com

Yvonne Porcella is famous for her quilts--and for what she has done for art quilting--as well as her wearable art. I've followed her from way back, when she brought out those simple patterns for vests and jackets in a book with a black background. Then there was all that pastel color and the burning of silk to make fluttering, fray-free flower petals on dresses.
Now, at last, Yvonne has partnered with the Sewing Workshop to present a jacket pattern. Go to her website to see some of her samples of this pattern. www.yvonneporcella.com It's a roomy, knock-about, light jacket--at least that's my impression. I haven't yet tried it. The packaging is experimental, interesting, but not strictly practical when you try to fold up the pattern pieces and put them back in the container. I'll go back to using plastic kitchen bags. I think the jacket is going to be easy and fun to try. Yvonne gives several variations on closures and ideas for embellishment, changes of collar vs neckline, different lengths, and different pockets and sleeves. She includes pattern pieces for each variation.

I also want to bring your attention to the magazine, Sew Stylish (www.SewStylish.com), put out by Taunton Press Inc. who bring us Threads magazine. Threads brings us wonderful ideas for the more experienced in clothes sewing. Sew Stylish is aimed at those who are newer to sewing. For me it's like a refresher course, reminding me of things I've learned and forgotten. (Do these magazines reach other countries? I wonder. My readers are all over the world so I would like to know if you have access to magazines such as these. Please write and let me know in the comments.)

The Spring issue of Sew Stylish covers a topic I believe in.
Sprinkled throughout are photos from designer runway shows, to show how you can use similar designer ideas in your own clothes. Sew Stylish even explains how to get the effect or the look, which is invaluable information. I collect fashion photos from Elle magazine, Bazaar, and other magazines that focus on the latest fashions. I put them into plastic sleeves in binders so they become a record that's easy to find.

You have to learn to look carefully for designer details in these photos. It's easy to flip through the pages and be distracted by the model, the poses, the backgrounds and so on. But stop and research the clothes--you'll find any number of great details that you can incorporate into your own designs. These photos don't always show the shapes as well, but in making wearable art, it's the details that count for much. One really important thing I found, these kinds of details don't age. I have 20 year old photos and the ideas are still fresh.

For example, in the May issue of Elle, on page 273, you have an image of a cape from Louis Vuitton. For me this would be an interesting graphic design on a jacket or vest. What technique to use? Think about what you know, applique, piecing, painting fabric, shibori dyeing, embroidery, or beading. Color is another element to consider. (I can't show any of these photos because of copyright restrictions.) On page 120 is a photograph of a pair of shoes. They're arranged as a structural, graphic design that could translate into an interesting shape on a stamp or stencil.
Can you see the X shape I tried to emphasize in my drawing? What caught my eye is the colors used, and the proportion of each of the colors. There's a pale lime green and a deep red, held together with tan and beige on a strong black heel. Credit is given to Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere. Here you have a pro giving you unusual color combinations.

On page 162 look at the gray skirt by Yigal Azrouel. First you see texture, then you see interesting lines on the bias.
Now you want to figure out whether those are appliqued strips of tucks attached to a base fabric, or is the skirt pieced from panels of tucked fabric. No matter, you're not out to copy the skirt so much as getting an idea that you can use in a jacket or coat.

One photo shows a dress from Gaultier Paris. The image is small, most of the photo is of the room the model is in. They're balancing textures and proportions. But read the description. This is woven jersey and shantung. You can see enough to know that the vertical strips hang down loose at the hem. I'm willing to bet the more stable shantung is the horizontal white strips, and the jersey is the black vertical strips. Doesn't matter whether we guess right or not--it's an idea that suggests what you can do somewhere in your garments--simply weave together two contrasting colors. Note also the bodice uses narrower strips than does the skirt.

Now that I've suggested this exercise in magazine photos, or from any wonderful designer fashion books (check www.Amazon.com, I just got some used books I'll talk about another time), look back at the last two blogs I put up. You could do the same exercise with any of the clothes in Rachel Clark's show. It doesn't matter what they did, it's what you think you can do. Note that jacket with photos of Italy fused on the front. At least I think that's what it is. Interesting new idea whether or not that is what she actually did.

Where do you find how-tos on these techniques? That's a major topic for another time. You do have to learn about adding fabric for tucks and other manipulations, how to do various kinds of applique, etc. You might start with Colette Wolff's The Art of Manipulating Fabric, and you should also already have some sewing bible on your bookshelves, like the one from Vogue or Reader's Digest. More on these another time too.

My great apologies to all the events I have missed advertising. I'm in grief counselling now, getting a lot of really needed help that way, and learned that I'm in another stage where it's hard to focus and write. As you see, the classwork is helping me heal slowly. I thought I was fine, just keeping to myself. But I now see that I was shielding myself from various forms of pain. One of them is the fact that people around you don't want to hear what you're going through and prefer that you not talk about it. So once again, hooray for grief counselling. I recommend it to you if you're going through the same as I am. Contact the hospital or hospice near you. Until next time, Rosalie

Rachel Clark's Exhibit, Part 2, and more

2010-03-20T19:59:00.000-07:00

This is part 2 of Rachel Clark's artwear show held at Back Porch Fabrics in Pacific Grove, CA. Please look back to the last post to see Part 1. No matter how carefully I arrange the pages and the photographs, and check and double check in their Preview format, I can depend on things shifting when I finally publish the blog. I probably need to learn more HTML to control spacing. In the meantime, I'll repeat the image where the name got cut off and then continue with more of the show. Thank you again to Jean Dunn for taking these photos and to Rachel Clark for putting together the exhibit.

But first, some Bits & Pieces of Artwear News
* Go to this site for an excellent look in sewing with men's ties. I like seeing them on the bias. Looks like draping is a bit of a problem with all the seams adding stiffness, but still think it's a stunning look--the best I've ever seen made from ties. http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=22348562

* Katherine Tilton is Marcy Tilton's sister. Now she too is writing for Threads magazine and creating Vogue patterns. She's also having a show in Minnesota and takes those tours to Paris with Marcy. Read all about it:
http://www.katherinetilton.com/index.php?cid=445&

* I used to buy Selvedge magazine, waiting to get some real nitty gritty sewing details. I discovered the articles were rather shallow, and what was really interesting to me was all the advertising. It's great to find so many inspiring websites, however, I don't need to be paying $20-25 per issue to see the same ads. I still get their marketing emails and thought the site they mentioned would interest you too: http://www.burdastyle.com/

* Rachel Clark put some great photos from The Eye Of The Beholder, Alaska Fiber Festival Fashion Show 2010, up on Facebook. The ladies really went all out with fantasy ideas. These garments remind me more of the WOW show in New Zealand than the old Bernina Fashion Show. Bravo ladies! Unfortunately I discovered that the url I saved doesn't work and you have to sign in as a member. If you're on Facebook you might be able to look around for Rachel's post. In the meantime there is another set of photos online: http://picasaweb.google.com/roxanestoner/#

And now, back to the show from Pacific Grove, CA!

Can you see that this says Midnight in Moscow by Karen Boutte?

Some folks made a quilt to match the garment; I'm assuming that's Vicky's quilt in the photo. If not, I'll let you know with my next posting.

Please let me know if I missed anyone or mislabelled any photos. Now I have a real sense of what's involved in posting so many photos. Please note that everyone maintains their own copyright so please don't be tempted to duplicate their work.

I look forward to hearing about the techniques used in these garments. If you want to tell me more, please send me an email (find it in profile or via Google). If you've been to a show and have garment photos to share, please give me a shout and I'll put them up if I can--I do need to get permission from the organizer of the exhibit. Thanks Rachel! Till next time, stay well. Rosalie

Getting a Lift from Artwear

2010-03-18T03:07:00.000-07:00

I am still kind of ditzy and foggy, working to accept that I have to create a new lifestyle, and trying to figure out what it should be. In the meantime, Art You Wear awaits. First, a few announcements, and then I have a flock of photos from Rachel Clark's last exhibit. I wanted to keep the show whole, but that's a lot of photos--too much for some computers. I'll break it down into several sets, one set every day or two, so come on back after you're seen today's update.

Bits & Pieces

Style 2010 is the fabulous art-to-wear sale and show taking place this year at the Palo Alto Art Center (Palo Alto, CA) on April 24th. For more information, please go to: www.paacf.org/style. This note courtesy of Diane Master, Empress of Style! I will try to remember to put up photos from last year's show. It's always wonderful!

The next Vionnet Class will be an in-depth intensive for textile artists at the Textile Art Center In Minneapolis, as part of the Surface Design Association meeting there in early June, 2010. It will be hands-on draping and focus on using art fabrics in the Vionnet Way. News courtesy of The Center for Pattern Design www.centerforpatterndesign.org

Next November Sandra Ericson of The Center for Pattern Design will present Vionnet, the Art of the Cut (including lots from the recent Paris show) at the De Young Museum, San Francisco, in their Saturday morning lecture series sponsored by the Textile Arts Council. More on this later when I edit the fall version of their newsletter.

Speaking of the Textile Arts Council at the de Young Museum in San Francisco, more interesting programs are on schedule: April 17, 10 am--Judith Content moderates a panel of textile artists who have successfully maintained a fiber business over many years. They will answer questions about finding inspiration, how to manage in poor economic times, etc. One of the panelists is Charlotte Bird who some years ago wrote a book about quilted garments, Sew A Work of Art: Inside and Out. I just bought myself a copy so I'm eager to meet and hear her. It's funny, when the book came out I thought the jackets uninspiring, and now she has exactly the information that I want. Check her out on Amazon and Google. The May 22 program is fiber art artist Sha Sha Higby talking about her travels and sources of inspiration. I will announce more details in another update.

SAIC: Fashion 2010, Friday, May 7
Nick Cave, professor and chair of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago's Fashion Design Department, announced that SAIC's 76th annual fashion show is coming up. For the first time, the fashion show takes place in the critically acclaimed Renzo Piano-designed Griffin Court of the Art Institute of Chicago's Modern Wing, marking the return of SAIC's annual fashion show to the Art Institute of Chicago for the first time in 15 years. Fashion and art lovers from across the nation will have the opportunity to enjoy a spectacular runway show featuring cutting-edge garments by the next generation of up-and-coming designers who have themed their designs around Piano's stunning architecture. News courtesy of the Center for Pattern Design.

New e-Zine from Quilts Inc.
I'm quoting Kerry Bresenhan, President: "We decided to create an electronic magazine that would celebrate not only the great friendships and bonds forged today among quilters worldwide, but feature fun, fast-paced articles, guest columns, quirky facts, and information that you won’t find anywhere else—all at the click of a mouse! We also wanted to design it in a way that reflects the editorial content—with a lot of zippy colors and graphics that aren’t locked-in to a set format or style. We want the freedom to be, well, free! I hope you enjoy the first issue, as well as the upcoming quarterly editions." To get your copy, send an email to: friendsatfestival@quilts.com.

I look forward to future issues. Right now Kerry has no plans for more wearable art fashion shows like the Bernina Show. She asked anyone with ideas for what we should do next, to send them to her. This e-zine as it stands in the first issue, feels mostly like a marketing tool. But let's see what future issues bring, and in the meantime I'm wracking my brains on how to get more wearable art back into the picture.

Ethnic Techniques in Contemporary Clothes

Do you remember me describing Rachel Clark's artwear challenge last spring? I was working on a vest derived from Polish techniques and traditions. I showed you the imperfect embroidery I did. I never did get much farther than selecting the black fabrics, piecing the skirt, and planning the flower design for the bodice. It was something for which I needed chunks of time and my husband was becoming more needy by the day. I will finish it one day because my whole cultural background is tied up in it. I've done all this research, I want to show a result. Besides, it's sitting where I look at it every day and I'm starting to get sick of it. Which means I'll do a lot more to it.

In the meantime, others finished their garments and the show went up at the Back Porch Fabrics store in Pacific Grove ww w.backporchfabrics.com. I was in no condition to go to the show so I asked Jean Dunn if she would share her photos with us. I thank Jean for this major effort and present them to you here. I hope I kept the right names with the correct garments. I tried to do closeups but many of them became too blurred. But that's also ok because it means you'll want to see the real thing. Rachel is looking for more avenues to put up the exhibit so let her or me know if you have ideas to share. I'm hoping she will be able to get them into PIQF this year or next.

I got comments from Jack Brockette and Jean Dunn when I was talking to them. If others offer me more, I'll write them up in another update. Meanwhile, enjoy what you see. The goal was to use one technique from a culture, in a jacket or long vest, that would be recognizable as coming from that culture. We don't have real closeups so I can't be sure of the techniques, but it's fun to see what people made. Forgive me if the sizes of the photos are wonky. I can see I need more study of how to use Photoshop.

The Kurta is among the most basic of garments in India. Jean Dunn created texture on the Kurta fabric by rubbing gold Shiva Paintstiks® over a Rubbing Plate®. The blocks were then machine pieced. The resulting yardage was machine quilted to the lining before constructing the Kurta. Rosemary Eichorn’s machine technique was the inspiration for constructing the shisha mirrors and attaching them to the garment.

Pojagi is a form of Korean patchwork. When in the hands of Jack Brockette, it is hand dyed silk organza with 1/8" French seams. " It was so much fun to work with all the different reds. I even found some small scraps from old Fairfield garments. What fun that was! Another technique is to use the new wash-away stabilizer that sticks to the fabric--it is clear and works great for embroidery on silk. Do a piece and hold the steam iron just above the silk; the wash-away shrinks. Makes very interesting designs in the silk. Go to the "Copper Shade Tree Gallery" web site http://www.coppershadetree.com/the_art_in_fiber.php and look at the fiber show. Twenty-fourTexas Art Quilters with work that was made just for the show. Everyone made a 12 x 12 piece stretched canvas with fiber 10 x 10 on top. They published a book of the pieces.

Don't forget to come back for more of Rachel Clark's exhibit. Till then, stay well! Rosalie

Life Goes On

2010-01-16T02:27:00.000-08:00

Tonight I've sorted through photos of my honey, and so I can update Art You Wear and Me. Actually this time I'm going to mostly update the Me part. It's been the hardest time of my life. John was lucid and talking on Christmas Day so I got to hear about his love once again and he about mine. By next day the doctors were saying they couldn't do more for him, but I kept hoping. By New Years we knew his body was not healing and couldn't sustain itself. He died on January 5, 2010. He didn't like to be photographed, he didn't think he added anything of value to the world--I heard it all a million times. He was proof of how alcohol destroys the body and the brain. So here is the last photograph. Interesting that it was also the last time my Dad dressed up in his suit, and the last time mom and dad and John and I were together and in celebration. Dad died a little over a year ago and John wasn't all that far behind.

I am bereft, but also hanging in there. I know I have to take care of myself because the previous weeks had been gruelling. I did a lot of driving back and forth to the hospital, three hours round trip often in thick fog. And just the loss is enough to do you in. My family were not available to give me physical support so I had to be strong. Fortunately the cats and birds kept me grounded.

I photographed the cats for John so he could see how they were looking. He blew them kisses. The first one is his cat Muffin.

The second one is my old feral tomcat, Chessie.

I assume you all recognize kitten Lolalee Lucy-fur. She's five months old now.

That same day I heard noises outside in the back yard. Two bucks were jousting.

But the minute they saw me it was "Oh look, mom is here! She might have apples!" I did.

I had to go to the mortuary on my birthday. I didn't mind, it was one more thing to do for him. But then I decided I needed to do something for myself as well. We were married 40 years and in that time I couldn't have a dog. I grew up having chihuahuas. I drove up to the animal shelter and found me a sweet, timid, abused chihuahua. La Paloma is a delight. She wants to please so we've worked out the potty thing. The most amazing part is that this little creature wants to be in charge and has tamed Lolalee overnight. I can't believe it--she actually behaves or else La Paloma goes after her and nips. It's exactly what Lolalee needed to settle her down. She's training me too, starts begging me to go to bed at 8 pm. No matter what I do, I now have an entourage, one cat and one dog. Along with caring for the birds, I'm constantly busy.

What I'm hoping is that soon I'll be able to settle into a routine where I can sew for chunks of the day. Maybe after I settle all the paperwork. My life has changed drastically and yet with the animals I'm still on the same schedule. I'm looking forward to writing about wearable art again. I stopped at Joanns on Monday and picked up a dark purple batik to make a jacket. It reflects how bleak I felt. My mom was adamant about wearing black after dad died. I have a lot of black clothes but don't want to climb into depression, so I went for the dark purples. But that was Monday. Yesterday I came across the black sweatshirt I had cut up the front so he could wear something warm in the ambulance. Now it needs to become a jacket for me. As you see, it didn't take long for me to travel beyond darks. These are just dollar fabrics from Walmart but should do for appliques.

Before all this started with John, I was shopping on eBay. I don't remember how I found them. I've been bidding on kimono pieces from Quest Japan ever since. The fabric is beautifully ironed but does smell musty. Their wonderful photos are exactly what you get.

I'm hoping to mix these pieces with smaller pieces of silk kimono bought over the years, and turn them into a Kimono-style jacket. Book reviews coming up soon! cheers, Rosalie

Happy Holidays to All!

2009-12-21T02:59:00.000-08:00

I just got two wonderful books to review for you but my heart's not in it. I think my husband is dying. In 5 days he's shown barely any improvement. He was airlifted to critical care in a bigger hospital and despite technology and modern medicine, he shows signs of hidden infection and his body isn't working. I'm exhausted from taking care of the critters and then making the 3 hour round trip to see him. But I'd do anything if I knew it would help him. I tell you this in case he doesn't turn around and I'm too busy and too sad to write for you for a while. I'm on Facebook if you want to write to me. You can also get me at rosekcooke at aol dot com. Thank goodness the hospital has a lovely creche and beautifully decorated Christmas trees. I sit there every evening and so the season isn't passing me by entirely. Blessings of the season to you all! Rosalie

Art Quilting Feeds Artwear

2009-12-09T03:20:00.000-08:00

Two Inspiring DVDs by Barbara Olson and Barbara Shapel
The folks at Ninepatch Media sent me two DVDs. You might remember the article in the archives about how they make their dvds. I don't have time to sit long enough to watch them in their entirely now, so I thought I'd give them 5 minutes each. Yah, right! I had to remind myself to stop and turn them off because I was fascinated. First was Barbara Olson presents Jumpstart Your Creativity. My reaction to Barbara Olson, whose work has intimidated me so much over the years: so that's how she does it! That's not so hard! And it sure is a burst of freedom to work her way. Of course if you're like me you'll ponder each fabric that you apply and never get done. She's one of those people that has a special talent at combining prints and colors, and in designs that are truly art in any medium. But maybe I could pick fabrics with my eyes closed and just add them (only kidding). I can see doing this on the back of a coat or jacket and on the front too, then cutting it up the middle. This is definitely a chance to play and see what happens when you simplify her technique. Her DVD includes a PDF file of her Wild Child pattern so you can practice what she teaches. If you don't know who Barbara Olson is: http://www.barbaraolsonquiltart.com Her work will knock your socks off!

The second DVD is Barbara Shapel presents The Art of Machine Quilting. She explains how she taught herself machine quilting over a period of 4 years. She didn't know all the rules--like don't cross a seam more than once. So she teaches what she's figured out. This is another person teaching us new creative ways to work. It's all inspiring and interesting. I have to spend more time with this Barbara too so that I can internalize her ideas and use them. Small point that becomes big for me was to watch Barbara prepare for quilting--how she slides the quilt under her arm and positions her body. Her work is striking too! Have a look at her gallery: www.barbarashapel.com

Go to www.ninepatchmedia.com to order your copies. There's nothing quite like highly creative women to get your juices flowing!

72 Ways Not to Stipple or Meander
Dijanne Cevaal writes a blog about her experiences, with dyeing and particularly with sewing and quilting her pieces http://origidij.blogspot.com. You really should take the time to read her blog and look through the archives. Obviously she's travelled to exotic places that have brought special flavors to her work. I'm talking about the vases, the pomegranates, the colors, and themes that make me think of Morocco and Egypt and Syria. When you look closely, even on a computer screen, you'll see the fine quilting she does to enhance her fabric "pictures." Dijanne has put together two self-published books about her quilting designs: 72 Ways Not to Stipple or Meander and 72 More Ways Not to Stipple or Meander. You can also get them on CD which costs less. I got my copies the other night and had to look right away. I tend to quilt with any design that evolves as I move the fabric in the sewing machine. But Dijanne has given me some great ideas that stretch my horizons. Not only do I want to use some of these for quilting, knowing they will add a richness to my work, but also I can see that I could create new fabric for garments. Instead of painting on designs, I could stitch them on the surface. I'm quite intrigued by the effects. She also has a cd about working with Lutradur. That's next on my list. Dijanne is in the process, or has just moved to France for a year. So if you don't get an immediate response, be aware that she's in transit and in transition, but she did tell me she has prepared to fill orders for the CDs no matter where she is.

More Whiffs Glimmers & Left Ouevres
Another blog I read regularly is http://morewgalo.blogspot.com More Whiffs Glimmers & Left Ouevres written by Deb Lacativa. I get a kick out of her wit and the whimsical art she stitches by hand. Deb dyes fabric--any kind of fabric that comes her way. She experiments and that stimulates me to try things outside the box. But she stimulates me another way. Once in awhile I order scrap bags from Deb. It's a wonder how by holding the scraps someone else has dyed and cut, you learn something. I haven't sewn down my latest foray through her fabrics, but there were all kinds of bits and pieces that broke some of my barriers when I set them into my design. I'll show you when I get them stitched. I'm thinking of doing them by hand like Deb does.

Yvonne Porcella Lecture
As I mentioned before, I've become editor of the Textile Arts Council newsletter and as such I'm privy to their upcoming program. http://www.textileartscouncil.org I don't want to steal their thunder but I do want you to know that Yvonne Porcella is going to lecture about the development of the art quilt. I suppose that means she likely won't be lugging her kimonos to display on that stage, but Yvonne makes fabulous wearable art so you can't help but learn by hearing about her work and that of others. The lecture starts at 10 am at the de Young Museum, Koret Auditorium, January 16 in San Francisco. As an added treat, look at her wearable art here: http://yvonne.porcella.ws/quilts/wearables

Fiberarts Magazine
Today I got my copy of the annual Wearable Art issue of Fiberarts magazine http://www.fiberarts.com. I haven't even looked inside. As usual the cover is eye-popping.
I had always thought to applique little bits of fabric onto foundation fabric of a garment. In the same or a gradation of the foundation color, this looks so rich! I've done it once with many multi-colored squares. It was the project I was working on when we decided to move so now it's a UFO in a bag in the studio. What surprised me was that I used multi-colored thread, hand-stitched the squares and all that work sort of disappears. I have to do more stitching with floss or I have to whip it down with machine stitching. Soon. But it still won't look as elegant and rich as that cover photo.

Of course I had to look inside the magazine, even briefly. There are some surprises. There are still articles for what I call the museum crowd, but what's this?--a small competition for fibers--felting etc. Hmm, and then there's a purse with patchwork applique. That's unusual for this magazine. There were even how-to instructions on how to care for vintage clothing and how to do reverse applique. Now that is very different. So I went to the front and I see that Patricia Bolton who co-founded Quilting Arts magazine with her husband, is now Editorial Director of Fiberarts. I presume she at least influenced editorial decisions. I was going to drop my subscription to Fiberarts. Now I'll stick around to see what happens.

Slav European Art Books
I've been paging through the eBay site of Slav European Art Books. I've mentioned Jan's bookstore before. I have gotten to page 17 twice and by that time my eyes give out. I need to be able to see the rest of his pages because there are such riches there. It's like going to a library to do research, only few libraries have this wealth of information about costumes and embroideries in one place, I'm pretty sure. I've been stopping only at embroidery books and mostly only Polish ones--not Greece, Turkey, China, Japan, India, and barely Russia or the various countries of the former USSR. He provides sample photos/pages from these books and when you look at so many, you can't help but get a sense of the cultures. Imagine when everyone made and wore a national costume complete with traditional embellishments and adornments. I can't help noticing what's the same and what's different. I wonder why some of the countries are heavy on using cross-stitch, and others have many more designs heavily filled in with satin stitch. Things to find out. I suggest you spend some time at www.slaveuropeanartbooks.com for some rich cultural lessons or at his store on e-Bay. You're going to want some of these books!

J Hittle Wholesale Sewing Supplies
I've discovered a discount place for notions: J Hittle Wholesale Sewing Supplies
www.Jhittlesewing.com. No doubt there are others but this is what I found readily. I get an email every week listing what is discounted for the week. Sometimes I find things I didn't know existed. Other times I find what is no longer in local stores--like large black hooks to close my vest. Sometimes you have to buy in quantity, but as long as I'm paying shipping, I'd just as soon get a lifetime supply of something practical. This time I found Mesh Transfer Canvas from Clover. I finally tried the old copying trick where you trace a design onto netting, lay the net on the fabric and trace with chalk, thus transferring the design. It's a little rough though it works if details aren't fine. This sheet of plastic with lots of tiny holes looks to be more stable than the net. I'll try it out soon.

Top Down Sweaters
Someone asked me about top-down knitting and I pulled out a book I'd gotten from That Patchwork Place www.martingale-pub.com. Top Down Sweaters, Knit to Fit from Top to Bottom. Doreen L. Marquart. Martingale & Co, 20205 144th Ave. NE Woodinville, WA 98072-8478. ISBN 978-1-56477-697-6 The patterns in this book are basic and practical. A couple have the wow factor for me. When and if I finally sit down to knit, it has to be a challenge--I hate knitting miles of plain "fabric." I especially like puzzle patterns, and there are at least a couple of them in this book. I'd like to try them via crochet too, The book incudes a capelet, variations on pullovers with textured designs appearing toward the waist, vests, sweaters, and my favorite, a modular jacket in garter stitch. Knitting techniques and assembly instructions start the book. The more I look at it, the more I'm tempted to try something there. Till next time, enjoy the season! Rosalie

Goodbye to Emma Allebes

2009-11-23T03:29:00.000-08:00

Emma Allebes, Artist and Bernina Fashion Designer
Our dear Emma Allebes, an unforgettable Fairfield and Bernina fashion show designer, died of leukemia on October 6, 2009. So much of my stuff is still packed away, but I found a photo album and there was Emma. I think this might have been taken in the year 2000 at the wonderful quilt show we used to have in Marin county. Emma had requested that flowers at her service be tied with black and white checked ribbons. It's serendipity that I have her photo in those checks!

I always remember her NY taxi cab outfit, and the pearly queen (like they have in England). I hope she enjoyed sewing on buttons! She and I met at the party after a Bernina show, both of us feeling a bit shy and out of place, so we spent much of the evening talking and from then on delighted in running into each other. I won't go on, you can read wonderful things about Emma at emmaallebes.blogspot.com. What a wonderful idea for her daughter Shenna to put up the blog so her wide circle of friends and family could come together in thought.

Here is the jacket that won Emma a red ribbon that year in Marin. Her work was impeccable. Look at the variety of techniques she put into a cohesive whole. At first you just see the intricate, traditional piecing but it is combined in such a variety of sizes and blocks and fabric variations, that it does not look very traditional. It doesn't look bulky or bumpy, and then you see the manipulations with various prairie points and beads.

Always lovely work! I will try to post more photos of her work as I collect them.

More of My Ethnic Embroidery
I stopped working on my vest. Between cats and a new job and the caretaking life, I just didn't have the time or energy to work on the vest for Rachel Clark's exhibit. I had done all that research and all that planning and drawing, but I didn't have chunks of time to work on it. At first it was the sciatica that brought me down. It was too painful to stand at the cutting table, all summer long. I didn't cut anything this year while the sun was shining outside. But I did go to physical therapy and now the pain is gone and the energy is back but I'm out of time. Still, I keep plugging away, hoping to finish something, exhibit or not. My plans have evolved to where I'm no longer thinking in terms of the traditional Polish beaded little vest with peplum. This is good, it just took time to come out.

For now, here's a photo of my embroidery over waste canvas and the end result. Getting the canvas was hard enough. Then I didn't want to take the time to baste it down (time being of the essence) so you see I pinned it down to the hooped fabric. I'm stitching on black silk noil. The thread is DMC 5 Pearl Cotton, and I'm using 8.5 threads to the inch waste canvas.

All this worked just fine though I think a finer thread would have been even better. What didn't work well was my mind. The chart wasn't totally clear and I made mistakes. Next time I will chart on graph paper. That way I'll know when a square refers to a cross stitch and when it means to make an open square. Live and learn.

The Holidays are Coming
In the spirit of the holiday season being upon us, I thought I wouldn't so much do in-depth reviews as let you know what has excited me out there.

The Knitter's Handbook
has been out for a number of years but I think well worth mentioning. It is a small book that you can tuck into your purse or knitting bag for quick reference. There are clear little drawings and short explanations. There are things here I didn't even know I need to know. Just a helpful little book when you can't get to your big reference books. I received it from the people who put out Knitter's Magazine. The Knitter's Handbook, XRX Books, Inc., PO Box 1525 Sioux Falls, South Dakota. 2005. ISBN 1-893762-21-1. www.knittinguniverse

Now why have I been thinking about knitting when I haven't been able to knit or crochet in years (worked at it too hard and hurt my hands)? It all started with spring photos of little lambs being bottle-fed and twins in the field with their mothers. I was hooked on this blog about a farm. getting-stitched-on-the-farm.blogspot.com. Soon I discovered that I've known about Kristen for years. This week I gifted myself with Color by Kristen. It arrived yesterday and oh my, am I glad! It practically forces me to start knitting again.

When you read Kristen's blog (go back through the archives) you learn how she travelled the world and collected ethnic textiles. You should see the socks she picked up in Greece! These textiles inform her work and this book really shows it off. Wait until you see the kimono shaped jacket! This is Fair Isle knitting and she promises to teach us an easy way to do it. I won't spoil the effect. It's colorful, it looks intricate, it definitely looks ethnic, and I love it. The rest of the book is a mix of mittens, tea cozies, children's and adults' sweaters and slippers, scarves and pillows. It's all bright and happy, just my cup of tea! Colors by Kristen, How to Design Your Own Beautiful Knits by Kristen Nicholas. Sixth&Spring Books, 233 Spring St., New York, NY 10013.2009. ISBN 978-1-933027-83-8. www.sixthandspringbooks.com If you want an autographed copy, go to Kristen's blog to place your order. She and the farm would appreciate it.

I have much more to tell you about but Lolalee still wakes me up too early and I'm tired. I'm the new part-time editor of the newsletter for the Textile Arts Council at the de Young museum in San Francisco. It fits so well with my own interests! I'm also editing a quilt pattern for a first time designer, so my time is full. I'll leave you tonight with the latest photo of our 3 month-old kitten, and how fall looks in Hidden Valley Lake.

It rained last week so the grasses have started to grow even as the leaves are falling down. Till we meet again, Rosalie

Artwear-related Sales and Great Viewing

2009-11-09T16:11:00.000-08:00

Quality Fabric Sale!
Tonight I'm doing a bit of artwear catch-up. First, a fabulous fabric sale. The online store is closing and what's left is 75% off. I was too late for the silk dupioni and many other fine fabrics, but I left you some of what's left and there's plenty in colorways that don't appeal to me. I'm considering going back for the cotton baptiste. They're going to send what's left to jobbers so hurry and give your stash a Christmas present. www.buttonsnboltsfabrics.com

Kayla Kennington, Bernina designer extraordinaire
Kayla Kennington was at PIQF so we had a chance to chat. She's had a lot going on in her life so she hasn't had time or energy to put up a photo of her latest pattern. But here it is, the Kwan Yin Kimono, #511. I brought it home, had a good look, and can't wait to sew it up. The drawing isn't very clear but it's another of her Modular Design Garments--a type of kimono that ties at the side. Gussets help create that floating points look at the sides. It's more of Kayla's signature style which is to use rectangles of fabric and combine them with little thread tacks (and sometimes beads) to create garments. I'm not explaining this as beautifully as it looks, but if you read Threads magazine, you would have read about the technique ages ago, also her fabric collage technique that creates new fabric yardage from silk scraps. (I tried it and it isn't as easy as it looks!) Kayla had to stop dyeing her fabrics because she was having a reaction to the dyes. Now she has found metal-free acid dyes that don't harm her--Greener Shades. I bought a batch because I'm always aware of the need for safety in using dyes. I especially don't use them anywhere near my cats or birds. These are for animal and other protein fibers and nylon so I won't be using them on my cottons. You can order the pattern and dyes directly from her. Go to her website to get an eyeful! www.kaylakennington.com

High Fiber Under Five
The San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles is running its annual fundraiser, High Fiber Under Five, an invitational benefit art sale, November 3-8. This is your one chance to see and acquire amazing works from some of fiber arts' luminaries. Go to their site to see the details and to see the wearable art by Carol Lee Shanks, Caryne Finlay Mount, and Latifa Medjdoub. Carol Lee always surprises me with her designs. I've been to her Open Studio and she gets mobbed. What looks "different" on the hanger is quite lovely on the body. I always remember her white clothes so was surprised to see these indigo pieces. And as for Caryne, I was there when she created those pieces for a one-woman show. Mostly Caryne works with old kimono which she reworks into intriguing coats. But for that show Caryne created the "kimono" shapes from scratch. The multi-colored patchwork coat she first hand-dyed the fabrics. The white one she crocheted. She worked like a fiend, using all the techniques many of us know and barely use. I wonder if I can find my photos from that exhibit--packed away somewhere. In any case, here's your chance to buy one of these creations for yourself. www.sjquiltmuseum.org

Holly Badgley
Yet another sale--Art Reception, Vintage and Ethnic Textile Show & Sale at Sync Salon, 170 Columbus Ave at Pacific, San Francisco. Monday November 16, 5 to 9 pm. RSVP 415-397-1078 or syncsalon@gmail.com. This is a regular art event. I don't know all the participants but I do know Holly Badgley. Fabulous handpainted coats and jackets. I hadn't seen her in a few years and my reaction to what's online is that it's better than ever! www.hollybadgley.com

Coco Chanel
Last month I went to a one-woman show about Coco Chanel. I had no idea what to expect, but because I knew mom is a big fan of Chanel, I took her for a night out. She was enthralled! And I was so enchanted by what Annette Baldwin can do on stage, that I want to see it again. Annette Baldwin is a historical actress which means she researches characters she wants to portray, writes the play, and then takes it on the road herself. With nothing more than a simple stage setting of chair and table, she gives us a sense of who the person was. We hear Chanel's opinions and about her attitudes, both about life and her fashion ideas. All this from a woman dressed in a Chanel suit. Then Baldwin presents slides from that life, specifically the clothes Chanel designed. Finally, Baldwin has slides to demonstrate the effect Coco Chanel has had on fashion through the years. We all wear Chanel now. I really liked that final part--and then there was a Q & A session that was also very informative. Annette Baldwin works via her company, Moments in Time. She knows fashion because she worked for Lord & Taylor for many years. I can't remember for sure, but I think she said she used to go to Fashion Week and such, so she was highly immersed in fashion. I recommend her production to wearable art groups, to fashion groups like the ASG, and to fashion departments in schools. She would do well on a large stage also, but I want you to know that this would be suitable for a presentation at a meeting. www.staginghistory.com

Marcy Tilton November Newsletter
Go to Marcy Tilton's website and look for her November newsletter (listed on left side). Marcy talks about her long list of Vogue patterns and recommends fabrics you might use for each one. These are the fabulous, quality fabrics that she sells on her site. She also talks about how she has embellished or enhanced her versions of her own patterns. Interesting reading and lots of wearable art ideas--I have to come back when I can spend the time. I bought her most recent pattern and hope the stretch fabric I have will take stencils. I don't want a shiny all black jacket, but an all-over handmade print would be fun. www.marcytilton.com

New Vogue Patterns for Artwear

2009-10-20T00:00:00.000-07:00

Vogue Patterns is selling their newest patterns online for $5.99 for two days. (If you miss this one, you'll get another chance soon.) Now that they've turned to new and avant garde designers, I'm paying closer attention to what works for wearable art. The sale is just today and tomorrow at www.voguepatterns.com Here's what caught my eye, not in any special order:

Vogue 1142: Issey Miyake top and pants. The top is loose and pleated, perfect for summer or evening and would be further enhanced if you use hand-dyed or hand-painted fabric, stencilled it, added some beads or crystals at the neck, or even added embroidery to the fabric. It could be overkill to do more to this pattern but if you want to enter a wearable art competition, close to overkill is the name of the game.

Vogue 1146: Koos van den Akker coat. As is his style, he has broken up the interior of a simple pattern with circles and lines. The basic coat has a high yoke. Those of us who like patchwork or applique get guidance on placement of pieces. I have yet to make one of his garments, but I will because they do speak to me. I know if I don't buy the pattern, I'll wish later that I had it so that went into the cart.

Vogue 1135: Chado Ralph Rucci. It could be that you need a lithe body to wear this black asymmetrical dress, but maybe the details will allow for much. It's made from fabric with four-way stretch. The big deal is the horizontal shaped tucks sewn in all the way down the dress. I didn't buy the pattern but am so tempted just because I'd love to try it. This is the kind of dress that's a winner on its own but would be great for under a show-stopping coat or jacket.

Vogue 1144: Chado Ralph Rucci jacket and pants. Yes, from the front it looks like a mix of Chanel jacket/Mao jacket/military jacket. It has a high collar and four patch pockets. The big deal for me is that both the front and back are padded with batting. So first, if you like to make clothing with batting, here's a stylish pattern that is very different from the usual quilted clothing. Second, he makes this in silk doupioni. I figure the purpose of the batting is to keep some stiffness in the body which protects the perfectly smooth sheen of the doupioni. I doubt he was thinking bulk or warmth. Then he has lovely curved seams in the back. I just had to see what was going on here. The collar and sleeve bands are channel-quilted. I was also interested in the pants. They're narrow with a seam front and back. In front the seam opens in a curved line over the foot. Years ago I learned that the best fitting pants had seams front and back. Too much detail here for surface design unless you work within the design. BTW he also adds hand-picked stitching around the pockets, etc.

Vogue 8626 and Vogue 8616: Vogue now has patterns that offer A,B,C, and D cups. I went for the princess seam coat because it's one of those perfect designs for timeless fashion. I can do anything I want to the fabric, add any textures, and they won't be lost in the coat. It has a pleated back but I can eliminate that if surface design demands it. I want the princess seam for 4 cup sizes so I don't have to mess with adjustments much. Then I also picked the t-shirt with a very high neck. It's different, yet harking back to high necked tops I wore in winter. I'm curious how they size this close-fitting shirt for a D cup.

Vogue 7975: Vogue also offers a Chanel-style jacket. Once I adjust the princess seams on the coat pattern, I'll expect to apply them to this jacket which comes only in B cup, and have a pattern ready to go for when I need something ultra-creative. I'm thinking of printing up some of my own fabric with dyes, stencils, and beads then sewing up a simple jacket like this one. Wait till you see my photos of Sylvia Polk's entry at PIQF. If she can do it, I can certainly try!

Vogue 1145: Lynn Mizono's pattern for a coat which is likely based on a circle. That's what she used to do and I loved it. They show only one way to wear it in the pattern graphic, but the photo shows a more exciting version. I remember she said her customers always taught her new ways to wear her designs. As to her other patterns, I bought them months ago--I wouldn't miss them for the world.

Vogue 8620: This is yet another jacket from Marcy Tilton. I like the shape of it, especially from the side view. Not sure what happens when I try to adjust the bust line. I figure I'll be lowering the high waist line. But what's special is this is the pattern where Marcy gets to teach how to do silk screen printing. Just as I was having to stop publishing my newsletter, Marcy was feeling out the idea of creating her own silk screens (excellent idea!). She has a lovely collection now--go see them at www.marcytilton.com. You will see the screens she uses on this pattern.

I'll be back here soon, just need to get photos found and organized. cheers, Rosalie

Shows to See (and Shop)

2009-10-16T01:31:00.000-07:00

"Signatures" Fashion Show and Champagne Luncheon will be held on Sunday, November 8, 2009, 12:30pm - 3:00pm, at the Palos Verdes Art Center, in Palos Verdes, CA (in the Los Angeles area). (postcard design by Justine Limpus Parish)
Justine Limpus Parish will be showing her Fall/Holiday Collection among 22 artists in this group show. Featured are elegant and unusual wearables from clothing, accessory, and jewelry designers. Special performance by swing and ballroom dancers will be part of the show which also includes a runway fashion show and designer boutique. Tickets: $35 - advanced purchase required
charge by phone - call PVAC 310-541-2479 Ext 302
www.artists-studio-pvac.com
I've seen photos from past shows as well as knowing several of the artists involved. This is quality, upscale wearable art! Hope you can go!

This is the weekend of both the International Quilt Festival in Houston and the Pacific International Quilt Festival in Santa Clara. Both have photos and lists of winners online so check their websites until you find it all. Houston is www.quilts.com. I didn't check but heard that they already are showing winning quilts and wearables. The wearables would be from the IQF show since the Bernina show is no more. I also wish they could show the garments from the luncheon where people like you and me are willing to show their work. Often this is how people progress to making Fairfield/Bernina garments--no telling what will replace that quality of show and garments. I like to watch the Houston videos of the shows. Not like being there but at least you have some sense of what you're missing.

PIQF in Santa Clara www.quiltfest.com had last year's winning wearables up today, and will eventually show this year's winners. I had a bronchitis and diabetic setback today so didn't leave the house, but plan to be there tomorrow, photographing as much as possible. Stay tuned for my take on it. I'll be missing Karen Boutte's fashion show where she rounds up various locals who make wearable art. I always like to go to see what people are making in the area but these days I have to be home earlier. If you're there and take pictures, or even if you could just tell me about it, I would really appreciate it so I can share the evening with everyone. You can find me on Facebook if you don't find my email address via the blog.

Add Color to Our Lives
Since I was at home today on a rainy day when I wished I could be out shopping, I spent a bit of time daydreaming at the computer and found things of interest to us. There is a source out of Sag Harbor NY for Marimekko fabric and Unikko bedding etc. Check out the Textile Arts website: http://store.txtlart.com/info.html I love the tablecloths and the bedding fabrics and am tempted to get them for yardage. Oops, until I saw the price. Oh well. Maybe I can ask for a Christmas present of a yard of fabric ($42/yd). Love those huge blue and red flowers!

WOW in New Zealand
The 21st Montana World of WearableArt (WOW) Awards were announced on Friday, Sept. 25. They had 165 garments entered this year. The Supreme Montana WOW Award went to David Walker of Juneau, Alaska for his 17th Century ball gown "Lady Of The Wood." The piece is made entirely of mahogany and lacewood with 52 strips of maple and cedar veneer for the hooped skirt. The wig is made out of wood shavings. Walker is a carpenter who has been creating Wearable Art for ten years. I'm looking forward to learning more about him.

I Found WOW Photos!
I found photos, titled One Weird and Wearable Festival! David Walker's piece is among the 31 photos. Some of these designs are really worthy of note as garments. I loved some of the effects and styles. I look forward to finding more photos and getting some details. http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/travel/one-weird-and-wearable-festival/20091005-gj1b.html?selectedImage=30

As long as you're looking at this slide show from Australia, look at the menu below it to find photos from the Paris runways. If you haven't seen McQueen's egg-shaped 10" heels, here's your chance. Dangerous to walk in but certainly eye-catching. www.smh.com.au/photogallery/lifestyle/fashion/paris-fashion-classic-v-fantastic/20091007-gmu2.html

Lolalee aka Lucy-fur
As you see, Lolalee is right there with mom even when falling asleep. She's resting on a new book which is sitting on top of my box of new Jacquard Indigo dyes. Smart kitty! And yes, she does have tortoiseshell attitude! I tried to catch her when she droops in sleep but I caught her drifting off--close enough without tormenting her.

Of Artwear and Cats Too

2009-10-02T02:49:00.000-07:00

Book Review of Silk Unraveled
When my sweet cockatiel Moe is flopping around having a seizure, and when the new kitten Sammy shows symptoms of a fatal virus, I need to sit down and look at photos with intense color, to kind of match my intense feelings. Just such a book is Silk Unraveled, Experiments in Tearing, Fusing, Layering & Stitching by Lorna Moffat. Dragon Theads Ltd., 490 Tucker Drive, Worthington, OH 43085. ISBN#978-099641201-0-5 www.dragonthreads.com The cover drew me in and the photos inside made me sing. Somewhere I read a review of this book that said something like, "There's nothing new here--I've seen all this before." I too had a sense of deja vu but you have to look deeper. What you've seen before, particularly in British craft books, could be this author's work. Do I recommend this book? I do, for the color and for the encouragement to experiment with silk--as in don't treat it like a precious fabric. Does it have fresh, new ideas? Well, they were fresh and new techniques some years back, but I like being reminded that I haven't even tried them all. The projects here use torn silk, fused silk, reverse applique, and layered silk. Will this work for wearable art? Of course, almost every idea whether for pillows or quilts can be adapted one way or another. But in fact, Lorna presents an idea for a kimono design, and a reverse applique vest. I do like her designs which I will adapt by using smaller sizes. Although she shows us photos of ethnic designs that she found in her travels and that inspired her, these are her interpretations.

There are many ways to create new fabrics and textures using scraps. I can see elements of the Spirals & Flowers Throw as a jacket. Stunning in fact. I really like some of her designs--they're included for us to trace. I'm torn about the recommendation. If you don't like loose threads and raw edge applique, you might wonder why I like this book. Yes, that torn or raw-edge technique looks sloppy (especially for silk) although it's also part of a style that was and is still popular. I like most of the designs and wouldn't waste my silk threads--in other words I'm inclined to do applique that will protect the edges. I dislike satin stitching so maybe I'd go to turning under edges or using my favorite machine small-blanket stitch. It gives a different look but could be a preferable one--this is where you experiment and make it your own. I consider this book inspiring and offering designs for when I draw a blank. As to the instructions, Lorna uses some British terms most of us are used to (gilet for a type of vest). This isn't a book for beginners because it doesn't teach the basics, but anyone who wants to experiment could manage well enough with what's here. Great up-close photos, bright colors, rich variety of exotic designs, and encouragement to try all kinds of silks--that's what I like about this book!

Continued Sampling of Last Bernina Show Garments
Debi Kuennen-Baker, Bernina Designer
In my last post somehow I missed that I had a photo of the back of Debi Kuennen-Baker's jacket in my files. See my last post for views of the front. What Debi "asks" is do we have to have a dull, almost invisible undercollar on a big fabulous collar? Obviously Debi doesn't think so. I find her choice to be startling, but it does make you take notice and think. She also raises the issue of matching sleeves. I hadn't noticed the difference from the front. That makes this jacket even more unusual and interesting. I like how the rose embroidery on the back is somehow slimming and blends the print into the plain black. Meryl Ann Butler took and sent these photos from the Bernina Show at the Quilt Festival in Long Beach--please review my last post for details.

Sharon Sawa, Bernina Designer
This very basic shape is Sharon Sawa's coat. Pieced from black and white fabrics, she appliqued colorful floral designs with variegated thread satin stitched edges. To me it looks like Sharon used all-over freemotion quilting in a sawtooth motion.
I wish I had the official notes that came with these garments since I don't have immediate access to these designers. The tunic underneath looks like a drapey rayon. There is variegated thread trim alongside the zipper and a few beads at the top and bottom of the inset waistband. I think matching beads are placed on the neck binding as well. The print looks too big for short-me, but I'd like to make and wear something similar, with proportionally-sized appliques for my stature. Sorry, I don't have a back view. I was just thinking that if the appliques were much smaller, they wouldn't balance as well against the busy black and white background. They have to be larger to stand out and be proportionally sized. It goes back to Sandra Ericson's talk about proportions which roughly said means you want to think in thirds. These appliques should be a third larger than the largest print in black and white and I think they are. Just testing my own thoughts out on you. Do you agree with this theory?

Folkwear News for Autumn
Kate Mathews (kate@folkwear.com) sent out Folkwear News for Autumn. In case you're not yet a subscriber, I'm including her list of exhibits to see now, with a few added comments from me so that you won't miss some other good stuff. The news from Kate about Folkwear Pattens (www.folkwear.com) is that they're developing a new pattern for a hat from the early 20th century (something like what Diane Keaton wore early in the film Reds). Its companion pattern: #268 Metropolitan Suit, a walking suit with military styling to the jacket and a sailor look to the blouse; the high-waisted skirt is mid-calf with a partial overskirt. Kate also added a suggestion: the pattern #148 Black Forest Smock from last month doesn't say to stitch down the small pleats at center front and back neckline, but they like the way it looked!

Events to See or Websites Worth Visiting (courtesy of Kate Matthews, www.folkwear.com)
# Dress Codes: Clothing as Metaphor, featuring 36 artists, including Louise Bourgeois and Nick Cave, who use the idea and form of clothing to explore social and global issues in their work. Katonah Museum of Art, near historic Bedford, 44 miles north of Manhattan, through October 4. www.katonahmuseum.org.

# The Perfect Fit–Shoes Tell Stories, an exhibition that looks at how shoes can tell stories, addressing topics such as gender, history, sexuality, race, class, and culture. Fuller Craft Museum, in Brockton, Massachusetts (once known as the shoe capital of the world), through January 3, 2010. www.fullercraft.org. See also Chunghie Lee: My Cup Overflows through Oct.18, 2009 Chunghie Lee is known for her pojagi, wrapping cloths used also in quilts and clothing. Note the upcoming exhibit and workshop with Nancy Crow.

# Coat Couture: Inspiration to Creation, featuring Ruth Funk's contemporary wearable art and the global textiles that inspired her, including African mud cloth, Chinese embroidery, Panamanian molas, and Asian ikats. Ruth Funk Center for Textile Arts, in Melbourne, Florida, through December 12. http://textiles.fit.edu. See also the collection gallery. Three items but beautiful.

# Fashion in Bloom, an exhibition of garments that feature flower motifs from the museum's Fashion Arts Collection. Among the designers represented are Norman Norell, Callot Soeurs, and Givenchy. Indianapolis Museum of Art, through January 31, 2010. An online tour of the exhibition gives a 360-degree view of the installation. www.imamuseum.org. Go to Textile and Fashion Arts to see a small gallery.

# Contemporary Japanese Fashion shows the radically inventive designs of Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto in this exhibit of 1970s and 1980s garments from the collection of Mary Baskett, an art dealer who has collected and worn Japanese high fashion since the 1960s. Through April 11, 2010 at The Textile Museum in Washington, DC. www.textilemuseum.org www.textilemuseum.org. There's a lot to see here--this show is under "upcoming exhibitions" but look around at the rest. There's a symposium about the evolution of Japanese clothing on October 16-18. http://www.textilemuseum.org/symposium.htm See too Fabrics of Feathers and Steel: the Innovation of Nuno. I was fascinated in an exhibit years ago, by what these folks think up as "fabric." There is much of interest coming up!

# Art of the Samurai: Japanese Arms and Armor, 1156-1868, including weapons, equestrian equipment, banners, surcoats, and accessories such as fans and batons. October 21 through January 10, 2010. Also, Tibetan Arms and Armor from the permanent collection, including decorated armor and equestrian equipment from Tibet and related areas of Mongolia and China, dating from 8th to 20th century. Through fall of 2010. Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. www.metmuseum.org.

# Gazette du Bon Ton was an early 20th century periodical that brought couturiers and painters together to promote the fashions of the time. This exhibit positions actual garments from the museum's collection with its illustrated page from the Gazette, such as a sumptuous Paul Poiret coat with a Georges Lepape drawing. Through May 30, 2010. Visit the web site to see detailed views of the exhibited items. Also, Michael Kors Designs from the Wendy Zuckerwise Ritter Collection, celebrating the designer's 30th year in the fashion industry, through November 2. Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio. http://dept.kent.edu/museum. See also the exhibit of The Art of the Embroiderer. Fabulous! The exhibit is over but they have detail photos here worth studying.

# Calder Jewelry, featuring jewelry created by sculptor and mobile-maker Alexander Calder (1898-1976) that demonstrates the artist's love of abstraction. Includes necklaces, bracelets, brooches, earrings, and tiaras that were worn by friends, family, and 20th-century cultural icons. San Diego Museum of Art, through January 3, 2010. www.sdmart.org. Check out the Dragon Robes of China's Last Dynasty. The quizzes are fun.

# Aisle Style: 150 Years of Wedding Fashion features the bride and her dress, as well as accessories, men's garments, trousseau treasures, and photographs. The show also explores wedding traditions, from orange blossoms and blue garters to the magnificent white gown. Visit the web site to see photos of the amazing array of wedding fashions. The Charleston Museum, Charleston, SC, October 16, 2009 through September 6, 2010. www.charlestonmuseum.org. Great slideshow!

# High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and Haute Couture, exhibit of high-fashion garments by Bloomingdale's favorite designers that she donated to the museum over 30 years. Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Los Angeles, through December 13. http://fidm.edu. I of course welcome any additional information about Project Runway--you'll find it here.

# The Heights of Fashion: Platform Shoes Then and Now, a look at platform footwear styles from the 1930s to the present. On the web site is a slide show of 14 images from the exhibit that will definitely take you back in time. Mint Museum of Art, Charlotte , NC through May 30, 2011. www.mintmuseum.org.

# Madeleine Vionnet: Puriste de la Mode, a retrospective celebration of the important early 20th century French designer who revolutionized women's fashion through elegant draping and use of the bias cut. Musee de la Mode and du Textile, rue de Rivoli in Paris, France, through January 31. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr. Note in my earlier post that Sandra Ericson is going and offering to explain the show.

Crocheted Elf Slippers
I haven't been saying much about knitting and crochet even though I've been paying attention. I am so grateful to Interweave Press for the really fresh design ideas in their magazines. I also like Knitters and the Fons & Porter Knitting magazine, and of course the quality in Vogue Knitting. At first, when knitting hit it big again, all I could find were tired, recycled patterns. Books I hadn't seen in years were back on the stands. Some of them are still there, and some of the magazines are putting out the same old tired ideas. But Interweave and even Knitters caught my eye pretty quickly. I have lots of books to review on the subject, but not today. Instead I want to mention the pattern I found on Facebook. It's for crocheted slippers unlike any I've seen. These I've got to make!
The designer is from Chile, but provides some instruction in English and presents the pattern in chart form (universal language) so we can all try them. http://josefinayelamanecer.blogspot.com/2009/09/pantunflas-de-peter-pan.html

Show Schedule Reminder
I'm having a hard time getting to any shows this year. My husband isn't sure he can handle all the care and feeding of the pets in this house. I'm trying to convince him I could go to PIQF for one long day. We'll see. It's the 6 hours of driving there and back that kills me and my back. I hope you don't have obstacles and can go to any of these shows (and then please let me know what you saw and did so I can live vicariously through your experiences!). I do so miss going to Houston and some of the Sewing Expos. How else can you see what's new and what everyone is doing?

International Quilt Festival
Oct 14-18, 2009, Houston, TX
www.quilts.com

Pacific International Quilt Festival (PIQF)
Oct 14-18, 2009, Santa Clara, CA
www.quiltfest.com

AQS Quilt Show
October 28-31, 2009, Des Moines, IA
www.americanquilter.com

Original Sewing and Quilt Expo
November 5-7, 2009, Minneapolis, MN
www.sewingexpo.com

Original Sewing and Quilt Expo
November 12-14, 2009, Schaumburg, IL
www.sewingexpo.com

There must be others--please let me know so I can advertise them.

Why I Haven't Posted
I'm sorry I haven't written in so long, but time has really flown recently. First there was the wait for Mediacom to fix our internet connection. Two weeks and two visits later we had a new modem. Meanwhile I started physical therapy three times a week for whatever the problem is with my sciatic nerve. It's been a summer of pain and I can't lean over the cutting table. Then I met this little guy on my way to pick up the mail.
No one in houses nearby claimed he was theirs. First we fed him, next day off to the vet, and so started our three weeks of Sam Cooke on the run in the house. If I sat at the computer he chewed on my toes or licked my chin. If he wasn't asleep, I was babysitting and medicating. Eventually I took him outside on a leash. Some people stopped by the side of our road saying they thought I have their cat. Well, as a matter of fact I did, but the vet had said he'd been neglected. Long story short, two little girls had hiked over to get their kitty back so what could I do but hand him over--and drive them home but with admonishments to their mom that he needed much more healthcare. I even offered to help. I was worried about him. But once he was gone, I finally had time again to look around online and it looks to me like he has FIP which is fatal (a virus involving peritonitis). Broke my heart!! Meanwhile I was picking away at getting this post written.

Waste Canvas
Since I was so busy with Sammy and couldn't get any fabric cutting or embroidery or sewing done, I took the time to look around for waste canvas online. Amazon advertises it as something they bring in from Joanns. But if you go to the Joann's online catalog, they don't carry waste canvas. Then I found the Create for Less site: http://www.createforless.com. They sent me an email the same day saying they had shipped my order, and it was here in two days! I was impressed. I also ordered from their long list of clearance books. Check it out. I got great service at an excellent price.

Jane Sassaman Artwear
See what Jane Sassaman is doing with her fabric designs. I call this wearable art because it's interesting how she combines fabric patterns. http://sassaman.blogspot.com/

How to Fix a Broken Heart
Finally, here's Lolalee. I picked her out of a grocery cart in the heat last Friday evening. The little girls trying to give away the cats had sprayed them with water to keep them cool. Uh oh! First I said no, I'm too vulnerable, still hurting after losing Sammy. "Oh, ok, I'll just pick up one." Uh huh, I was done! My husband wasn't pleased. Lolalee went to the vet today, seems healthy, is only 6 weeks old (and was both unweaned and not potty trained!) and is a tortoiseshell. Some people feel that this type of cat has a personality all their own--feisty, hot-tempered, and possessive of their human. Well, the last bit has shown up. How does she trust me so much so soon? Every evening so far when I sit for the 10 pm news, this little being climbs up my legs, makes herself at home on my chest and takes a nap. Adorable! And she's learned to pose already!

Project Runway
I just thought of something. Tonight was yet another episode of Project Runway on tv and I don't really care who wins. It's not in a negative sense, it's just that I like the work most of them are doing and wish they could all win. Of course they will, one way or another. I get the sense that most of them land opportunities to grow. We're not having quite the histrionics and name-calling and drama queens and I'm fine with that. I would like to see more sewing, how they manage to get those details done and so fast (invisible help?) but all in all I'm enjoying the show. How about you? Thanks for reading, Rosalie

Two Bernina Garments and More of My Vest Plans

2009-08-24T12:40:00.000-07:00

Sampling of Last Bernina Show Garments
Bernina designer Meryl Ann Butler went to the International Quilt Show in Long Beach as Press, and on Sunday, as things were winding down, she took photos of the Bernina show garments on display for that day. She has offered us several of her photographs. I will spread them out across several blogs so as not to defeat older computers. It's exciting to see up close what we missed!

Debi Kuennen-Baker, Bernina Show Designer
The first coat is by Debi Kuennen-Baker. I'm a fan, have been gaga for many of her Fairfield and Bernina garments. She usually goes for the dramatic. This year's version is as bold as ever! Even though it "drowns out" the beautiful machine embroidered floral and scrollwork on the hips and lower sleeves, they're mostly over a black fabric so they don't disappear altogether.

I think the embroidery "lightens" the coat, modifying some of the hard edges of the graphic design. The collar is a collage of fabrics, ribbons, beads, and possibly fibrous Angelina. I do recognize the Sherrill Kahn fabrics and color combinations. I see crystals flashing from the area of the roses. The machine embroidered roses combine pink, purple, orange and yellow--very rich and beautiful. The body of the coat is quilted in multi-colored thread in a kind of swirl and flames pattern. This is a lady who likes pattern upon pattern! With all this going on, our eyes get a rest with the black and white binding around the collar. The black zigzag in the body is pretty busy because of the quilting and emboidery moving over it so that's why you don't get a rest there. I love that dramatic collar. Stunning coat! Can you make out the closures? They echo the black and white.

Janet Lasher, Bernina Show Designer
Meryl Ann also took photos of Janet Lasher's two piece gown. I don't have information about the materials used. I'm hoping to get that directly from Janet, but in the meantime we can admire her beading. When Janet and I were members of the same guild, Janet was just finding her way. We sampled various techniques and I see now from her blog (see my list of favorite blogs) that she has really moved ahead with beading as well as dyeing and silk screening. When she was in charge of the challenge one year, she gave each person a teacup of red, white, and yellow seed and bugle beads. I still have mine, maybe will get to use them up one day. It was an interesting challenge because it was so different from the usual wearable art group challenge of having to make interesting piecing using ugly fabrics. I didn't think of Janet's look except that she goes for the greens and oranges. But when I look back at her Bernina show garments, I realize that she always does "pretty" as you can see in this bustier. At first I thought she'd covered the bustier in running stitches, but after looking at three different closeups, I think those are bugle beads covering the whole bustier and then larger beads for the flowers. Lots of work and I like the texture she created!

See Janet Lasher's Etsy page: http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5346535&order=§ion_id=&page=4

Meryl Ann Butler as Author
Meryl Ann Butler writes columns for OpEdNews.com. As Press she reported what she saw at the International Quilt Festival in Long Beach in an article, "Quantum Quilting: Gramma's Craft Goes Galactic." You'll find it at http://www.opednews.com/articles/Quantum-Quilting-Gramma-s-by-Meryl-Ann-Butler-090730-670.html The article contains many photos of quilts and wearable art, well worth a visit. Meryl Ann is author of the bestseller, 90-Minute Quilts: 15+ Projects You Can Stitch in an Afternoon www.90minutequilts.com To buy the book, go to her Facebook album to see more, and get a special deal--$10 off! http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1796942&l=8aebcfc54a&id=700409527

Polish Embroidery Books
I received my embroidery books that I mentioned last time. The images are breath-taking and right now I can't do them justice in the blog--you have to go to the website to see inside. The books photographed here are what I'm sighing over now. These are collections of traditional embroidery from various regions of Poland, as documented by researchers at museums. I'm keeping this simple because I haven't read them yet. They're entirely in Polish and I read like a grade-schooler having to sound out all the long words. None of these are how-to books so it's a matter of analyzing each photo or drawing and making your own charts. However, just last night I found a how-to book within the Eastern European Art store's collection so I'm about to order it--when our rural system comes back up so I can get back online. (It's been having hiccups lately. Priscilla Kibbee can write to me from Kathmandu to tell me about her travels and shopping, but I can't always stay on to read what she has to say! Priscilla's blog is listed among my favorite blogs on this site.)

Getting an Image Onto Fabric
I could say right up front, just trace it onto net then trace through the net onto fabric. That's pretty straight-forward. But I have to get the illustration out of the book first and resize it. I've decided that for the beaded (or embroidered) goddess for my vest, I would select graph paper that most closely matches the sizes of my seed beads or cross stitches so that I can tell how large this will be if I include every detail. If I had the right photocopy machine with an enlarger and capable of taking heavy plastic, I would photocopy the graph onto plastic "overhead sheets," then lay the sheet over the book's enlarged picture and fill in the graph with a felt-tip pen. That would become my embroidery template. In my case, I first have to scan in the photo in order to enlarge it a bit. That printout can be placed under a photocopy of the graph paper, and I will be doing the design marking over a light table or holding everything up to a window.

I will then trace the image onto net (or veiling) with a Sharpie pen. I can lay the net down on the fashion fabric and use chalk to trace the lines onto the fabric. The lines will probably rub off so I'll be able to lay the net down and trace again any number of times. That's the theory. I hope to be doing this tomorrow, take photographs, and let you know how I did.

I believe I'm not breaking copyright laws because I'm not reprinting in another publication, nor am I making the garment for financial gain. I'm also using old traditional designs that belong to the ages, not someone's personal designs. This has turned into quite an adventure. The books not only provide me with garment shapes and embroidery, beading, and lace designs, but also ideas for closures and finishings. Richness beyond words. I mentioned the seller in my last blog but I'll repeat the url again because the owner tells me she's getting some fantastic books that have never made it to the US before: www.easterneuropeanart.com/store/

Shepherdess Bride Wears Artwear
For those who might have missed this as it made the rounds online, this is the English bride who is a shepherdess and raises an ancient rare breed of sheep, the Lincoln Longwool. She had her wedding gown made from the wool of her favorite sheep, Olivia, with the skirt a flowing mass of curly locks. I especially like the photo of the bride with Olivia. The groom's weskit was also woven from this wool.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1205007/Shepherdess-bride-marries-stunning-dress-wool-flock.html

Center for Pattern Design
If you are not on the mailing list for the Center for Pattern Design, I'm sharing Sandra Ericson's latest message about Pattern Design 2009 Conference in San Francisco, October 2-4, 2009. "This event will be the first time ever that pattern people will have come together from all corners of the field to talk to each other, get great ideas and share a community spirit. Pattern designers often work alone, unidentified, and yet their genius creates our most personal environment.

'We are meeting in a beautiful historic hotel and have a wonderful roster of speakers and events! Gail Gondek, pattern designer for many of the best in NY; Julian Roberts, Subtraction Cutter Extraordinaire; Josh Jakus, brain behind the Um bags, and many other interesting and very talented speakers will be there. In addition you will receive a FREE avatar of your body. This is TC2's introduction to their avatar engine, new to the garment industry."

* Conference Brochure:http://web.me.com/sfericson/CONFERENCE/Pattern_Design_Conference_Details.html

* For Registration, cost, maps, all info: http://cfpd.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=2&club_id=547206

Vionnet Visit
Meet Sandra Ericson in Paris for a Tour of the Vionnet, Puriste de la Mode Exhibit. This event is complimentary for CFPD members! Sandra will be in Paris soaking up the exhibit for a week from October 20 to 27 and would be delighted to schedule an entire afternoon at the museum exhibit with all the details gathered from her 35 years of Vionnet collecting, cutting and constructing. If interested, write to her via her website above. Limited to 20 due to logistics. No trip planning involved, just the museum part.

Draping for Design Classes
Sandra Ericson is also giving more Draping for Design classes--the next level is coming in the spring. "For those in business, the new copying law coming soon will make draping your own designs ever more important, to avoid legal repercussions."

Pattern Archives
CoPA, the Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island (RISD) is an archive of over 46,000 records and 72,000 images from 1868 to 2000 of commercial patterns--so many brands, you'll be amazed--that help researchers and designers date or recreate fashion. It is vintage nirvana! They published a CD set for $350 and now it is all online for a price. http://www.uri.edu/library/special_collections/COPA/ (Editor's Note: This link didn't work for me but for something so special it would be worth our while to search for the correct site.)

Thanks for reading. Till next time, Rosalie

Still in the Design Stage, Slow as Molasses

2009-08-10T03:36:00.000-07:00

Researching Traditional, Ethnic Embroidery Designs
I've been doing research on traditional, Polish and Eastern European embroidery designs like never before. Today I got a book from Amazon.com that deals with the goddess figures of Eastern Europe. (Goddess Embroideries of Eastern Europe. Mary B. Kelly. Studiobooks, Box 23, McLean, NY 13102. 1989. ISBN #0-929 021-24-X) Symbolism and meanings never even crossed my mind before. This is an anthropological study, research and an analysis. I flipped through the book quickly, look forward to reading it properly, because I was enjoying the explanations of the origins of these designs, their meanings, and how designs change from realistic to abstract. But right now I just wanted designs that would help me. This is not an embroidery how-to book, but rather a discussion of the cultural elements in embroidery. Illustrations in the book are black and white etchings--just enough to give us a general idea of the original.

I immediately found a paper cutout of a Polish goddess. Two things are wonderful here. For those who don't know, I'm often referred to as a bird mom because of my long years of keeping my cockatiels happy and alive. One of these Polish goddess figures has a bird on her head and one in each hand. What could be more appropriate? Added to that I had a gap in my design for the back--I just hadn't figured out what to have at lower back. My problem is solved! I will place some form of the goddess there (with birds)!

Another book that deals with goddess figures is Embroidered Textiles by Sheila Paine. Thames & Hudson, Ltd, NY. 1990 & 2008. ISBN 978-0-500-51394-1. This is a big full-color book with many photos of examples. I can't really review it until I spend more time reading it. It does include discussions of not only goddesses but also symbols of various religions incorporated into embroidery. This book is beautiful, and I wanted it just for the photo on the cover. Many of the photos are large and clear enough that you could copy the embroidery, but this is not an embroidery how-to book.

What's Real?
So many topics, so little time. These days I've been focused on two things, feeding the souls in my care and getting to solid work on my vest. The feedings have increased. There were no finches coming around, then one day there were three. Now there are 30+ and the food disappears in nanoseconds. But what we get in return is the air between the trees full of flitting and singing gray-green finches. Meanwhile I went to the table next to the finch feeder and cut out my vest pattern in butcher paper. Now I've drawn the embroidery pattern and like it. It's not totally like so many of the Polish Krakow-region vests. I used elements of the designs I've seen but added my own style to the elements.

I have two concerns. One is that at first I was seeing mostly factory-made, contemporary versions of the women's vest. Embroidery has been replaced by rows of rick-rack. Then I see a lot of sequins and/or large gemstone beads. I'm not convinced these are correct. So I've decided to use seed beads, bugle beads, and some sequins plus hand embroidery. The second concern is that so many of these vests show off a hodge-podge of sparkly beads, without a real sense of design. Is that primitive Polish art, is it poorly made factory work, or is that what was common? I have also seen very organized designs, so what's real?

Fabulous Site for Books and Photos
I have just ordered three books of Polish embroidery. When they arrive I'll tell you all about them. I found them on eBay where the vendor (SLAVART) has put up wonderful photos from the books. This way you can see for yourself some of what I'm looking at. I can't seem to find an easy way to give you access to the eBay site so I'll give you the vendor's website--she deals in books, art, dolls, and costumes from many nations: www.easterneuropeanart.com

Only now I have a new problem of sorts. I mentioned to my mom having drawn my design and being quite pleased with it. She said sternly, "I have to see this, to make sure it isn't Americanized." Heck, I thought it was "Rosalieized"--I had drawn images of roses my way. I don't want to use the normal daisies. I might just have to not show her my design until it's sewn and beaded!! Tomorrow I hope to find a very large frame at the Michaels store where I've seen them in the past. My biggest embroidery frame is 17" square and I need something 24 inches wide and almost as long. I was going to cut out the center of a piece of foamcore, strengthen the frame with duct tape, and sew the edges of the fabric to the frame. But I sense that would be very cheap and unstable. So let's see what I find. I can always come back to the idea. I can also go to a hardware store and buy plywood strips. I need something that can hold the weight of the beads as I work! (I did indeed find stretcher bars at Michaels. The largest was 22" square. That will have to do and will most likely be adequate. After all, I have to get my arms around behind it. A bigger problem was finding thumb tacks to attach the background fabric to the frame. Push pins seem to be more popular now. Thank goodness for hardware stores--they had plain, inexpensive, well-made thumb tacks!)

Discovering Recycling with FabMo
Meanwhile, I have also been investigating recycling fabric. Apparently home decor designers keep sample books, have samples for clients to take home, and at the end of some season, they just throw these away. If you go to www.Fabmo.org you will see how a kind couple are making an effort to keep these out of the landfills. With the help of volunteers and organizations that offer up space, they sort fabrics, wallpapers, trims, and so on. They set up appointments in order to prevent a huge crowded rush, and anyone wanting to create with these materials is invited in to choose at will and for FREE! I had not been before because it's at least a 6 hour drive for me. But I just had to see for myself. Tables are covered with stacks of samples of all sizes. There's not too much yardage but many pieces to sew together. They don't put everything out at once so that people coming in on the last day will have as much interesting variety as those who arrive the moment the doors open.

The concept works! Especially in these recessionary times, artists can use the boost. In October they will have a reception to show off a gallery of work. Judy's dolls will be there as well as Jan's purses and tote bags. Their young granddaughter made a collage that is very creative. I picked out mostly silks and linens and mostly in three color schemes. I found a piece of Polish linen in navy blue and built up a collection of burgundies and navy blues around it. For Trinity I picked out yellow cottons for her dolls. My other colors were brown/black and then a minty green and beige. I envision simple pieced kimono jackets. I understand that someone in Kansas City has already asked for information on starting the same project there. Heck, I'd like to start it nearby myself. I guess the first thing to do is to find the interior decorators. That likely won't be a problem in the wine country. When I took the ethnic embroidery class, I found people who would be interested in scraps. Today I found out my model, Janet, could use them for Christmas gifts (wrap wine bottles) and the receptionist at my physical therapy clinic is interested also. I think this should lead somewhere! www.fabmo.org

Edenwool--A Felting Star
In my travels around Facebook, I found a link to a fabulous Canadian artwear artist. Check out her work at www.edenwool.com

Feeling Sorry for Myself
I know I will soon forget so I'll mention this here and now so you'll know where my time has gone. My husband has felt sorry to have to push his chores onto me. He can't get around well and so I do the taking out of garbage and running to the store and whatever requires climbing up and down the stairs. The upshot is that now I have arthritis in my hip and find it painful to move around. So he thought he would do me a favor and help clean up my computer files. He went after the bookmarks. What he didn't know was that that overflow was where I would park sites I was going to mention in the blog. He eliminated duplications and put everything into alphabetical order. I barely paid attention to the names of blogs I'd set aside. I've now spent hours trying to reconstruct the list. Some of these will just have to wait until I come across them again. Today he went after the fridge. I closed my eyes and didn't watch! Till later, Rosalie

Details I Forgot to Consider

2009-07-25T13:17:00.000-07:00

Planning HOW to Make This Next Artwear Vest
I knew I had to plan what I was making. I forgot to plan HOW I was making it.
I happened to catch sight of a book that I have turned to as a reference over the years. Embroidery with Beads by Angela Thompson was originally a B.T. Batsford Ltd. book, but in 1992 it was republished by Lacis, 3163 Adeline St, Berkeley, CA 94703. ISBN 0-916896-38-2 It is listed for sale (same price) both on Amazon, and at the Lacis website www.lacis.com. It's mostly a black and white book with drawings and photos detailed enough to teach me what I need to know. It feels a bit dated but these are the timeless basics. It moves from beading for theater, church, and fashion, through beaded quilting and smocking, and tambour beading. It's got general instructions across the spectrum of bead embroidery. Angela very quickly convinced me that I have to bead before I sew. Oops.

I had forgotten that beading, like embroidery and quilting, will pull up the fabric. I was thinking the fabric would be heavy enough to work it in my hands, but this book convinced me that I would have to use a frame. I need to do the beading first, then cut out the pieces of pattern. I'm in trouble--I'm a slow embroiderer. I'll start out, see how it goes, and look for a Plan B if need be. I already had planned to machine applique part of the design so maybe this will help tremendously.

When I'd met with Rachel Clark who is the curator/coordinator for the exhibit of artwear next December at Back Porch Fabrics in Pacific Grove, CA, I realized she wanted garments that were more quilterly than what I had planned. I knew I wanted to do beading and embroidery. Then after talking to Rachel, I had to rethink this. I didn't want to mess with my final design, so I decided to piece the foundation as a nod to quiltmaking. I would piece the fabric then stitch away. Silly me. I didn't think about the details of how--after all, I've been doing embroidery for years, I was just going to jump in with needle, Sylamide thread, and beads. Sometimes we need a reminder, don't we? I'm so glad for reference books!

Finding Just the Right Fabric for that Vest
Black broadcloth would not do. I wanted textures to mix together since the foundation was all black. So I got online to www.fashionfabricsclub.com and proceeded to spend a lot of time looking at black fabric. You can't see a thing except a black box but at least they have fabric descriptions that work if you know your fabrics. I ordered a cotton jacquard, a cotton pique, suiting, 100% linen, and a quilted cotton. Since I didn't want to pay high shipping costs, and they were having a sale, it seemed to take forever for the fabrics to arrive via "snail-mail." Of course I wanted it next day but I wouldn't pay for the service.

This is a quick photo of my choices right after I took them out of the drier--funny how the black fades in a photo taken in the sunlight. You can see the variations in color and texture. Across the bottom (L to R) that's the cotton pique, the cotton jacquard, and just peeking out, the suiting. Top row is a poly-rayon that has a weight I like, a linen blend, andd the brownish linen. That was a double-faced quilted cotton--nice texture and good color but heavier than what I wanted to cut up. The suiting looks like shiny polyester but has a good texture with lots of straight lines (now I'm clearer on what "suiting" can mean). The linen is a disappointment. First, it looks more like a very dark brown. That happens with black, you're getting different dyes going into these things and so there's a wide variety in the resulting black. On its own it's ok as a black, so I can use it for a wholecloth garment. But I was tempted to return it because it didn't look or feel like linen. I don't like doing a burn test because I never get it right, so I took a gamble and washed it (not returnable then) and yes, once washed, it definitely had more of the texture of linen, phew!

A Pattern Would be Helpful
I have been through my pattern stash and found two possibilities for this garment. I had a hard time steering away from patterns with a Japanese feel. I didn't realize just how partial I am to kimono jackets or anything approximating the kimono shape. I was about to take a chance on an old Vogue pattern I hadn't used before, but I suspect it too would come across as Japanese, as in Issey Miyake. I came across more photos of ethnic garments and that steered me into a more traditional pattern shape. I hope to have it drafted tomorrow.

In Other News:
ArtFest Fort Myers accepting entries for the 10th annual downtown Fort Myers outdoor juried fine art festival. This juried art show features the work of 200 artists. All artwork exhibited must be created solely by the displaying artists. Entries are accepted in 16 categories: Ceramics, Digital, Drawing, Fiber, Glass, Jewelry, Metal, Mixed Media 2-D, Mixed Media 3-D, Painting-Watercolor, Painting-Oil/Acrylic, Photography, Printmaking, Sculpture, WEARABLE and Wood.

Artists are selected to participate through a jury rating of artistic conception, originality and workmanship. Cash prizes totaling $5,000 will be awarded at the festival. Apply online by e-mailing info@ArtFestFortMyers.com, or visit the Web site at ArtFestFortMyers.com. The application deadline is Sept. 16.

Artwear By Christen
Christen began her career in Wearable Art in 1986. Her work has been shown in galleries and fashion shows throughout the world. Her blog shows many beaded pieces that you might enjoy and lists the classes she teaches.
http://christen-thestoreonthecorner.blogspot.com/

Quilt Festival in Long Beach
The International Quilt Festival/Long Beach is taking place at the Long Beach Convention and Entertainment Center, 300 E. Ocean Blvd, Long Beach, CA. The festival began with a special preview night on July 23 from 5pm to 9pm. Friday and Saturday hours are from 10am to 7pm, and Sunday, 10am to 3pm. General admission is $10, students and seniors are $8, and children age 10 and under are free with adult. The Bernina Fashion Show will not be the stage show, but they will have a daily exhibit where you can have a good close look at the fashions. Expect some 450 vendors--my favorites are books, fabric, patterns, and unusual notions. Did I mention fabric? This is where you can find the rare and unusual. You can also enroll in some classes when you get there. Wish I were going!

Last year was the first year for The International Quilt Festival/Long Beach. I heard that the businesses of Long Beach didn't know what hit them. Many were taken unawares with the sheer volume of people. You can be sure they're ready for the onslaught this year. This show follows the show in Houston and in Chicago. My understanding is that each show has a bit of it's own local flavor and the lucky ones are those who travel around to all three!

Samurai Exhibit in San Francisco
News from Carole Parker of PenWAG: The Asian Art Museum in San Francisco has a Samurai exhibit through September 20th. This is the *only* U.S. stop for this exhibit. I attended a large Asian exhibit some years ago in Oakland where the first part of the show included several variations of Samurai warrior garments. Absolutely fascinating how beautifully they were made with fine stitching and narrow binding. Just as interesting was that their closures we now often duplicate in artwear. I'm going to have to get to this exhibit!

The Clothing Show in Toronto (Sept. 25-27)
Come to the Better Living Centre, Exhibition Place, Toronto. For over 30 years, The Clothing Show has hosted a show & sale for local designers and artisans exhibiting the hottest new designs and vintage treasures. Runway shows will be happening throughout the weekend; plus a large gallery displaying work by local up-and-coming artists. Shop from over 300 booths of unique handmade clothing & accessories, antique to contemporary design jewellery, shoes, home accessories, vintage records, etc.
Fri, Sept. 25: 3-9pm, Sat, Sept. 26: 11am-9pm, Sun, Sept. 27: 11am-7pm Tickets: $8 advance, $10 at the door. www.theclothingshow.com for advance tickets and information. For vendor inquiries, please call 416.516.9859 or email info@theclothingshow.com – We’d love to hear from you!

Fabric Shopping?Fridays are Farmer's Market time for me. In Clearlake we have wonderful live bands entertaining us on the shores of Clear Lake as we visit among the produce and jars of jam and salsa. Two farmers are my favorites--one brings tree fruit and the other the best tomatoes and cucumbers. I live on these all summer long. Now a new vendor brings in whole grain bread. Yum!! I like to sit and talk to Rose about her sheep and other critters while she spins her yarns. Last week Trina joined us. Here are photos of Trina's natural dyes on silk, indigo on cotton, and also local clay on cotton. Would you be interested in buying yardage?

By next time I should have Trina's blog before me to share with you. Please let me know if you want me to show more like this. I think her silk dyed with grasses or pennies is delicate and interesting (not shown here). The pink silk at the end is a composted piece. It's hard to find natural dyers. Also Trina is into recycle and reuse. I bet she'd dye/overdye your fabrics or garments for you. Contact me in comments please. Till next time, Rosalie

Plan, Design, Create

2009-07-09T12:12:00.000-07:00

The Planning is Crucial
I know that when we're in the excitement of making a new piece of wearable art, we're hot to jump in and get started. We're usually wanting to try a new technique, fabric, color combination, pattern, design, or any of a million things that go into artwear--and just want to get on with it. I know people who do that and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. My time is too short and valuable to waste making something I can't wear, so I'm more methodical. Do you stop to think about the process? Top of my list is making sure the thing is going to fit right.

If don't have my latest measurements and body shape, I can't get started. That's why I put so much time into making a moulage and sloper last spring. Now I trust that I can compare those vinyl copies of sloper pieces against any pattern I use. You probably can't see the detail in this photo but I buy size 10 patterns because that's what fits my neck and shoulders. Then you see where I have to redraw the sides to make the rest of the garment fit my body. Even if you're planning to make an oversized jacket for example, you should still check the fit. This is where you also consider proportions. If you're short, you don't want this jacket hanging below your knees, or have the shoulder drop near your elbow.

Getting My Plans Together
I'm still in the first stage of my next garment. It's the planning that I have to be sure of before I let myself design and create. I thought I was in the design stage until I realized that I keep backing away from the final vision. It's getting clearer, as of today I'm certain I'm making a long vest, but I haven't got a feeling for what it should be. (Actually, having said that, I sat out in the night and now I know what I want--lots of sparkle this time--probably influenced a bit this week by Michael Jackson's outfits.) I also know I'm making a black foundation. I know some of it won't come together until I have the pieces before me, ready to be stitched permanently. What colors of embellishing thread do I want to use, what color and types of beads, or which flower am I going to fussy cut--I don't know yet. But right now it doesn't matter, because at least I know I'm going to be doing some freemotion stitching as well as hand embroidery, I know I will be adding beads and even sequins, maybe even crystals, and I know I'm going to applique flowers. Knowing that and collecting the supplies to choose from is my planning process.

Sketching is Key
I've gotten my black fabrics by mail, I've met with Rachel and gotten her input on what techniques she wants, I've perused patterns and selected three I will combine, and I've sketched my ideas a couple of times. So I'm just about out of the planning stage. As you will see, I've been building the design simultaneously. I don't normally show them to anyone but I know these are not final, so I'll give you an idea of how I sketch. If I can't sketch it, I can't make it. It's just how it works in my brain. (And now that I've looked at the scanned copy as I'm editing this blog, I see that I'd better make sure that the vest is 2/3 of the entire length, including pants, otherwise my proportions are disastrous.)

Collecting Ideas
I had planned all along that I would make some sample pieces, to see just how the appliques and beading will look. But part of my creative process is the breathless excitement at seeing what happens in the doing. I like some of it to be spontaneous. This weekend I'm taking the class on ethnic embellishment so I'm going to get back to my handstitching skills and maybe even pick up a new idea or two.

Practice, Practice, Practice
I need to practice first when it comes to some skills. I always have to warm up for freemotion stitching. That's when I make the foundations of little purses, cell phone holders, or postcards. I prepare a fabric sandwich in an appropriate size and start to stitch--no goals, no worries, just play--if it turns out well, it gets used. This is my way to practice techniques and work out problems. To learn more about making quilted postcards, go to www.art2mail.com. I just love making those. I use them for holiday and greeting cards all year round. But now I'm prepared to go even smaller: ATCs (art trading cards) which are the size of playing cards, and would you believe "inchies" which are one inch square. Here's information about ATCs with samples of people's work:
http://www.atcswap.com/
http://www.afiberjourney.com/atc.htm
http://judyalexander.blogspot.com/2009/02/atc-swap.html

Inchie Quilts
As soon as I saw little beaded items on the cover, I had to buy Inchie Quilts by Nadine Ruggles. American Quilter's Society, 2009. ISBN 978-1-57432-991-9. (www.AmericanQuilter.com) Mostly the author explains how she makes inchies to apply to a quilt (with velcro, glue, etc.). She does explain clearly how to make inchies and provides many embellishment techniques including embroidery, beading, freemotion quilting, and more. She tells you what supplies to buy and how to finish these off. I kept thinking about how you could use them in wearable art. An obvious choice would be as a removable and interchangeable brooch or charm. I can see these tucked away in a collage vest or used as part of a closure. I can also see them as a focal point, though an inchie is probably way too small on it's own unless you expand the design beyond the inchie (for example, start a seam under an inchie seam and continue it across the garment). The idea of making them sounds like such fun, requiring even less designing than you have to do on a postcard or ATC. It's the beading I'm looking forward to because it doesn't take much to create a design. Yes, this is where planning and design overlap but then can carry you to a more successful creation.

Hmm, I'm going to try to make my posts shorter when possible so they aren't overwhelming to read. So I'll stop for now. I'll leave you with a view of who visits my husband who is cooped up at home.
This is Woodrow Woodpecker sipping out of the hummingbird feeder! He announces that he's about to come over so we can't miss his visit. Charming! Till later, Rosalie

It's All Research for Artwear

2009-06-28T02:28:00.000-07:00

First, Find the Fabric
Ah, how time flies when there are things to be done! I've been researching stores in a fifty mile radius and found some winners--an almost local source of silk doupioni and a source of silk kimono scraps. These are little bits, but perfect for stunning little insertions in piecing. Oh yes, this is a picture for you of a small portion of what I bought. The name of the store is Yasuko in Healdsburg, CA. You can have a look-see online. http://www.culturalsavvy.com/JS_yasuko.htm. This is a clothing store, with an upscale look in an upscale downtown. In the window was a stunning somewhat tailored jacket with collar and lapels and pockets and all, entirely made from soft shibori-wrapped-and-dyed fabric, topping an intricately draped skirt in a striped indigo. This was not an Issey Miyake, but a product made in America. I had mom sitting in the car on a hot day so I couldn't investigate further, but the image is burned into my brain. I have to go back for another look. Meanwhile there are many kimono-style jackets in various weights, collars and sleeve bands made from old kimono fabrics. So how did I spend my time there--taking a quick look at all the baggies and even flat-fold pieces from obis and silk kimonos. These are things to dream about for future projects.

Sometimes You Have to Dye It
I finally took the time to rinse my dyeing experiment with Easter egg dyes that were then overdyed with Kool-aid. I'm afraid it's not impressive. I like them and will use them--after all, they are bits of various types of silk. But something settled on the blue samples. I had put them in water to soak and some black dots landed on the parts that were out of the water. I can scrape some off, others are in the fabric like dye. So those that remain will now be part of what I make, ugly but so it goes. Maybe I'll foil over it at some point and make it more beautiful. Since I now know that these dyes will fade and at some point I will want to paint over them, I'm just going to continue to experiment and see what happens. The rinse water got clear with the blue until I added soap and then it released more blue. Drat! I didn't want to do all the right things like use Retayne or keep rinsing, maybe with cooler water. I moved on to the other colors. They were all losing dye like crazy until I just got tired. I hung the blue pieces up to dry. Maybe I should title this one, "What's with the fabric lady, where's the food?" That's one of my regulars in front of the deer barrier. I wonder if she's the one who jumped the gate and ate the strawberry plants? The rest of the dyed colors are resting until I feel like doing this again. I must not get distracted with this experiment when it's already past time to work on the jacket or vest for Rachel's show.

Fabrications and More on Judy Dieter's Jacket
I've been chatting with Judy Dieter who made the blue and gold jacket in the last blog notes. In fact, she's the one who sent me to Healdsburg to those stores. Fabrications is a quilt shop that carries bolts of silk doupioni. Be still my heart! They also have Lonni Rossi designed fabrics (a favorite of mine), fabulous batiks, and more, like Japanese indigo cottons that suit garments as well as quilts. I was in heaven. I think the website name says something about attitude around here (big grin). http://stitchbitch.net/. In any case, Judy clarified more about her jacket. I want to tell you where to find the "propeller" manipulation.

The fabric manipulations weren't just from Rami Kim's book (see my review in archives) www.ramikim.com.

She also used the origami-like ideas from Rebecca Wat's book, Fantastic Fabric Folding ISBN: 978-1-57120-085-3 http://www.ctpub.com.

I too have used those books together--they are rich in ideas! Fantastic Fabric Folding is a relatively old book and both women have published more recently, but do look for these for your bookshelf. I just checked, and Rebecca's book is still available from C&T Publishing. It includes 8 different fabric manipulations used in quilts, vests, and home decorating projects. The instructions are clear, accompanied by good photos to explain each step. I found it fun to do fabric manipulations, and had forgotten all about the Twirled Roses. Maybe I can work them into my next project.

And in Other News...

The Textile Museum in Washington, D.C., is holding a seminar this fall (October 16-18) on the subject of Japanese fashion. The title is "From Kimono to Couture: The Evolution of Japanese Fashion." http://www.textilemuseum.org/symposium.htm. Thanks to Mary Marik for this information.

Ethnic Embellishment Workshop
I signed up for this one immediately. Please contact me (see profile for email address or phone 707-987-9138) and I'll get the word to Marilyn Webster. I don't want to post her personal information online. There are a few spaces left:

The Redwood Handweavers and Spinners Guild, a local fiber guild will be hosting two short workshops with Alexandra Hart in July. Alexandra is one of the founders of Folkwear patterns. These workshops will focus on handmade embellishments, including closures and edgings. Ethnic Embellishments: July 11, 1-4 pm and July 12, 9-4 p.m. (choose 1 day or 2). We will explore thinking creatively about using these techniques in ways that go beyond their use in their cultures of origin and how one might adapt the basic idea to modern fiber art uses. All are ethnically based handwork techniques with unusual elements. All materials will be provided; you bring thimbles and scissors (and an optional embroidery hoop). We will finish with a sampler to take home and written instructions for the techniques.
Location: Sebastopol Center for the Arts, 6780 Depot Street, Sebastopol
Cost: CNCH Guild members: $29 for 7/11, $58 for 7/12. $85 for both days.
Non-guild members: $34 for 7/11, $63 for 7/12, $90 for both days. Includes materials. Maximum 15 participants.

If you can't go to Houston, there's also Long Beach!
I hadn't been focused on the International Quilt Show in Long Beach because I knew I wouldn't be able to go. I hope if you were interested, that you have already made travel arrangements. But just in case it slipped past you, I know Trudi is looking for someone to take her room on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. I believe she was staying at the Hyatt which hosts the show. If you would like to take on her reservation, please contact me and I'll get the word to her. My email is in the profile or call 707-987-9138. For more details about what's going on at the show in Long Beach, go to http://www.quilts.com. I'm sorry to say the Bernina Fashion Show is no more and will not be appearing in Long Beach. But I have no doubt you will still have plenty to see in wearable art, in ideas posing as quilts, and in vendors booths. Half the fun is meeting so many people who speak "fabric" and share the same passions! If you go, please tell me all about it!

Mary Brown's Work
When I joined the Peninsula Wearable Art Guild in the 1990s, Mary Brown was president. She and that group were so influential in my creative life. Mary now makes and sells jewelry online. Go to: http://marybrownjewelry.com. Look under the header Color History to see Mary's wearable art from years ago. Then check out http://www.penwag.org to see what the ladies (and gentlemen) of Penwag are doing these days.

I just got my latest Threads magazine. This issue is another winner! I haven't read any of it yet, but see that Sandy Ericson has written another article as has Kenneth D. King, and Lois Ericson describes how she makes her pieced scarves. Looking forward to putting my feet up and checking out this one! Till we talk again, all the best from Rosalie

Judy Dieter's Jacket, Folkwear News, and Kenneth D. King Classes

2009-06-11T01:08:00.000-07:00

Judy Dieter used the Mt. Fuji Jacket Pattern from Brensan Studios www.brensan.com. I've used this same pattern, like its shape and large areas to do with it what you will. I too strayed from the pieced layout. If you try this pattern, compare all the pattern lengths before you cut. I can't find my notes now, but I remember finding a discrepancy. Regardless of that, it's a good pattern to have--and maybe the problem has been fixed by now.

It was just a fluke--I drove to Shelley's Quilted Treasures in Kelseyville to touch some great fabric and say hi to Brenda. I had a need to talk sewing and such. She told me the Moonlight Quilters of Sonoma County were having a quilt show--so I went. I've never met this group but their website looked promising: www.mqsc.org. Most quilt shows include some wearable art and this one didn't disappoint. I wanted to show and tell you about the one that interested me the most.

Judy did exemplary work (I'm sorry that my photos aren't up to the standard of her work--I took them on the fly as I marched through the exhibits). I believe all her fabric manipulations can be found in Rami Kim's book, Folded Fabric Elegance. I reviewed it in this blog on January 29, 2009, so please check the archives. I'm sure you all know that there are people who admire wearable ART and people who prefer WEARABLE art. I admit I get a bit annoyed with the latter group because I feel if you're going to make wearable art you want it to be noticed and to show that you like or make good design with your hands, not just add a bit of embellishment. On the other hand, I rather suspect that my own work belongs in the latter group because I don't have the nerve to pile on too much in the first go-round.

But what Judy Dieter shows us is how you can build in subtlety through color choices and sticking to two colors, and then adding a lot of techniques which provide both texture and interest. You should see the perfectly piped front edges! The gingko crest is gold silk doupioni that might have been fused (it's very smooth and flat) and she satin-stitched the edges. Beautiful! What might be hard to see in the photos are two areas of hand-embroidery. One strip has French knot flowers. The round strip uses beads for flower heads. Nice. See the piece that looks like blue rickrack? Those are two-fabric prairie points and their placement over hand-dyed blue fabric gives that effect. Notice too the variations on prairie points. You can see hers better than my violet ones in January. I saw a lot to like in this jacket but had very little time to stand and enjoy it, so am grateful both for being able to take the photos and for finding Judy and getting her permission to post my photos.

Message from Kate Mathews, owner of Folkwear Patterns
I'm going to assume that not everyone who reads this blog has signed up to get Kate's emails. I find them so interesting that I'm copying the latest one here, with Kate's permission.

Summer Greetings to our Folkwear Friends!
When I start pulling warm-weather clothes out of the back corners of my closet, I always think back to old favorites that I wore in summers past. For example, when I lived in Albuquerque, New Mexico, I wore lightweight cotton dresses from Mexico all summer long. They were easy to find, with colorfully embroidered yokes, and were so cool and comfortable. Now that I live in North Carolina, these happy dresses live only in my memory, so for this year I decided to make my own! I immediately thought of the Blouse in #125 Huichol Wardrobe http://www.folkwear.com/americas.html (front and back drawings shown here).
I'll cut it to dress length and without the sleeves (just turn under and topstitch the yoke's armhole seam allowances). I love the small pleats below the yoke because, unlike gathers, they keep the finished garment from looking too blousy—which is great for maternity wear but no longer for me. I'm going to add some multicolored machine embroidery to the yoke and may also experiment with decorative stitching partway down the pleats. By the time I finish, it should be in the 90s here, so I hope to have some cool new frocks that also bring back warm memories.

What's New at Folkwear?

Elizabeth is finishing up the garment samples of the newly re-published #148 Black Forest Smock. We chose doubleweave cotton with a geometric design for the man's smock and a related but contrasting cotton for the shoulder yokes and neckband. The woman's smock is made out of lovely white-on-white embroidered cotton with sheer white sleeves. She's making a bias sash out of the sheer white cotton and adding embroidered ribbon trim that coordinates with the fabric of the man's smock. Now we're looking for models to wear them for the photo session, so you will soon see these two special garments on the web site (#148 Black Forest Smock in the Old Europe Collection). http://www.folkwear.com/oldeurope.html

There's inspiration everywhere!
If you need to refresh your creative energies, you won't have to go far this summer. Just look at this amazing lineup of special events—they will make you want to hit the road with your sketchbook or idea journal:

# Fashion in Film: Period Costumes for the Screen, featuring costumes from Evita, Dangerous Liaisons, Pride and Prejudice, Out of Africa, Titanic, and other movies. Allentown Art Museum in Allentown, Penn., through August 9. www.allentownartmuseum.org.

# Writing with Thread: Traditional Textiles of Southwest Chinese Minorities, featuring more than 500 objects from the museum's collection of Southwest Chinese ethnic minority costumes. Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico, through August 16. www.moifa.org.

# Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity, featuring handwoven and embellished tapis (skirts) from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. These sumptuous garments communicate a family's global contacts, social station, and clan identity. Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College in Hanover, New Hampshire, through August 31. www.hoodmuseum.dartmouth.edu.

# Indonesia and the Zone of Attraction, featuring textiles from Java, Sumatra, Borneo, and other locations. Museum of Art at Rhode Island School of Design in Providence, RI, opening June 26. www.risdmuseum.org.

# Recent Acquisitions, including hats from Peru and Cameroon, a turban from India, contemporary batik from Java, grass raincoat from China, and other items acquired within the last five years. Through January 3. Also, Flowers of Silk and Gold: Four Centuries of Ottoman Embroidery, an online "virtual" continuation of an earlier exhibition. The Textile Museum in Washington, DC. www.textilemuseum.org.

# The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion "focuses on iconic models of the 20th century and their roles in projecting, and sometimes inspiring, the fashion of their respective eras." A virtual walk-through of the galleries can be seen on the web site. Through August 9. Also, Tibetan Arms and Armor from the permanent collection, including decorated armor and equestrian equipment from Tibet and related areas of Mongolia and China, dating from 8th to 20th century. Through fall of 2010. Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. www.metmuseum.org.

# Unspoken Messages: The Art of the Necklace, including pieces from Chinese Miao culture, Morocco, Hawaii, and India. Minneapolis Institute of Arts, through September 13. www.artsmia.org.

# Elegant Armor: The Art of Jewelry, featuring innovative pieces from the permanent collection, dating from 1940s to the present. Visit the web site for a good selection of images of pieces in the show. Museum of Art & Design in New York City, through July 5. www.madmuseum.org.

# Five Centuries of Indonesian Textiles, dazzling textiles from as early as the 1500s. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, through September 6. www.lacma.org.

# 4th Annual Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design, featuring costumes from television's past and present. Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Los Angeles, through September 6. Also, several online "virtual" shows including the 17th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition. www.fidm.edu.

# Fashioning Felt, an exhibition of historic examples of felt as well as contemporary product design and applications in fashion, architecture, and home furnishings. Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York City, through September 7. www.cooperhewitt.org.

# Sturbridge Antique Textiles and Vintage Clothing Show, a marketplace for thousands of textile lovers looking for vintage pieces and bargains. July 13 and September 7, at the Sturbridge Host Hotel and Conference Center on US Route 20. www.vintagefashionandtextileshow.com.

# Isabel Toledo: Fashion from the Inside Out, a look at the American designer who says, "…the seamstress is the one who knows fashion from the inside! That's the art form really, not fashion design, but the technique of how it's done." Through September 26. Also, Fashion & Politics, an exploration of more than 200 years of politics as expressed through fashion, including flag-motif designs, a Nixon paper dress, and memorabilia from historic elections, through November 7. Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. www.fitnyc.edu.

# As the Century Turns: The World of the 1890s, an online slide show of staged tableaux with fully costumed wax-headed articulated dolls from the turn of the 20th century. Lacis Museum, Berkeley, Calif. www.lacismuseum.org.

# Gazette du Bon Ton, an exhibition of fashion plates from the early 20th century magazine, known for its collaboration of couturiers and illustrators to promote leading edge styles, opening June 25. Also, Michael Kors Designs from the Wendy Zuckerwise Ritter Collection, celebrating the designer's 30th year in the fashion industry, through November 2. Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio. www.dept.kent.edu/museum.

# Intersections: Where Art and Fashion Meet, an exhibition pairing important works of art with significant designer fashion to celebrate the exuberance of art, fashion, and popular culture. Goldstein Museum Gallery, St. Paul, Minnesota, through November 1. http://goldstein.che.umn.edu/

# Madeleine Vionnet: Puriste de la Mode, a retrospective celebration of the important early 20th century French designer who revolutionized women's fashion through elegant draping and use of the bias cut. Musee de la Mode and du Textile, rue de Rivoli in Paris, France, through January 31. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr.

May your summer be filled with creative inspiration and special memories!
NOTE: Let us know if you have ideas for new patterns. We love to hear from you. Kate at www.folkwear.com

News from Kenneth King www.kennethdking.com
Hello, Folks! I’m going to be visiting the ASG Atlanta Chapter on July 24-25, 2009, and it’s filling fast! To get in, go to www.asgatlanta.org, or http://www.asgatlanta.org/KennethKingJuly2009.pdf or call Martha Myers, at 770-642-8985. Events will be held in Roswell, GA.

##Friday July 24, 2009, 7-9PM Lecture and Book Signing–Demystifying the Creative Process
This free-form lecture will cover Kenneth’s way of looking at the creative process. The goal is to prepare students to dive in and create in any discipline and all areas of daily life. The process includes exploration, inspiration, mistakes and misfires—all go into the finished work.
Kenneth will also be signing copies of his new book, Cool Couture.

##Saturday, July 25, 2009, 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.--Pattern Drafting Workshop: Skirts
How to draft commonplace skirt silhouettes from measurements. After learning the proper way to measure, students will draft a straight skirt, an A-line skirt, and an A-line skirt with center pleat. This is the perfect introduction to those wishing to build confidence in pattern drafting. Lunch is included.
Supply List:
• white paper (banner or project paper)
• pencils & eraser, paper scissors
• long ruler and any sort of square (6” wide Olfa works for both)
• tape measure
• 3 yards of 1/4” elastic
• Scotch tape
• tracing carbon (can be typing
carbon) and tracing wheel

I Can't Resist (showing you this)
If you talk to teachers about color, they will tell you to study nature. Look at the amount of yellow in a rose and then look at all the colors that are also there. Look at the proportion of green to offset the yellow, etc etc. So I do that, I watch the indigos in the landscape and sky just after the sun has set. I also like blue and pink together. A lot of people say eww! but this is where I keep my own counsel. So imagine my delight at sunset tonight. These were the scenes from our balcony:

Till next time, Rosalie

Nine Patch Media Makes DVDs, Vogue has New Patterns

2009-06-01T02:38:00.000-07:00

Hooray, I have something to crow about--HP sent me a replacement printer and it works! Finally I can scan again so I can do reviews of artwear books and patterns and DVDs! I had to send back the original printer but when I got to FedEx they were closed for the day (businesses close early around here, something I haven't gotten used to yet.) So I made "lemonade." I went across the street, got out my camera, and took photos of Mt. Konocti and Clear Lake, CA. Here's one for you (and yes, anything I post in my blog is copyrighted automatically.)

Making Nine Patch Media DVDs
Elizabeth Phillips, Chris Manuel, and Sharon Pederson are partners in Nine Patch Media which makes instructional DVDs. I reviewed their work when I told you about Pamela Allen's DVD. I have been wanting to review Carol Doak's DVD among others from this same company, but first I will share with you Sharon's description of what's involved in making these DVDs. Now that you've seen how Rachel Clark uses traditional quiltmaking in her garments, you might be even more interested in the DVDs.

Nine Patch Media
by Sharon Pederson (including photos from Elizabeth Phillips)

These are photos of Sharon Pederson on the DVD set.

A little over a year ago, when my pension checks started arriving, I thought it might be time to start thinking about retiring from my "job" of teaching quilting and writing quilting books. So, when I received an invitation to do a DVD from a woman I had met through a mutual friend, I thought it might just work in with my thoughts about "slowing down." I could make a DVD and then stay home but still "teach" via the DVD. Seemed like a great idea.

Fast forward 15 months or so and my schedule doesn't look the least little bit like that of a "semi-retired" person, which thrills me to death. With my two friends and partners, Elizabeth Phillips (who sent what I thought was an invitation to shoot a DVD), and Chris Manuel, we are now Nine Patch Media. Her invitation, which I misunderstood, was to form a partnership and create high quality DVDs with North American quilt teachers and wearable art teachers. Their jobs were to handle the technical and marketing ends of things, and my job was to contact the artists--many of whom were friends I had worked with. Hmm...tough job! So now I get to work with my two new friends, the highly talented Chris and Elizabeth, and with my old friends who have to come to our studio on Vancouver Island to be "shot."

Sharon on set with Barbara Olson

My participation in the project has opened my eyes to a whole new way of teaching. To be able to spend time with some of my favorite people while they are in the studio is way more fun than retirement could ever be.

Sharon on set with Barb Shapel

Sharon on set with Ionne MacCauley

Imagine my job: I meet the teacher/friend at our brand new little airport in Comox, BC, ferry her (so far it has all been women but we would love to have one of the "guys" come and do a DVD with us) to the motel (a very nice, inexpensive place about 10 minutes away from the studio), get her settled, and (here comes the hard part) take her to one of the many great restaurants for dinner. After a good night's sleep I pick her up and drive her to the studio where we go over the day's schedule, pick the quilts/garments for the backdrop, check lighting and sound levels, then dive right into filming.

Ionne MacCauley hard at work with Sharon.

Typically, the first scene consists of the artist getting used to the camera and the "artificial" feeling of talking into a lens. Usually by the second scene they are pros and we sail through the morning's takes. After a quick, nutritious lunch we're back in the studio for the afternoon's work. By five-ish we are all ready to call it a day and we're off to yet another nice restaurant in Courtenay or Comox then back to the motel for beauty sleep. Our usual shoot lasts two days (unless it's me in which case it takes days because I live here and we don't have the pressure of getting everything done before the artist has to catch a flight back home).

For me and the visiting artist the work is mostly done, but it is just starting for Chris and Elizabeth who do all of the editing and post-production work. When they are finished making it all look and sound pretty, I get to edit it for content (as does the artist) and then it goes off to be replicated.

Our reception by quilters has been phenomenal. It appears that in these troubled financial times people are looking for a way to satisfy their need to take classes without having to travel long distances to catch up with their favorite teachers. The reviews we've read all mention the luxury of having the teacher at home with the student, and her availability, day or night, to repeat the section that was a bit troublesome. The production values are superb, and the ease of finding the right chapter to watch either a repeat of the lesson or to laugh again at the outtakes is top-notch. Every production includes a trunk show and many also include a tailor-made EQ6 lesson.

Our distribution network is astonishing for a company that didn't exist until early 2008--our titles are carried by major distributors all over North America, Europe, Great Britain, and Australia, and orders are being shipped all over the world. The disks are "region free" which means they can be played on television sets or computers anywhere, unlike some movies which can be viewed only in the country where they were purchased.

We are proud of our "little company that did," and we hope that after sampling the titles we have produced, that you'll want to go out and get a copy of your favorite title for yourself. The list of fabulous teachers with finished DVDs available includes: Margaret Miller, Carol Doak, Pamela Allen, Jackie Robinson, Barbara Olson, Barbara Shapel, Lorraine Torrence, Ionne McCauley, and myself. The list of upcoming titles includes repeat visits from Margaret Miller, Lorraine Torrence, and Barbara Shapel, and first timers Marti Michell, Karla Alexander, Mimi Dietrich, and Mary Covey. (If you're not familiar with the work of Sharon Pederson, check out www.sharonpederson.com.) The DVDs are distributed through Martingale & Company (www.martingale-pub.com) or Nine Patch Media (www.ninepatchmedia.com.)

New Vogue Patterns
If you are interested in the latest Issey Miyake pattern, go look here:
www.voguepatterns.com
However, I am thrilled by a whole bunch of new Vogue patterns that you can see at this site. (They're having a $5.99 sale online June 1-3.) Among my favorites are the Koos caftan, a Rucci top with a very interesting back (I'm probably too small and pudgy to wear those sleeves), a couple of patterns from Lynn Mizono who has her own take comparable to Issey Miyake, and a new one under the Miyake label. I like the Sandra Betzina tunic but don't want to play at adapting a pattern for knits to woven fabric. Marcy Tilton also has a t-shirt pattern, this one with side interest.

I've been in Lynn Mizono's studio and loved her small but important details that made her clothes extraordinary, so I'm delighted that she has put out patterns and I want to try them out. She works with rectangles and circles so you'd have large spaces for surface design. The garments I saw were made in white linen but I'll bet we could even piece the fabric and make it work. There are two other new designers worthy of note--I'll have to check them out more. Right now I didn't want to go to that extreme. Take a look so you'll see what I mean.

The Fashion Show on TV
Speaking of extreme, how are you doing with that new tv show, The Fashion Show? I was disappointed that they aren't running the whole series online after all. I'll have to wait for reruns, if they have them. For me there's a certain charm missing. Is it that the combination of Tim Gunn and the others holds to a more classy standard on Project Runway? The new show feels somehow uneven, clumsy, even inept. They put the designers through hell with their little quick challenges. How would you like to fix a zipper while everyone is watching and you're working against the clock? I'm glad they finally disbanded the teams. The little chats in the hallway come off catty--maybe just because of the setting. And unfortunately, I haven't gotten to know the competitors well enough either in the quality of their work or as people, to begin to care. Is the camerawork that different? Are we missing more close-ups and sewing details? I have to see all of it again to be more objective, but when I'm more interested in watching Chimps of Eden, something is wrong with The Fashion Show.

Sundyes with Karren K. Brito
Karren Brito, dyer extraordinaire, is giving classes in her Entwinements Studio in Yellow Springs, Ohio. Dye small projects in a fully equipped studio, Sundays, 1-6 PM, $15 in advance, $25 at the door. Email Karren at entwinements.com. June 7 is Dip dye a skein, June 14 is Paint a skein, and June 21 is Indigo Vat. For more details online, go to http://entwinements.com/blog-mt3/

And in additional news...
My 20 year old cockatiel, Squirt, broke his wing and can't fly, but the vet says he's fine, just very old and needs lots of TLC. I'm a caretaker already so what's another soul in my hands. I have to crochet him ladders and ramps so he can get around without falling. I thought somehow that was appropriate. I'm using jute and nylon ropes and a variety of crochet hooks to see what works best. Please speak up if you can suggest something better. Till next we meet, cheers, Rosalie

Making Art Wear and Rachel Clark's Lecture

2009-05-21T02:53:00.000-07:00

Here's a new concept for making art wear that just came to me. I like to have several projects going on at the same time. If I start months in advance with foundations at the ready, what are the chances that I'll finish more than one project early? It's worth a try because maybe the variety will stimulate me more, so that I won't procrastinate. My plan is to cut out the foundations for several patterns at once and then play with a variety of techniques. Right now I have two sweatshirts on the table, but I want to make a collage jacket, have to make the Polish vest for Rachel, and I want a Koos jacket--and I have at least half a dozen patterns I want to try out. So why not put those $1/yd fabrics to work? One of them will be the base of those silks I dyed. I have a new idea for the Polish vest so I need a foundation after all. And the collage and Koos jackets should be just plain fun, fun, fun! That should keep me going to the studio all summer.

The six dirndl skirts are finished. They aren't art wear, but could be the start of an ensemble. I didn't take photos because they were so simple. Each was made from 1.5 yards of cotton. I made a casing for grosgrain ribbon at the top, and just turned a hem on the bottom. I figured costumes on stage wouldn't need a hand-stitched hem. I think I was right, the parents of the actors were happy to see the kids "dressed up for a change." Since we were aiming for a 50s look, I went to my stash for plaids, polka dots, and pale florals.

My reward came on Saturday. I had planned to drive to Sacramento to see Rachel Clark's trunk show for the Network for Wearable Art http://artnjavablog.artnjava.com/2008/09/25/california-wearable-art-groups.aspx. I know several people there, so was looking forward to seeing them too. First I'd forgotten how around here you can depend on road-work to be tying up some two-lane highway or another. I appreciate the effort since we are so dependent on these roads to get us on and off the mountains, but when you're in a hurry, you have to wonder why these people seem to be working round the clock. Fortunately the scenery is always worth admiring. I finally zipped along the 2 hour route through almond trees and rice growing in flooded fields, only to get lost once I was inside Sacramento. I missed the turnoff and travelled miles beyond it. I got to JRFlamingo www.jrflamingofabrics.com with half an hour left in Rachel's lecture. So I'm not able to show you all that Rachel showed them, nor tell you about the meeting. But here's a taste--and even that short taste was wonderful and enlightening.

What surprised me were things I somehow hadn't noticed before or maybe forgot. Listening to Rachel, I realized how very much I must have learned from her over the years because I do things the same way she does, namely, on a fabric foundation. Then because she always surprises me with her whimsical designs, I hadn't paid attention to the fact that so many of her designs use traditional blocks. She tried a new curved approach in the pinkish-beige coat. She used the old nine-patch in the blue coat. I don't remember the number of shades of blue she used, but do know that she had to make well over 500 blocks to create the fabric. I came in just as Rachel was describing how she organizes her blocks on the various shapes of her coats. Some require sections akin to triangular gussets. I don't know the details, but what a great reason to take yet another of Rachel's classes. The second blue garment is a cape that has no opening except in front. It was made from not only various blues but also various fabrics including silk, wool, cotton, and more. Another fact about Rachel's work is that she prefers to do handwork, more embroidery than quilting actually. She doesn't do much machine quilting. Just listening to her made my fingers itch to get at my fabric--that's my favorite kind of inspiration. I see that Rachel is reworking her website again so keep checking back to see what's new: www.rdkc.com

The Network for Wearable Art sometimes meets at JRFlamingo, a fabric store in Sacramento, CA. It's a little jewel that carries all the good "stuff"--contemporary fabrics, batiks, silk doupioni pieces, fabric dyes and paints, Angelina and other of the latest surface design supplies, and more. On July 6-9, Susan Khalje, contributing editor to Threads magazine, will teach a Haute Couture class during which you may work on the project of your choice. The cost is $600 if paid by June 1st and $645 if paid after. This is special because normally Susan likes everyone to work on the same project. The store has a big room so you'll be able to spread out to work. Please go to the website for contact information.

Look at These Sites
www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/drinkmix.shtml
Paula Burch has the best information on fabric dyeing. Her instructions for egg dyes and Kool-aid are also excellent. Now as I'm finishing my experiment, she cautions that these dyes will fade in about a year. Drat! So I guess I won't be using them in a great jacket--or I'll do more to the fabric first.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ec1E3ZHdSU Cincinnati Art Museum: Where Would You Wear that? Thoughts from a collector on Issey Miyake and his Japanese contemporaries in design.

www.marymcbridearts.homestead.com Fiber art in Florida--workshops and a retreat

Mother Nature in May
What a beautiful morning it has been! Yes, the weather is great, the heatwave has been tamed by the fog on the coast, and the skies are blue. I have spent the morning with nature. I was feeding the cat upstairs when I saw mom deer and her two fawns. I put a bird feeder filled with water out for the birds and now the deer are bringing their fawns to drink. I had to laugh as the fawns climbed into the water. As I watched, a second mom with twins came by. Eventually they all got together in our backyard--the little ones curious, the moms cautious and competitive.

I hadn't wanted to cut the tall grasses in our yard because I thought we were depriving the deer of food. As it turns out, they're feeding only on the cut side--shows you how little I know. The little ones love to jump and play and leap through the tall grasses, running at breakneck speed in a circle, then come back to the cut area (and mom). I love watching them flick their tails and kick up with their hind legs, so frisky and full of fun. Something else I found out: the fawns have a special call of their own, a kind of reedy call, something between a kitten's mew and the squeak of an oboe reed.
And while all this gamboling was going on, I heard a new bird song. A fair sized brown/beige bird with a crest. A thrush perhaps? I'll have to go find the books. Now that's what I call a great May morning and all just beyond the stoop to my studio!

The Fashion Show on TV

2009-05-09T03:10:00.000-07:00

Something you'll hear me repeat over and over is that art you wear isn't really successful art if it doesn't fit well and if the proportions are wrong. No one sees the ART very well if their subconcious senses there's something wrong with the garment. It's kind of like when a wonderful painting is put inside any old frame instead of one that complements the art. I thought that was brought out loud and clear in the new tv show, The Fashion Show--that's why it's back on my mind.

Yesterday was a very full day here. By the time I got home 8 hours later, I was exhausted--to the point that I completely forgot that Isaac Mizrahi's new fashion show was going to be on at 10 pm. I watched the news, oblivious. I finally remembered at 11:05! But my dears, we have two websites happy to show us the details if you missed it too.

I would recommend you watch the show first on the tvsquad site because all that you see is the entire one hour video with a few 15 second commercials. If you go to the second site (bravotv), you will immediately see who lost. Yes, there's a lot of info on that site and better closeups--but I was glad to watch the show all the way through first, and then to go back and see the closeups and not have the surprise spoiled. But my gosh, how wonderful to be able to watch this show over and over!

www.tvsquad.com

www.bravotv.com

Yes, I have a million opinions. I'm annoyed with them for not moving from the original Project Runway formula. Why would it have hurt to try a different format? Yet I like some of the tweaks to the familiar routines. They are an enhancement to the Project Runway show, and it's a tougher competition (I think, for one, because of who is judging and how). I won't say more so I won't spoil it for you. I am thrilled to have both shows available to us. We can never get enough sewing and fashion shows as far as I'm concerned. The fact that they talk about fit and proportion and show us what they mean is so good for wearable art.

Part of my long day was going to Rupert, Gibbon & Spider Inc. www.jacquardproducts.com to pick up my order (I used a narrow back road through a forest just for the adventure of it). They are selling a thin off-white pdf silk noil for $1 per yard. A bolt is 50 yards. I love working with noil, I'll be able to dye the fabric as I need it, and do anything I want to it because at that price I feel freer to experiment. They also have a flawed white burnout rayon/silk velvet for the same price. Now that one is definitely for experimenting. If it works, I'll have scarves or collar bands or appliques. I also went for one of their indigo dye kits.

I love dye kits because it doesn't take much effort to get started. They provide most of what you need and you quickly get to the experience of dyeing. This one I expect to use on a jacquard cotton upholstery-weight fabric and some white t-shirts.

I've had my easter-egg-dyed silks sitting around, finally overdyed them with Kool-aid, about the time I found out these dyes don't last more than a year. Good thing I didn't go to the trouble of doing shibori! I like the colors though. Blue jays have been coming by pecking at them (wrapped in plastic wrap) on the deck so it's time to bring them inside and finish them off with rinsing and drying.

I picked up a new printer at a very low price--hope it works! I just can't be without a printer/scanner, and waiting for help from HP Support is driving me nuts. They're apologetic but it's been two weeks trying to fix this thing with me following their instructions and just using up a lot of ink and getting nothing. While I wait for results, I at least have an inexpensive backup machine, so here's hoping things will get rolling on this blog again.

Now what can we do to have a conversation about the new tv show? You can write to me in the comments. Or we can try this: rosekcookeATaolDOTcom. I would really like to hear your opinions about this show and of course anything else having to do with wearable art!

Before I forget, the new Threads magazine is out. In the midst of other interesting articles, Claire Shaeffer has written about Yves St. Laurent. The photos she has included are of some of my favorite pieces in that museum show. More on that later, cheers, Rosalie

More Testing and an Apron

2009-05-05T03:02:00.000-07:00

Margot is having problems seeing the end of my posts. At the same time a friend reminded me that I might be making my photos too large for people with older computers. I'd forgotten about that, especially last time when I resized my photos a different way and could tell they were much larger than before. Meanwhile HP is still trying to figure out what's wrong with my printer/scanner. I feel like I'm without my left arm! So for now I'm testing what I've done in Photoshop--whether resizing the photos has been successful, and whether that has helped Margot and others.

In the meantime, just to keep this wearable artish, I'm including a photo of the quick apron I made for my niece Heidi who just got her Masters in family and child psychology. I guess they always stay little in your memory. I keep returning to that image of her being a day old, still in the hospital with her mom, curled up to Aga's leg as Aga sat knitting. (My mother and sister are knitting fiends!) Just as a memento of this new occasion, I tried out the crystal letters available at Walmart. They're not Swarovski but they do sparkle and from some angles, like in this photo, they are so subtle you can hardly see them--I think I have better photos where the sun hit them. I didn't follow the instructions because their way my design was falling off. I put a piece of parchment paper over the crystals and added the hot iron that way. It worked! Now I want to put crystals on everything I make. It beats sewing on sequins.

OK, I will write again very shortly. I've been asked to make 6 skirts for a high school production next week, so I'm working on quick and dirty all round. I'll be back to you as soon as I can. Meanwhile, here are some recent photos I took. I'm testing sizes and clarity for now.

First is our house in a spring rain. As you see we're below the street--I kind of like it--the slope for me is like a privacy barrier or a moat. It's so steep, nobody wants to come down into it. Second photo is the view from Dexter's house across the street from us. Dexter is the black and white cat who now owns two households.
The third photo I took at sunset yesterday--a brief view of the lake taken between two houses. Till next time, Rosalie (and please write to me)

One Idea (No, Two) for Art Wear/Wearable Art

2009-04-25T02:19:00.000-07:00

Fortunately, I don't have to resize photos for the blog--I can take them straight from the camera to the blog. That is happy news, eliminating several steps I used to make. I'm tired of looking at that photo of the house on fire so I'm putting up some quick photos of art wear I've made.

I just took this vest out of the drier.
Yes, it could use a good ironing, but I'm in a hurry to get to bed and this will move that smoky photograph toward the archives. If it looks similar to my earlier jacket, it should. These are more of the cotton batik scraps from Thai Silks. The vest is a compilation of favorite patterns and the hem is whacked at different lengths and angles just for the fun of it. I think it would have looked better if I had been more extreme. This way it looks more like I didn't know how to keep the hem straight.

I had the most fun with using different colored threads from Superior Threads (www.superiorthreads.com) to stitch around each scrap. Up close they're interesting. From a distance they don't show up. There's a lesson for next time! So now I'm thinking it's time for more embellishment. I've worn it several times and after washing, some of the strips ravelled away from the stitching. I don't mind telling you that I did a very quick fix. It's duplicated in several places so that it can look truly intentional. I have to do more of the same--five places doesn't look like a design choice.

Remember how I was looking for fabrics to go with my purple/brown African print? I'm still working on it but here's my latest attempt. I love the trims from India I found at a discount store in San Francisco.

www.brockette.com You must see Jack Brockette's stunning work. The quilting, the ideas, the pojagi jackets, the quilts and wallhangings are wonderful. I'm so glad he gave us some closeups. Of course I wish for text to tell us some of what's happening before our eyes. Are those silk screens at times? The color combinations in the pojagi pieces draw me in--especially the brown, gold, orange one. And I can tell you that Jack dyes the fabrics so he's created those colors. Did you knit that one striped piece Jack? Thank you for the list of artists for inspiration. Sue Benner is a new favorite of mine. Go have yourself a treat--check out Jack's site.

I guess that fire scared the folks who run our community because they sent out two letters recently. The last one gave me two weeks to cut the wild grasses that are our landscape. Normally we wait until they turn brown (golden) but now we have to cut them before they even finish growing and setting seeds. This is an early photo taken a few weeks ago before the heat wave, when everything sprang up overnight. This is part of the side and back yard.I understand being wary of California wildfires but this feels a bit extreme. Don't the deer need some of this while they're giving birth and raising fawns? Nevertheless I'm tired and sore from climbing our slopes with the weed trimmer. I'll have to do some every day to get through the whole thing in two weeks.

Dexter will be happy. He hates wading through the tall grasses. That's the name of the stray I told you about some time ago. Turns out he belongs to the little boy down the street. I only found out on Wednesday. Meanwhile I had started to think of this cat as my own because no one claimed him. I thought he was a girl after all, named him Teenaleena, and we had a regular schedule. He came for supper at 8 and immediately ran downstairs to his bed in the garage where he massaged the softness and told me to turn out the light. So for one night they kept him in and I missed the cat but was glad to know he was at home with his owners. Since then he's been back for supper and bed two nights in a row. I think I'm the part owner--besides, I think I'm the only one who combs his beautiful long fur. Now if only my cats could appreciate him.
Till next time, Rosalie

This is Only a Test

2009-04-21T01:39:00.000-07:00

I've been struggling with this new printer/scanner. So far it hasn't scanned or copied anything though it's supposed to have the capability. I've finally analyzed the problem, sort of. It can't see the paper or the image, almost as though something is covering that part of the equipment. Second, this new printer no longer has the HP software that allowed me to prepare photos for the blog. It was so quick and handy and now all I can do is make photographs for scrapbooks! Now I can call support since I know better what I'm talking about. However, I want to see what the blog software can do for me so that's why this test.

What about the photo? Last Saturday a house burned down above our house. I stood on the deck with camera and binoculars and watched the flames eat relentlessly. First went the porch, I could see the railing turn to ash, I could hear the crackling, watched the smoke change colors, and heard small explosions. I thought it was various kitchen appliances, but no, the owner had weapons stashed inside.

Sunday I drove up the hill for a look. There's nothing left but burned remnants of a home. Now it's just a garbage dump.

So not much dyeing or sewing done in this house. I did dye silk with left over easter egg dyes. I put the packages into the microwave a couple of times, but the dye liquid still had color, even though I didn't have enough and it all soaked into the fabric immediately. I decided to let it sit overnight. Life got in the way, so the packages have sat outside overnight, got microwaved again, then left out in the sunshine for two days. Maybe tomorrow I'll unwrap them again. I might overdye with Koolaid. Last week I forgot to include the photos of the new Jacquard Indigo Dyes kit, so here is one that shows what you can do with it.

More later, I have stories piled up for you!

2009-04-12T03:30:00.000-07:00

Easter just isn't Easter without decorated eggs in our house. My Tata (Dad) used to be most creative then--he'd paint little lambs with crosses and all kinds of beautiful Polish designs. Of course, as a creative little girl, I had to join him with my own designs. Then in recent years he couldn't get into it anymore, he couldn't hold his hand steady, and so I dyed or painted for all of us. (I find it interesting that now that it was time to decorate eggs, I miss him more than I have up till now. Christmas we were still somewhat dazed and in shock, but now I MISS him smiling over my eggs!)

It's not like I have the leisure time anymore to spend a day drawing and painting eggs, so I buy kits and dunk the eggs. This time the little kit I got had a white wax crayon in it. The instructions said to dye the eggs, let them cool, and then decorate. Huh? I knew better. So you see here the first layer of resisted eggs. I should have made more designs and overdyed again and again, making them really complex and more like pisanky. But I was on to learning how to use the breadmaker, so this is all we get this year. I'll have to remember for next year.

An article in a magazine reminded me about dyeing with Koolaid--yes, the packaged mixture for flavored drinks. I became even more interested when I found out this dye works only on protein fibers, that means silk and wool. Now I remember that some years ago I learned about dyeing roving and wool yarn spun for knitting and crochet. I just hadn't realized I could use it on silk. I have lots of scraps of white silk that are beautiful but not speaking to my sweatshirt lifestyle. I bought them when I was still thinking of going to work in white blouses. Now I need colors. Here I am out in the country, and I can buy packets of Koolaid in any of the stores! Wow, this is serendipity. Then one of the articles online suggested that if the Koolaid isn't quite the right color, that we can add some food coloring or, Easter egg dyes! Do you get the connection now? No, I didn't dump out the Easter egg dyes--they're under plastic wrap. I was going to dip some silk pieces in them today and show you tonight, but I got tangled up fixing my printer. So next time I will show you the effects.

I'm going to go with the plastic wrap and microwave heating method. I have a microwave that is no longer used for food so I'll drag it out and test this idea. Exciting! I also went out and got a food scale because you have to know the weight of your fabric to know how much dye you'll need. Don't yet know how pricey this will get--or should I be ordering silk dyes online. But the idea of quickly and easily dyeing up a fabric, sprinkling it to get different mottled colors, and sewing up an easy garment appeals to me. I'm including here three websites with clear instructions. Do check out all three. I found each one clarifies some point better than the others.

Instructions for Dyeing Protein Fibers (wool, silk):
www.handspinning.com
www.woolfestival.com
www.thepiper.com

Indigo Dye Kit from Jacquard Products
Then to add to all my dyeing excitement, I got this ad from Rupert, Gibbon, and Spider Inc., home of Jacquard products: "Bring ancient craft to contemporary fashion with our new INDIGO DYE KIT. We are thrilled and delighted to introduce this new addition to our popular fabric dyeing kit line. The unique characteristics of indigo dyeing make it easy to create wonderful resist pattern on fabric. This kit brings the ancient art of indigo dyeing to the home dyer in a user friendly formulation. Your vat will keep up to several weeks and dye more than 15 yards or 5 pounds of fabric or 15 shirts."

Below, I bring you news of an Indigo dyeing workshop in northern Michigan. I know there's at least one being held in Sebastopol, CA. Let me know if you know of more. Dyeing with indigo is different so I would like to take a class to learn the tricks. Meanwhile, do go see what else is happening at Jacquard headquarters:

Links from the folks at Jacquard!
www.jacquardproducts.com Go here to see colors.
www.inkjetfabrics.com Check out the various coated fabrics.
www.silkconnection.com Ah, my favorite--fabrics for dyeing, not just silks.
www.teejuice.com Introduces fabric pens and a t-shirt decorating contest. Eight prizes per week include Super Mega Sets of art materials.
©2009 Rupert, Gibbon & Spider, Inc. manufacturers of Jacquard Products. Jacquard is a registered trademark of Rupert, Gibbon & Spider, Inc. 800.442.0455 | P.O. Box 425 | 1147 Healdsburg Ave | Healdsburg CA 95448

Rupert, Gibbon & Spider Inc. are very supportive of artists. The following are a potpourri for you to enjoy:
Lucy Puls: www.lucypuls.com: sculptures made with inkjet printed fabrics--design inspiration

Sioban Silks: siobhansilks.com: gorgeous handpainted silk scarves by Siobhan Elder.

Vortical by Phoenix Bess: Knit these beautiful and cozy socks in the project found at knotions.com.
www.knotions.com

Three Pines Studio: these folks have a long lineup of workshops including one featuring the brand new Indigo Dye Kit. This is in northern Michigan, beautiful country, parallel to where I spent summer vacations in Ontario. Worth a trip just to be there, creating art while there must be heaven.
Workshop: 1-2-3-Indigo Blue With Pre-Reduced Indigo August 2, 6-8 pm August 3 & 4, 8 am-4 pm Workshop Fee: $225 (includes all workshop materials, continental breakfast & lunch) Instruction on making the indigo dye process accessible and easy for home, studio and classroom using the new “pre-reduced indigo” from Jacquard products. An intensive workshop designed for fiber artists and teachers. Indigo dyeing is an amazing natural dye that develops shades of blue once the fiber is exposed to the air. www.threepinesstudio.com

Bernina News
Visit www.berninausa.com frequently to check for invitations to BERNINA Instructional Webinar Events. I just found out about these and want to try one. Let me know if you've watched one of these.

BERNINA Fashion Show - Rendezvous
The latest BERNINA Fashion Show, Rendezvous, premiered in fall 2008 at the International Quilt Market in Houston, TX. The show featured the works of 48 talented designers who were invited to create one-of-a-kind garments. As usual Bernina showcased these outfits in their magazine Through The Needle #28. We're told to go to our Bernina dealer to buy a copy. My experience is that either the magazines haven't arrived or they've been sold out. Fortunately we can either subscribe to the magazine or buy back issues on DVD. However, I also registered with the Bernina online newsletter--they recently sent out access to a pdf file of the 2008 Bernina fashion show. Be still my heart, I get to see it all after all! You don't get the swish and sparkle and movement that you see on stage, but this is better than not seeing these at all.

This show was the final Bernina fashion show. It will be shown again in Chicago next week and then that's it. In 2009 there will not be a glossy fashion runway show of wearable art in Houston etc. Meanwhile Karey Bresenhan, co-founder and director of Quilts Inc. is looking for ideas on how to replace it. To register for the newsletter, write to: enews@berninausamail.com

Quilts Inc. also has News:
Judy Murrah, formerly the Vice President of Education in charge of all classes and educational offerings at the shows, has been promoted to Vice President of Education and Administration. She will now additionally oversee and coordinate most of the day-to-day workings in the Quilts, Inc. office, including human resources. Congratulations to Judy! Judy wrote several books on making traditionally-pieced jackets. Look for her name at www.amazon.com to see the whole set. I think they had a big influence on wearable art for several years in the late 1990s--what she explained is still viable.

Ruth Moya, formerly Show Operations Manager, is now Show Manager. She will assume all responsibilities overseeing all activity on the show floor at the Festivals and Markets, from set-up to take-down. She will also be the main point of contact for exhibitors in all matters on site. Kudos to Ruth! I remember when she first worked with the Bernina fashion show designers. I was judging and Ruth was having to babysit while I was sifting through the clothes. She's been through the mill and I think will make an excellent Show Manager.

Santa Rosa ASG Sewing Retreat July (10-13) We have instruction/help on Saturday/Sunday which is always nice if trying to get paper patterns fitted. Come with friends to spend a weekend sewing, relaxing, swimming, or walking on the grounds. Price includes campus parking permit, 9 meals, studio apt. room, & sewing area. Sonoma State University in Rohnert Park. Arrive after 1 pm on Friday; go home after lunch on Monday. Shared room is $290 per member; private room is $340 per member, (non-ASG members, pay an additional $40 for 1 yr. membership) Questions? email Barbara Cohn (cohnman@pacbell.net) Payable to: ASG -Santa Rosa 1300 Commerce St. 'B', Petaluma, CA 94954

Last time I told you about the Yves St. Laurent catalog but couldn't find a source. Priscilla Kibbee found the book is available at Amazon.com for $31.50. I put the information in the comments area immediately. Please do look to comments in my blog, for just this reason. If you haven't seen it yet, please do visit Priscilla's website www.priscillakibbee.citymax.com

Carole Parker forwarded information from Darcy Fowkes about a wearable art fashion event in San Francisco being held Friday, April 17. For more information: http://www.discardedtodivine.org/
For clips of last year's show click on the Jan 8 video at http://cbs5.com/advjanandjen

I spoke briefly on Facebook with Annette Randell, owner of Artemisia in Taos, NM. I wasn't aware of her business, but do check it out. She sews for her own store as well as carrying the work of top artwear designers. Lots of photos of wonderful wearables here: http://www.artemisiataos.com/

Art I Wear Has a Slow Start

2009-04-04T02:55:00.000-07:00

I can't believe how long it's been since I sat down at the sewing machine. I was so eager to get started on the next jacket once I'd finished the one for the book. At that point Valentine's Day was coming up so I cut hearts while watching tv, arranged them on a large sweatshirt, then realized with so much stitching (quilting) that jacket was going to shrink and not fit. I'll have to make insets and gussets. Lost interest immediately, and went on to plan B. I was at Joanns, checking out one of their fabric sales. I found a fabric that was the wrong color for me but the print was exactly what I wanted for yet another sweatshirt jacket--I wanted something with movement and that's in this fabric. I figured I'd do something to adjust the color around my face. It wasn't until I got home that I realized this print was supposed to be something I didn't have to follow, to keep the quilting simple. But no, I'd picked a Japanese floral fabric, one that called for more complicated quilting (around the flowers instead of just straight rows). I took the sweatshirt apart, glued the fabric to the sweatshirt--and there it sits, mocking me! It's more work than I wanted to do. I finally picked it up today and went looking for DMC threads to do a bit of hand embroidery on it. Now it's a project like this that paralyzes me. It's not that complicated, just looks labor intensive so it stops me in my tracks--plus it feels doomed for failure. But the fact that I put my hands on the fabric today is a positive step. I bought the threads from mom so she'll be after me to get it done! Besides, who says I have to stitch around the flowers? I can do a series of waves. To be continued...

Meanwhile I'm planning my Polish vest and the ideas change day by day. At first I nixed appliques, but now I was thinking of Mark Lipinski's fabric line called Krakow and am wondering if I could replace some beading with applique--just to see how it works and make it go more quickly.

And in the very back of my mind is the garment I was planning before Christmas and before I started the one with Australian fabrics. I have a book sitting on my sewing table. It is there for a reason. I pick it up and flip through it whenever it catches my eye. That's the idea. I know what shape I want to work with, so now it's time to consider techniques.

Calistoga Yarns
My mother owns Calistoga Yarns. She used to be Adela's Yarns on Castro St. in San Francisco and in Calistoga until she sold the business. She found out she couldn't retire and so started another yarn store in her studio. She still carries imported yarns and textured and hand-painted yarns. She just found two types of sari silks that she likes and voila, I have my first technique gelling. (If you want to visit mom, please write and I'll share the address and phone number.)

A Book:Skinny Quilts & Table Runners
I've spent time flipping through the book: Skinny Quilts & Table Runners from today's top designers. Edited by Eleanor Levie. Martingale & Co.,www.martingale-pub.com. 2008. ISBN: 978-1-56477-730-0. First this is a book of ideas. The title says table runners and the book suggests wall hangings, but I immediately saw jackets and vests. We get ideas and techniques from Yvonne Porcella (who has made fabulous wearable art for years), Kaffe Fassett and Liza Prior Lucy, Jane Sassaman, and Laura Wasilowski among fifteen designers and projects. Right now I'm pondering over Carol Taylor's pieced runner with couched yarn. That's the photo on the cover. I don't have to couch all over the entire jacket but I won't decide until the piecing is done. The sari silk from mom suggests the colors and in this very moment I've thought of some of the fabric I should use. Hmm, I'm getting excited about this now. I need to draw the idea to see where it's headed. (As to the book, as with every good quilting book, each of the projects has detailed instructions, clear drawings, interesting designs that will stimulate me for a long time, and quiltmaking basics.)

Blog and Website from Kristin Nichols
I read a blog by Kristin Nichols who gives us wonderful photos from her farm. Right now we get to see adorable lambs (especially the triplets) and ewes and the Crazy Chicken, and to hear their stories. Only this week the sap stopped running, but last week we saw the scenes of maple sugar time. Boy does that bring back memories from when I was growing up in Fruitland, Ontario. Every spring the teachers taught us about maple sugar. All these pastoral scenes are delightful but hmm, the blog lists "getting stitched?" What is this--why is there a list of Kristin Knits topics in this blog? Check it out. I haven't yet gotten one of her knitting or embroidery books, but that's coming up. I am very familiar with the yarn company she worked for, Classic Elite, and have admired her patterns through the years since I buy the very magazines which contain her work--very classy, beautiful and intricate knit designs. I love her style. Now I know why--she explains that she is "especially inspired by ethnic textiles." Check out her sweater patterns and look at what she has done with their farmhouse. This isn't grandma's farmhouse anymore! At least not the one I used to visit in Ontario. Check out both her blog and her website too: http://getting-stitched-on-the-farm.blogspot.com/ http://www.kristinnicholas.com/
You might get motivated the way I did today!

Art Wear Events and YSL Exhibit

2009-03-29T16:22:00.000-07:00

"Art-for-Wear" now signifies contemporary wearable art, and "Wearable Art" means jewelry and possibly t-shirts!?? This is my conclusion after spending a lot of time online this past week. Do you understand it that way too? Please tell me what you think under Comments. I might start referring to all of it as art you wear or artwear.

April 25, 2009: This postcard advertises one of my favorite annual events in Palo Alto, CA. It's an intimate gathering of textile, accessory, and jewelry artists. Each has a vending space and when they're not busy selling to patrons, it's a chance to mingle and talk. Across the top you are looking at the work of Maja, Joanne Staniszkis, Anja Broenink, Carol Windsor, and Chris Triola. Bottom row: Jacquelyn Rice & Uosis Juodvalkis, Nicky Falkenhayn, Bonnie Wells, Voline Strand, Susan Kirschner, and Stacy Zink. Among other participating artists are Judith Content, Carol Lee Shanks, Ana Lisa Hedstrom, Ellen Hauptli, and Jean Cacicedo--there are 36 contemporary artists involved. Location: Palo Alto Art Center, 1313 Newell Road (at Embarcadero), Palo Alto. www.paact.org/style. Admission: $10 donation (tax deducible) 10 am to 5 pm.

April 21, 2009: "Diva Luncheon" at the Knoxville Museum of Art adds a fashion show of wearable art. This is part of the expanded Dogwood Arts Festival in East Tennessee. This information courtesy of the Knoxville News Sentinel Co. I'm sorry I couldn't find more information, but if you go, please let me know what you saw so we can tell everyone next year.

Remember the earrings in last week's note? You couldn't click on the link because I had one "n" too many. So please try again:
www.meghannan.com Meg wrote to remind us that she will have a booth (Booth #1825) at the International Quilt Festival in Chicago, April 17-19, 2009 (Donald E. Stephens Center, Rosemont, Illinois). For more information about the quilt festival go to www.quilts.com I enjoy the quilt festivals so much that it just kills me to miss them. If you go, please let me know what you saw and enjoyed.

Marcy Tilton sent out her monthly newsletter (March 2009 Newsletter for Everyday Creatives)--always something interesting to read and ponder, and beautiful fabrics to buy. We also get a heads up on new Vogue patterns she is about to publish. Sign up with Marcy so you can get your own reminder by email. Meanwhile, here's the link: http://www.marcytilton.com

Lois Ericson also sent a note: "Now that the Design & Sew sale is over and we are getting back into our routine, it is time to concentrate on the new website. We have been working on it but it seems to take longer than I anticipated. I'm sure most of you know how that works! The new site will still be http://www.designandssew.com so you can find me. The heading on the home page will say 'Lois Ericson Designs Accessories.' I hope you will 'check me out' and see what I've been working on."

The American Craft Council (ACC) puts on annual shows in cities around the USA. (I try very hard not to miss the one in San Francisco, so many beautiful and exciting works on display!) They showcase among the best of contemporary artists in artwear, textiles, jewelry, furniture, sculpture, and more. They sent me the following: Now accepting applications from rising craft artists for our show in San Francisco! (From what I have learned over the grapevine through the years, this has been a difficult show to get into--so this is a great opportunity.) Show dates are August 14-16. Sixteen makers will be juried into this bustling section, which celebrates the innovative techniques and materials of the burgeoning handmade movement. This is an opportunity for talented artists and indie designers to gain national exposure at a well-established show.

Located at Fort Mason Center on the San Francisco waterfront between Fisherman’s Wharf and the Golden Gate Bridge, this show features 250 artists and serves a well-established audience of over 10,000 Bay Area craft enthusiasts. The average booth is valued at $1,000 but as part of the Council’s commitment to indie crafters, the cost of participation is just $350, which includes a 10-ft skirted table, electricity and lighting trusses in a shared loft space. Plus, there’s no application fee! Applicants are eligible only if they have NOT shown in an American Craft Council show previously. Embellished commercially-bought objects (e.g., tee shirts, note cards, etc.) are not eligible. The deadline to apply is Monday, April 27.
Please submit: * (3) low-resolution images of your work * A brief description of your work (materials, dimensions, techniques)
* Your contact information (mailing and email addresses). Send submissions and inquiries to Erika at altcraft@craftcouncil.org. Finalists will be announced in May. You will find several entries in Google, but I liked the wearable art photos here: http://74.208.10.209/BaltimoreWholesale2009/genre.php?id=2

The World of Wearable Art is an event held in Nelson, New Zealand. There's no point in me trying to describe it. Just go to their website and look at the photos--in fact, do a search on Google and you'll find both photos and videos to entertain you for hours. http://www.worldofwearableart.com/ http://www.viddler.com/explore/WorldTelevision/videos/4/ What came to my attention is that the creator of this 20 year old show, Suzie Moncrieff, has stepped down. The gentleman replacing her is from the dance world. It will be interesting to see how he changes things.

Linda Teufel at Dragonthreads wrote to announce that Vogue patterns is putting out another Koos design. This one is a caftan, just in time for summer. I didn't have permission to show you the photo of the pieced garment, but I think this will also be a keeper. It will be fun to choose the fabrics and to make. She's also having a sale to sell the last of her copies of the book about Koos techniques and Barbara Olson's fabulous techniques book for art quilters. http://www.dragonthreads.com/

Ethnographic Designs. Because I have signed on with Rachel Clark (see last week's note) to make a vest that reflects Polish garment embellishments, I've been looking around and doing research. I was going through my several books on world textiles and to my surprise, there was very little focus, if any, on Polish costumes. Then I went online looking for costumes, and again very little. I hit the bonanza by searching on Polish "design." So if you're doing research for your cultural textiles of choice, try that. Of course at this point my eyes and ears were wide open for more on the topic and up comes an advertising email titled Ethnographic Designs at Peruvian Connections. Check out their website to see how they've incorporated cultural textile designs into their elegant clothes. http://www.peruvianconnection.com

This week I finally made the trek to the Yves Saint Laurent exhibit at the De Young museum in San Francisco. It left me speechless and that's saying how fabulous are his garments and this show. The exhibit ends on April 4, 2009, so if you're in the Bay Area and haven't been, hustle, hustle, you don't want to miss this one! The exhibit starts out with mostly black clothing. The lighting was quite low, very dark for my aging eyes--even with spotlighting I couldn't make out the seams in black velvet dresses. That was frustrating, but maybe not so much for all the young people who were there. I studied a draped coral gown but couldn't figure out how he sewed it. I used my new skills of being able to design anything you see in a photograph and figured he'd made a very unusual pattern for the ties that were part of the body, then used a facing that ends and disappears on the underside, but I don't really know. I'll have to play with drafting the pattern myself and see what I get. As a last resort I'll call Sandra Ericson and ask her, "Oh teacher, what do you suppose happened here?"

I went through the exhibit slowly. I was surprised that it was mostly black, then went back to take a second look at details and to take notes and make drawings. I didn't know there were so many variations on the tuxedo look. The pieces that were haute couture listed the famous women who ordered them. There was the little dress that Catherine Deneuve wore in the movie Belle de Jour. Another that Jane Fonda wore and I could just see her in it, ditto for Princess Grace--hers was a simple princess seam dress with bateau neck. These were the clothes of my life! It was actually pretty heady--some pieces were so very famous from photos in magazines. I was running late so I moved on towards the bookstore. And that's when I realized there was another larger room full of brightly colored gowns. My word! But my eyes were banging together by now. I had seen so much I couldn't take it all in anymore. One outstanding piece was a wedding gown for Shakespeare's time, there was the African collection, the Mondrian dresses, on and on, even the tweed suits. I have to go back! Hope I make it.

I did look through the catalog a couple of times. (I tried to find you a source for the catalog--they had piles of them at the museum. The info in the book gives no ISBN number, only the publisher's address and two websites. I have looked high and low and find nothing on the website--this looks to be a special order, but try these: http://www.abramsbooks.com www.hnabooks.com. My most favorite thing is his drawings. They speak to me more than do the photos, probably because I like to draw any garment before I make it. I have to create the image so that I can see where I'm heading and whether I have proportions right. One of the museum notes indicated that YSL's drawings were usually right on--what he drew was what you got. That isn't true with most designers. By the time they cut out the design in muslin and identify the requirements of the fashion fabric, the original idea gets modified--but not so much with YSL's clothes. Beautiful as the photos are in this catalog (big, heavy paperback!) they don't do the clothes justice. I have seen so many of them in fashion magazines over the years, and it just doesn't compare with seeing the real thing. One of my favorites is the Shakespearean wedding gown. Standing on that platform it's fabulous, a huge poufy dream of brass-colored brocade and tulle with some light touches of orange. In the book, that photo emphasizes the orange and I wouldn't have given it a second look! I'll try to write more about this show after it ends so that I don't spoil it for anyone else who might go. I didn't find indications of this show travelling elsewhere in the USA. I overheard a gentleman saying these clothes were all going back to Paris. I'll say one thing that I hope to elaborate on later. In the colorful room I felt surrounded by wearable art. There I saw first hand how these designers go to various world cultures to get ideas. In YSL's case, I remember Russia, China, Japan, India, and Africa. I expect I'll discover more. He used beading, heavy embroidery, and then the shapes of the clothes to reflect these cultures. Absolutely fascinating!

Show Your Wearable Art Skills #2

2009-03-21T03:08:00.000-07:00

Oops, I published the last note without the index entries. So they're here, now please read the note that comes before this. And as long as I'm here, I'll include a photo from Northern California. I was waiting for my car to be tuned, so I went for a walk in the neighborhood and found this. Somebody just couldn't wait for flowers to bloom!

Show Your Wearable Art Skills

2009-03-20T21:59:00.000-07:00

Do you know Rachel Clark? (Sorry for the blurry photo, but I had only a small image.) Rachel was one of my first teachers of quilting and wearable art techniques. I love her sense of humor and direct way of speaking--and that sense of humor shows up in her clothing. Long ago there was a whole article about Rachel in Threads magazine because of her style of working and piecing clothes. Since then you've surely seen her on tv, in quilting shows, and she teaches regularly at guild meetings, and annual workshops and retreats. Her fashion shows are a hoot plus she has been both a Fairfield and Bernina Fashion designer. Rachel has also designed a line of patterns suitable for wearable art. Check out her website and gallery at www.rdkc.com

In recent years, Rachel's been curating shows of quilts and wearable arts. The opening is at Back Porch Fabrics www.backporchfabrics.com in Pacific Grove, CA in December, and then the show travels for at least a year. (Last year the display was also exhibited at the Pacific International Quilt Festival in Santa Clara. As soon as I get them edited and organized, I will bring you those photos.) Now here's an announcement from Rachel of her next exhibit of garments and quilts. Maybe you'd like to enter? I've already signed up so come and join me in this show.

Ethnic & Cultural Influences
Often we like to look to different cultures and traditions when it comes to creating designs. They are seen as different, unconventional, and out of the ordinary, because many of the textiles or garments from other cultures are based on patterns, images, and colors that are often not seen in our everyday life. Many of us have incorporated ethnic styles, colors, and patterns into our work without even thinking about their origins. We think nothing of using Indian shisha embroidery, batik, or indigo dyeing, or making an Afghan coat or beading a vest. Gosh, remember the days of peasant blouses and skirts, the African Dashiki shirt, or making those Afghan coats? We were so excited using many of the Folkwear patterns. I am inviting you to go there or near there again.

I have been asked to do another show at Back Porch Fabrics in December and I invite you to participate. Drawing inspiration from Africa to Turkey, from Australia to Alaska and Northern Canada, create a long vest, coat, or small quilt using one ethnic influence. I have listed over 40 different cultures for you to choose from. Email me if you need further clarification (rachel@rdkc.com).

Do look to cultures that we seldom see. Kimonos are everywhere, but what about the appliqued robes of the Ainu peoples in Japan? (Editor's note: This partial photo is of the large catalog put out by the Seattle Art Museum. It is titled "Beyond the Tanabata Bridge, Traditional Japanese Textiles," edited by William Jay Rathbun, published by Thames & Hudson, no ISBN number. I found this book years ago at a textile show for collectors--it was the first time I had come across both an Ainu robe (fabulous!) and information about how the Ainu robes were made (in an essay by Michiyo Morioka.)) We have been influenced by Aboriginal peoples on all the continents, maybe you'd like to pick one and use their designs for beading or applique. You may use inspirational fabrics from the country of origin, dyeing techniques, ethnic embroidery, or the patterns, colors, and styles from those other cultures. Do show us how their designs inspired you.

Guidelines and General Information

Garment
1. You may make a long coat, a long vest, or a ¾ length coat.
2. The culture or ethnic influence you choose should be instantly identifiable when viewing the garment.
3. You may use one of Rachel Clark's patterns, or a pattern of your choice.

Small Quilt
Small quilt measurements: 30 inches x 30 inches, 30 inches x 36 inches, or any size within the above dimensions.

Artist’s Statement
Please provide a one-page statement describing your experience participating in this project.

Exhibits
All garments and quilts accepted for exhibit will be shown at Back Porch Fabrics in December 2009/January 2010. The garments and quilts will travel to other exhibits for at least a year. They will remain in Rachel's possession for that time unless you make special arrangements with Rachel.

Reception
Back Porch Fabrics hosts an opening reception for the artists and guests the first Sunday of December from 1-3 p.m. Cards will be sent to all participants for mailing to friends and family.

Fee
I am requesting a fee of $20.00 to cover part of the expenses. Please make the check payable to Rachel Clark.

Dates to Remember
*April 1, 2009: make first and second choice of culture you will represent. Call or email Rachel to make declaration to participate, then pay fee (see address below).

*October 1, 2009: Artist’s statement due.

*November 1, 2009: Garment or quilt due at Rachel's house, 622 Martinelli St., Watsonville, CA 95076. 831-728-4179 rachel@rdkc.com

Select the Culture and Design
If you are interested in participating, select a culture from the list below and let Rachel know your first and second choices as soon as possible. If you want to represent a culture that is not on this list, propose it to Rachel. She wants something different, something ethnic and eye-catching, something from peoples/tribes we don't normally encounter--just not the usual. She's not asking for reproductions of authentic ethnic costumes, but rather the influences.

African, American Indian, Australian, Austrian, Brazilian, Bulgarian, Canadian, Celtic, Chinese, Croatian, Czech, Danish, Dutch, Egyptian, Finnish, French, German, Greek, Hawaiian, Indian, Irish, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Kuna Indian, Maori, Mexican, Nepalese, Norwegian, Pakistani, Persian, Peruvian, Filipino, Romanian, Russian, Scottish, Spanish, Swedish, Thai, Tibetan, or Turkish.

I can recommend one book, will show others at other times. I do my research via Google online and sometimes find helpful photos, but my favorite resources are remarkable books. Many show photos of people in costume and you can get a sense of the embellishment. The Folkwear Book of Ethnic Clothing, Easy Ways to Sew & Embellish Fabulous Garments from Around the World is one of the few that include some how-tos. It was written by Mary S. Parker, published by Lark Books in 2002, ISBN 1-57990-510-2. The embellishment designs shown are the same as in Folkwear patterns. The point of this book is to explain how you can make a garment that "looks" like the original but uses "easy" techniques. It's a dumbing-down of the traditional. Nevertheless, it has many wonderful photos of garments and drawings of embellishment design details that you can make any way you want. I checked only on Amazon.com and found they have several copies in stock.

Correction of Last Blog Notes
Last week I listed the Goldstein Museum of Design's exhibition "Expressions of Stability and Change: Ethnic Dress and Folk Costume." Barbara Porwit, Administrator of the St. Paul, MN museum sent me a corrected web address. What I listed was an old url that might work but takes us to outdated pages. The new one is: http://goldstein.design.umn.edu

And in Other News
##Carole Parker of the Peninsula Wearable Arts group sent this from Carol Woods: Anyone going to France anytime soon? You might want to take a look at this exhibit. www.chateauversailles.fr/en/0_Court_Pomp.php

##Bohemian Element is a vendor of world textiles, patterns and more. www.bohemianelement.comThey are holding a Sit n'Sew event on March 27 & 28 · $55 Sheraton Tucson 5151 E. Grant Road, Tucson, AZ.
* March 27 - Crazy Quilt Purse, 9:30 am - 4:00 pm Learn Crazy Quilt Paper Piecing and make a wonderful bag, includes kit, lunch and door prizes. Use wonderful ethnic fabrics, silks, ikats, batiks!
* March 28 - Surface Design, 9:30-11:30 Using Paintstix, stencils and woodblocks, create beautiful and unique fabrics. Use these to make a fast and easy card case in class. A light continental breakfast, door prizes, and shopping will make a fun morning!
* March 28 - Fiber Art & Textile Show (trunk show) · $25 12:30 pm -4:30 pm Hands-on Demonstrations and Make-and-Takes. Fabrics and Embellishments from all over the world.
* April 3 & 4 - Bohemian Element & Philip J Mertens trunk show of Beads, Findings, Jewelry, and Textiles (Old and New), 10:00-5:00 at UN Center/Unicef, 6242 E Speedway Blvd, Tucson AZ 85712 520-881-7060 www.untucson.org

Folkwear Patterns, Museum News, Patsy Monk

2009-03-14T03:04:00.000-07:00

Kate Mathews wrote to me this week. Kate owns Folkwear Patterns. Whether or not you're familiar with Folkwear patterns, do spend time at the website. Originally the patterns were mostly of ethnic clothing, but now include other categories. They include instructions for embellishment. You're getting the real thing so you can learn the techniques of various old cultures. I love these patterns for their authenticity. I bet one of the most popular is the Tibetan Panel Coat, or the Turkish Coat. They're a staple of the wearable art fashion shows because you can combine so many fabrics and techniques in either one to make a timeless and stylish garment. Most of the ethnic patterns are based on the rectangle, in the width of fabric woven by that culture. I recommend you cut the pieces out of muslin or plain cotton, baste them together and check the fit. It doesn't have to be a major process, you just want to make sure that you are sewing to the right size. You don't want to find out it's too small after you've done all the embroidery. www.folkwear.com (Be sure to visit the Gallery.)

The latest news about Folkwear Patterns is that two re-published oldies but goodies are on their way. #110 Little Kittel (children's sizes 4-10),
and #148 Black Forest Smock (Misses' 6-16, Men's 36-44) have been out of print since the early 1980s. Traditional smocks like these for girls and boys, women, and men were worn by workers and craftsmen in Germany, Switzerland, France, and other parts of Old Europe. (Now they're back in style!) The loose-fitting garment is pleated into neckband and cuffs. Adult sizes have welt pockets; child's sizes have inseam pockets. Make it in shirt or dress length for any season, in cotton batiste this summer or baby-wale corduroy this fall.

Kate Mathews also writes a newsletter which she sends out as email. You can sign up for Kate's newsletter by sending an email message to kate@folkwear.com with "Email newsletter" in the Subject line. The following is a sampling of her news:

**"The Los Angeles County Museum of Art is putting serious resources into expanding its already-impressive costume and textile collection. The spectacular popularity of recent exhibitions across the country has encouraged museum officials to add quality pieces to an often-ignored area. The Museum will debut an important new exhibit of European garments next year and has formed an elite group of patrons to help expand the museum's collection. Visit www.lacma.org for more information." (Browse the Costume and Textiles Collection and look at the Collection Highlights for photos of spectacular clothes.)

**"The Brooklyn Museum www.brooklynmuseum.org has transferred its renowned costume and accessories collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It will be incorporated into the Met's Costume Institute, but will be identified separately as the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection. The bulk of Brooklyn Museum's world-famous holdings have been in storage for years, lacking adequate resources for proper exhibition. The two museums are planning a co-published book about the highlights of the combined collection and an online directory."

Kate says "Get some inspiration if you're out and about. If you are traveling this spring/summer or have guests visiting you, you might want to see some of these interesting events:

**"The Art of the Embroiderer, featuring dazzling garments and textiles from across the world spanning more than 200 years of creativity and innovation. From haute couture gowns to Japanese kimono and Saudi Arabian caftans, 18th century coats and vests, robes and tunics from Turkey, Morocco, Spain, Greece, China, Romania, and India. At the Kent State University Museum in Kent, Ohio, through August 30. www.kent.edu/museum

**"Sartorial Sanctuary: Clothing and Tradition in the Eastern Islamic World, an exploration of the range of garment styles, colors, and motifs worn by Muslim men and women across the eastern reaches of the Islamic world, from Syria and Turkey to India and Indonesia. At the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, through April 26. www.risdmuseum.org

**"Expressions of Stability and Change: Ethnic Dress and Folk Costume. Garment ensembles from Bhutan, India, Afghanistan, China, Somalia, Cameroon, Egypt, Norway, Portugal, Laos, Mexico, Guatemala, and other countries to illustrate how traditional costume is used as a form of cultural expression and unification. Through June 14, at the Goldstein Museum of Design, University of Minnesota, St. Paul. http://goldstein.che.umn.edu (Check out the collections too.)

**"Seduction, a chronological survey of 250 years of seductive clothing, featuring a black satin Belle Époque corset, silk jersey evening dress by Halston, black leather evening gown by John Galliano for Christian Dior, Manolo Blahnik stilettos, other garments and accessories. Through June 16 at Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. www.fitnyc.edu

**"The Art of Affluence: Haute Couture & Luxury Fashions 1947-2007, featuring fashions from the museum's collection by Chanel, Schiaparelli, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Patou, Versace, Armani, and others. Through May 2, at the Mint Museum of Art in Charlotte, NC. www.mintmuseum.org

**"Fashioning Felt, an exhibition of historic examples of felt as well as contemporary product design and applications in fashion, architecture, and home furnishings. Through September 7, at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, New York City. www.cooperhewitt.org"

In My Own News
Not much sewing going on here this week. I had positioned cotton fabric onto a sweatshirt, using temporary fabric glue. I was following instructions in a pattern I'm going to tell you about. The glue stays up to 5 days. Well, we're into day 7, I checked today and the glue has disappeared, so I'm going to have to do it all over again, sigh. Mom's been sick, both cats had to go to the vets, and I've been both taking care of the stray and looking for the owner or someone willing to take the cat. No time left to sit at the sewing machine, but I have high hopes for next week. I'd better respray the glue before we get rain on Sunday. I do my spraying outside.

##I go way back with Patsy Monk. She was my second subscriber when I had started my newsletter on paper. She was a quilter then and gave quilting classes. We took a color class in Houston from Jean Ray Laury where Patsy did well and I failed miserably which is why I'm still learning to trust my color choices. Now Patsy writes to say she's deeply immersed in making glass beads. I found the little birds enchanting, so do have a look. (Click on the little photo to get an enlargement.) It would be nice to hear that people are not only reading this blog but also checking out the websites. You will find Patsy's work at: www.artfire.com

Inspiration from Quilting Arts Magazine and more

2009-03-08T03:47:00.000-07:00

This cute little guy is the reason why I'm behind with everything! He's Harley for harlequin, all black and white with perfectly symmetrical "color blocking." After a month of seeing him around, we finally decided that Harley is a stray looking for a home. Unfortunately, my two adult cats refuse to let him set foot in their territory, but he sneaks in just the same. Night-time temperatures dropped to freezing, it rained for days, and I heard the raccoons and smelled the skunks moving through the backyard, so Harley moved into the garage where he has a soft bed and lots of food. Now my trick is to keep the other cats from seeing this sweet, gentle, well-mannered cat. Chessie attacks if he can,"I know you're doing something nefarious down there mom. I know something is going on--where is he?" Harley stays quiet in the garage and so maybe I won't get a lot of vertical spraying in the house. Anybody looking for this cat?

When my husband's chronic illness finally sank in as our new reality, and I started packing, house-hunting, and then moving us slowly, I really missed sewing, writing, and my whole creative process. Looking back now, I realize that the doing had stopped, but the learning continued. When I was most down, when I most missed color, and my sewing machine was in the closet of the new house 200 miles away, it was tough. What got me through it was Quilting Arts magazine and Cloth Paper Scissors magazine. Patricia Bolton, her husband, and staff continue to find and present the leading edge of art quilting, mixed media, surface design, and "artistic discovery." They kept (and keep) me breathless with innovation and inspiration. I'm finding out that there are still folks who haven't discovered them so here's your introduction. http://www.quiltingarts.com http://www.clothpaperscissors.com. I will write later about their other magazines. I will also tell you that except for Stitch magazine, you're not going to find wearable art, just pure inspiration and sometimes techniques that can go through the wash. I would never have thought to applique a crow onto anything I wear, but the enchanting designs made me do it. I'll show you when I finish.

Recently I told you about Pamela Allen's DVD. CQFA (California Quilt and Fiber Association) is hosting a Pamela Allen workshop on April 17 and 18, 2009 at the Community Church of Santa Clara. (directions: http://cqfa.org/meetings.html) The workshop is on the same topic as the DVD, "How to Think Like an Artist" but will focus on each person developing a personal voice and private language. See the description on Pamela's website: http://pamed.homestead.com/home.html To quote Pamela, "There are two parts to every art quilt...one is the technical expertise of stitching, applique, quilting, blocking, binding. And we all continue to improve in this category simply by making work. The other side...the ART part...is more ephemeral and esoteric perhaps, as it requires many years of questioning, risk taking and imagination to develop.... Students will hone in on the whole process of art-making using a series of hands on exercises which focus on the important elements of creativity. Each morning and afternoon, the class will work on projects that address certain problems faced by every artist." Boy, don't I wish I could go to that one! To reserve a space send a check for $155, payable to CQFA, to Julie Stiller, 1251 Highland Drive, Boulder Creek, CA 95006. This price includes a one year membership in CQFA! No machines are required.

When I wrote about Therese May in an earlier note, I neglected to include the url for one more website. This one includes her interesting blog as well as photos from her present exhibition at the Triton Museum in Santa Clara, CA, and more works. I was just thinking how interesting would be fabric printed with some of her designs. www.theresemay.com

Remember my note about Margot Silk Forrest and her embellished shoes? Margot is now writing a blog for her business, Sassy Feet! Check out her stories and tips at http://glittersweatshop.typepad.com Now she's convinced me to buy Steve Madden hightops and embellish to my heart's content. I want shoes with comfort but also flair and sass, so this might be the way to get what I want. Time to start collecting the right trims.

Information from Hither and Yon, West Coast USA

2009-03-02T23:12:00.001-08:00

Before I present yet another mixed list of resources, I hope you agree with me that the more you look at, and play with, different forms of art, the better your own work. You might be surprised at what I list here, but I found for example, that even though I will likely never do more goldwork than what I did in a class, it reminded me once again how satisfying painstaking handwork can be. And it satisfied my curiosity about goldwork. Beautiful but not washable! And that gold is expensive! It has brought me back to my old ideas of doing embroidery on my wearable art. I don't need to follow current trends of doing everything by machine. I like to go slow, make changes in design as I go along, and it's a prime form of releasing stress (especially in front of a boring tv). Anyhow, for that reason I'm offering up a potpourri of workshops I wish we could all attend, and some online shopping to tempt you too.

## Shibori: Pressure-Resist Fabric Dyeing with Joy-Lily, workshop on Saturday March 28, 10 - 4 PM at Sebastopol Center for the Arts, 6780 Depot St. Sebastopol, CA. Here's a description of shibori from Joy-Lily:
"Pressure-resist is probably the oldest method used world-wide for dyeing colors into fabric. In Japan it is called shibori, in Indonesia pelangi, in India banda, in South America amarras, in Nigeria onikon, and in the U.S, tie-dye. Stitch, wrap, pleat, bind, clamp, bunch, fold or knot cotton, silk, rayon challis, linen, bamboo or hemp. In the dyebath, little or no color flows into the tightly compressed areas. The resulting patterns clearly show where the dye goes and where it is resisted. Re-dye the same fabric in another color with a different resist and the results get very exciting!" In this workshop we'll use color-fast dye, mostly Procion MX. We'll also do some painted shibori using the new vinyl-sulphon dyes (they replace Procion H dyes, now discontinued.) $80 + $5 supply fee (includes a silk scarf). To register: 707 829-4797 www.sebarts.org

## Search on Google for Procion H. You will find excellent information about the new vinyl-sulphon dyes that replace it in Paula Burch's website http://www.pburch.net--move down the page to find the Dyer's Forum questions and answers. The Jacquard site www.jacquardproducts.com has information, paint, dye, fabric and other art products, and just as important, an inspiring gallery including wearable art.

## Silk painting classes by Susan Louise Moyer, author of SILK PAINTING, The Artist's Guide to Gutta and Wax Resist Techniques and the new revised edition of SILK PAINTING for FASHION and FINE ART. (Both fabulous books but I especially like the last one.)
5-Day Workshop, Gualala, CA, April 13-17, 2009, Monday-Friday 9am-4pm DyeColor� Painting on Silk
Watercolor enthusiasts as well as silk painters will find this workshop to be a departure from tradition and an inspiration for new directions. The technique called DyeColor� painting on silk involves preparing the surface of the silk so that liquid dyes can be applied to the silk without the use of a linear resist. DyeColor� painting techniques are similar to the way watercolor is painted on paper. As a surface to work on, silk enables the artist to achieve luminous rich color and new creative options. For example, gutta and wax resist techniques, flowing dye, and discharge techniques can be combined with DyeColor� painting on the same work of art.
We will start by setting up our palette and learning a color theory system that will assist you in mixing clear, bright and in some cases glowing color. I will teach traditional watercolor and silk painting techniques related to DyeColor� painting including washes, shading, blending, wet-in-wet, stenciling and wax resist.
Workshop: $500, Materials fee: $65 Level: Novice-Advanced, no more than 12 students. Phone: 707 884-1138 E-mail: info@GualalaArts.org www.gualalaarts.org

## I don't wear makeup or a lot of jewelry but every time I've gone to Houston I felt I needed earrings. I always ended up in Meg Hannann's booth because what she made was both original and light--and invariably she had something that was a perfect match to my latest piece of wearable art. I found two pairs of earrings in this still unpacked house, so here's a photo. Now Meg has a website for her Fabric Jewels: www.meghannann.com. Beginning in early March she's going to start a workshop: What Color Is Your Heart? Check it out on the Workshop page! (She makes wonderful heart-shaped pieces.)

## Over the years my favorite place to hang out has been the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles. I spent many hours looking at the work of art quilt masters, getting my face in close to study their technique, trying to figure out how they chose the colors, why they put those two fabrics together, and so on. From the beginning of executive director Jane Przybysz's arrival, I knew she would be adding ethnic displays. We've already had a show of Vietnamese contemporary art clothing. Now we have "Changing Landscapes: Contemporary Chinese Fiber Art," the first exhibition of contemporary Chinese fiber art ever to travel to the United States. This exhibition, which includes 45 works of tapestry, sculpture, and mixed media by 48 artists, was created in partnership with Beijing's Tsinghua University's Fiber Arts Institute. You can see and read more at
www.SJQuiltMuseum.org. The San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles is at 520 South First Street San Jose California 95113.

## When you wander through the gift shop at the quilt museum you will see works from Therese May. I took a very freeing stamping class with Therese once, have been following her career for many years because I get an emotional reaction every time. Her style is "quirky"--paint on fabric, beading, very much contemporary folk art. A truly memorable piece was in a quilt exhibit honoring the children that died in the terror bombing in Oklahoma. I looked at all those quilts but Therese spoke to me best of all about those innocent little souls winging off to heaven--it was a very peaceful and healing piece. I have two websites where you can see Therese's works including bumper strips and a coloring book that you can buy. The second website is where Therese has listed upcoming workshops and exhibits.
www.zazzle.com/theresemay
www.quiltpower.com/Turkey_Coloring_Book.html

## Elizabeth Floyd wrote a note online that an exhibit of pojagi at the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco will start March 18 (Contemporary Korean Fiber Art--Reinterpreting the Korean Patchwork). I was introduced to pojagi by artist Jack Brockette who used the technique to perfection with his acid-dyed silk jackets www.brockette.com. Do have a look at his gallery of silk jackets. Pojagi are traditionally "wrapping cloths" made of little rectangles of fabric, sewn together with something like 1/8" French seams so that all seams are delicately finished. I'm going to plan to go to this show in San Francisco and will report back. I wish you were going with me Jack!