Goodbye to Emma Allebes

Emma Allebes, Artist and Bernina Fashion Designer
Our dear Emma Allebes, an unforgettable Fairfield and Bernina fashion show designer, died of leukemia on October 6, 2009. So much of my stuff is still packed away, but I found a photo album and there was Emma. I think this might have been taken in the year 2000 at the wonderful quilt show we used to have in Marin county. Emma had requested that flowers at her service be tied with black and white checked ribbons. It's serendipity that I have her photo in those checks!

I always remember her NY taxi cab outfit, and the pearly queen (like they have in England). I hope she enjoyed sewing on buttons! She and I met at the party after a Bernina show, both of us feeling a bit shy and out of place, so we spent much of the evening talking and from then on delighted in running into each other. I won't go on, you can read wonderful things about Emma at emmaallebes.blogspot.com. What a wonderful idea for her daughter Shenna to put up the blog so her wide circle of friends and family could come together in thought.

Here is the jacket that won Emma a red ribbon that year in Marin. Her work was impeccable. Look at the variety of techniques she put into a cohesive whole. At first you just see the intricate, traditional piecing but it is combined in such a variety of sizes and blocks and fabric variations, that it does not look very traditional. It doesn't look bulky or bumpy, and then you see the manipulations with various prairie points and beads.


Always lovely work! I will try to post more photos of her work as I collect them.





More of My Ethnic Embroidery
I stopped working on my vest. Between cats and a new job and the caretaking life, I just didn't have the time or energy to work on the vest for Rachel Clark's exhibit. I had done all that research and all that planning and drawing, but I didn't have chunks of time to work on it. At first it was the sciatica that brought me down. It was too painful to stand at the cutting table, all summer long. I didn't cut anything this year while the sun was shining outside. But I did go to physical therapy and now the pain is gone and the energy is back but I'm out of time. Still, I keep plugging away, hoping to finish something, exhibit or not. My plans have evolved to where I'm no longer thinking in terms of the traditional Polish beaded little vest with peplum. This is good, it just took time to come out.



For now, here's a photo of my embroidery over waste canvas and the end result. Getting the canvas was hard enough. Then I didn't want to take the time to baste it down (time being of the essence) so you see I pinned it down to the hooped fabric. I'm stitching on black silk noil. The thread is DMC 5 Pearl Cotton, and I'm using 8.5 threads to the inch waste canvas.

All this worked just fine though I think a finer thread would have been even better. What didn't work well was my mind. The chart wasn't totally clear and I made mistakes. Next time I will chart on graph paper. That way I'll know when a square refers to a cross stitch and when it means to make an open square. Live and learn.

The Holidays are Coming
In the spirit of the holiday season being upon us, I thought I wouldn't so much do in-depth reviews as let you know what has excited me out there.

The Knitter's Handbook
has been out for a number of years but I think well worth mentioning. It is a small book that you can tuck into your purse or knitting bag for quick reference. There are clear little drawings and short explanations. There are things here I didn't even know I need to know. Just a helpful little book when you can't get to your big reference books. I received it from the people who put out Knitter's Magazine. The Knitter's Handbook, XRX Books, Inc., PO Box 1525 Sioux Falls, South Dakota. 2005. ISBN 1-893762-21-1. www.knittinguniverse

Now why have I been thinking about knitting when I haven't been able to knit or crochet in years (worked at it too hard and hurt my hands)? It all started with spring photos of little lambs being bottle-fed and twins in the field with their mothers. I was hooked on this blog about a farm. getting-stitched-on-the-farm.blogspot.com. Soon I discovered that I've known about Kristen for years. This week I gifted myself with Color by Kristen. It arrived yesterday and oh my, am I glad! It practically forces me to start knitting again.

When you read Kristen's blog (go back through the archives) you learn how she travelled the world and collected ethnic textiles. You should see the socks she picked up in Greece! These textiles inform her work and this book really shows it off. Wait until you see the kimono shaped jacket! This is Fair Isle knitting and she promises to teach us an easy way to do it. I won't spoil the effect. It's colorful, it looks intricate, it definitely looks ethnic, and I love it. The rest of the book is a mix of mittens, tea cozies, children's and adults' sweaters and slippers, scarves and pillows. It's all bright and happy, just my cup of tea! Colors by Kristen, How to Design Your Own Beautiful Knits by Kristen Nicholas. Sixth&Spring Books, 233 Spring St., New York, NY 10013.2009. ISBN 978-1-933027-83-8. www.sixthandspringbooks.com If you want an autographed copy, go to Kristen's blog to place your order. She and the farm would appreciate it.

I have much more to tell you about but Lolalee still wakes me up too early and I'm tired. I'm the new part-time editor of the newsletter for the Textile Arts Council at the de Young museum in San Francisco. It fits so well with my own interests! I'm also editing a quilt pattern for a first time designer, so my time is full. I'll leave you tonight with the latest photo of our 3 month-old kitten, and how fall looks in Hidden Valley Lake.

It rained last week so the grasses have started to grow even as the leaves are falling down. Till we meet again, Rosalie

Artwear-related Sales and Great Viewing

Quality Fabric Sale!
Tonight I'm doing a bit of artwear catch-up. First, a fabulous fabric sale. The online store is closing and what's left is 75% off. I was too late for the silk dupioni and many other fine fabrics, but I left you some of what's left and there's plenty in colorways that don't appeal to me. I'm considering going back for the cotton baptiste. They're going to send what's left to jobbers so hurry and give your stash a Christmas present. www.buttonsnboltsfabrics.com

Kayla Kennington, Bernina designer extraordinaire
Kayla Kennington was at PIQF so we had a chance to chat. She's had a lot going on in her life so she hasn't had time or energy to put up a photo of her latest pattern. But here it is, the Kwan Yin Kimono, #511. I brought it home, had a good look, and can't wait to sew it up. The drawing isn't very clear but it's another of her Modular Design Garments--a type of kimono that ties at the side. Gussets help create that floating points look at the sides. It's more of Kayla's signature style which is to use rectangles of fabric and combine them with little thread tacks (and sometimes beads) to create garments. I'm not explaining this as beautifully as it looks, but if you read Threads magazine, you would have read about the technique ages ago, also her fabric collage technique that creates new fabric yardage from silk scraps. (I tried it and it isn't as easy as it looks!) Kayla had to stop dyeing her fabrics because she was having a reaction to the dyes. Now she has found metal-free acid dyes that don't harm her--Greener Shades. I bought a batch because I'm always aware of the need for safety in using dyes. I especially don't use them anywhere near my cats or birds. These are for animal and other protein fibers and nylon so I won't be using them on my cottons. You can order the pattern and dyes directly from her. Go to her website to get an eyeful! www.kaylakennington.com

High Fiber Under Five
The San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles is running its annual fundraiser, High Fiber Under Five, an invitational benefit art sale, November 3-8. This is your one chance to see and acquire amazing works from some of fiber arts' luminaries. Go to their site to see the details and to see the wearable art by Carol Lee Shanks, Caryne Finlay Mount, and Latifa Medjdoub. Carol Lee always surprises me with her designs. I've been to her Open Studio and she gets mobbed. What looks "different" on the hanger is quite lovely on the body. I always remember her white clothes so was surprised to see these indigo pieces. And as for Caryne, I was there when she created those pieces for a one-woman show. Mostly Caryne works with old kimono which she reworks into intriguing coats. But for that show Caryne created the "kimono" shapes from scratch. The multi-colored patchwork coat she first hand-dyed the fabrics. The white one she crocheted. She worked like a fiend, using all the techniques many of us know and barely use. I wonder if I can find my photos from that exhibit--packed away somewhere. In any case, here's your chance to buy one of these creations for yourself. www.sjquiltmuseum.org

Holly Badgley
Yet another sale--Art Reception, Vintage and Ethnic Textile Show & Sale at Sync Salon, 170 Columbus Ave at Pacific, San Francisco. Monday November 16, 5 to 9 pm. RSVP 415-397-1078 or syncsalon@gmail.com. This is a regular art event. I don't know all the participants but I do know Holly Badgley. Fabulous handpainted coats and jackets. I hadn't seen her in a few years and my reaction to what's online is that it's better than ever! www.hollybadgley.com

Coco Chanel
Last month I went to a one-woman show about Coco Chanel. I had no idea what to expect, but because I knew mom is a big fan of Chanel, I took her for a night out. She was enthralled! And I was so enchanted by what Annette Baldwin can do on stage, that I want to see it again. Annette Baldwin is a historical actress which means she researches characters she wants to portray, writes the play, and then takes it on the road herself. With nothing more than a simple stage setting of chair and table, she gives us a sense of who the person was. We hear Chanel's opinions and about her attitudes, both about life and her fashion ideas. All this from a woman dressed in a Chanel suit. Then Baldwin presents slides from that life, specifically the clothes Chanel designed. Finally, Baldwin has slides to demonstrate the effect Coco Chanel has had on fashion through the years. We all wear Chanel now. I really liked that final part--and then there was a Q & A session that was also very informative. Annette Baldwin works via her company, Moments in Time. She knows fashion because she worked for Lord & Taylor for many years. I can't remember for sure, but I think she said she used to go to Fashion Week and such, so she was highly immersed in fashion. I recommend her production to wearable art groups, to fashion groups like the ASG, and to fashion departments in schools. She would do well on a large stage also, but I want you to know that this would be suitable for a presentation at a meeting. www.staginghistory.com

Marcy Tilton November Newsletter
Go to Marcy Tilton's website and look for her November newsletter (listed on left side). Marcy talks about her long list of Vogue patterns and recommends fabrics you might use for each one. These are the fabulous, quality fabrics that she sells on her site. She also talks about how she has embellished or enhanced her versions of her own patterns. Interesting reading and lots of wearable art ideas--I have to come back when I can spend the time. I bought her most recent pattern and hope the stretch fabric I have will take stencils. I don't want a shiny all black jacket, but an all-over handmade print would be fun. www.marcytilton.com

New Vogue Patterns for Artwear

Vogue Patterns is selling their newest patterns online for $5.99 for two days. (If you miss this one, you'll get another chance soon.) Now that they've turned to new and avant garde designers, I'm paying closer attention to what works for wearable art. The sale is just today and tomorrow at www.voguepatterns.com Here's what caught my eye, not in any special order:

Vogue 1142: Issey Miyake top and pants. The top is loose and pleated, perfect for summer or evening and would be further enhanced if you use hand-dyed or hand-painted fabric, stencilled it, added some beads or crystals at the neck, or even added embroidery to the fabric. It could be overkill to do more to this pattern but if you want to enter a wearable art competition, close to overkill is the name of the game.

Vogue 1146: Koos van den Akker coat. As is his style, he has broken up the interior of a simple pattern with circles and lines. The basic coat has a high yoke. Those of us who like patchwork or applique get guidance on placement of pieces. I have yet to make one of his garments, but I will because they do speak to me. I know if I don't buy the pattern, I'll wish later that I had it so that went into the cart.

Vogue 1135: Chado Ralph Rucci. It could be that you need a lithe body to wear this black asymmetrical dress, but maybe the details will allow for much. It's made from fabric with four-way stretch. The big deal is the horizontal shaped tucks sewn in all the way down the dress. I didn't buy the pattern but am so tempted just because I'd love to try it. This is the kind of dress that's a winner on its own but would be great for under a show-stopping coat or jacket.

Vogue 1144: Chado Ralph Rucci jacket and pants. Yes, from the front it looks like a mix of Chanel jacket/Mao jacket/military jacket. It has a high collar and four patch pockets. The big deal for me is that both the front and back are padded with batting. So first, if you like to make clothing with batting, here's a stylish pattern that is very different from the usual quilted clothing. Second, he makes this in silk doupioni. I figure the purpose of the batting is to keep some stiffness in the body which protects the perfectly smooth sheen of the doupioni. I doubt he was thinking bulk or warmth. Then he has lovely curved seams in the back. I just had to see what was going on here. The collar and sleeve bands are channel-quilted. I was also interested in the pants. They're narrow with a seam front and back. In front the seam opens in a curved line over the foot. Years ago I learned that the best fitting pants had seams front and back. Too much detail here for surface design unless you work within the design. BTW he also adds hand-picked stitching around the pockets, etc.

Vogue 8626 and Vogue 8616: Vogue now has patterns that offer A,B,C, and D cups. I went for the princess seam coat because it's one of those perfect designs for timeless fashion. I can do anything I want to the fabric, add any textures, and they won't be lost in the coat. It has a pleated back but I can eliminate that if surface design demands it. I want the princess seam for 4 cup sizes so I don't have to mess with adjustments much. Then I also picked the t-shirt with a very high neck. It's different, yet harking back to high necked tops I wore in winter. I'm curious how they size this close-fitting shirt for a D cup.

Vogue 7975: Vogue also offers a Chanel-style jacket. Once I adjust the princess seams on the coat pattern, I'll expect to apply them to this jacket which comes only in B cup, and have a pattern ready to go for when I need something ultra-creative. I'm thinking of printing up some of my own fabric with dyes, stencils, and beads then sewing up a simple jacket like this one. Wait till you see my photos of Sylvia Polk's entry at PIQF. If she can do it, I can certainly try!

Vogue 1145: Lynn Mizono's pattern for a coat which is likely based on a circle. That's what she used to do and I loved it. They show only one way to wear it in the pattern graphic, but the photo shows a more exciting version. I remember she said her customers always taught her new ways to wear her designs. As to her other patterns, I bought them months ago--I wouldn't miss them for the world.

Vogue 8620: This is yet another jacket from Marcy Tilton. I like the shape of it, especially from the side view. Not sure what happens when I try to adjust the bust line. I figure I'll be lowering the high waist line. But what's special is this is the pattern where Marcy gets to teach how to do silk screen printing. Just as I was having to stop publishing my newsletter, Marcy was feeling out the idea of creating her own silk screens (excellent idea!). She has a lovely collection now--go see them at www.marcytilton.com. You will see the screens she uses on this pattern.

I'll be back here soon, just need to get photos found and organized. cheers, Rosalie

Shows to See (and Shop)

"Signatures" Fashion Show and Champagne Luncheon will be held on Sunday, November 8, 2009, 12:30pm - 3:00pm, at the Palos Verdes Art Center, in Palos Verdes, CA (in the Los Angeles area). (postcard design by Justine Limpus Parish)
Justine Limpus Parish will be showing her Fall/Holiday Collection among 22 artists in this group show. Featured are elegant and unusual wearables from clothing, accessory, and jewelry designers. Special performance by swing and ballroom dancers will be part of the show which also includes a runway fashion show and designer boutique. Tickets: $35 - advanced purchase required
charge by phone - call PVAC 310-541-2479 Ext 302
www.artists-studio-pvac.com
I've seen photos from past shows as well as knowing several of the artists involved. This is quality, upscale wearable art! Hope you can go!

This is the weekend of both the International Quilt Festival in Houston and the Pacific International Quilt Festival in Santa Clara. Both have photos and lists of winners online so check their websites until you find it all. Houston is www.quilts.com. I didn't check but heard that they already are showing winning quilts and wearables. The wearables would be from the IQF show since the Bernina show is no more. I also wish they could show the garments from the luncheon where people like you and me are willing to show their work. Often this is how people progress to making Fairfield/Bernina garments--no telling what will replace that quality of show and garments. I like to watch the Houston videos of the shows. Not like being there but at least you have some sense of what you're missing.

PIQF in Santa Clara www.quiltfest.com had last year's winning wearables up today, and will eventually show this year's winners. I had a bronchitis and diabetic setback today so didn't leave the house, but plan to be there tomorrow, photographing as much as possible. Stay tuned for my take on it. I'll be missing Karen Boutte's fashion show where she rounds up various locals who make wearable art. I always like to go to see what people are making in the area but these days I have to be home earlier. If you're there and take pictures, or even if you could just tell me about it, I would really appreciate it so I can share the evening with everyone. You can find me on Facebook if you don't find my email address via the blog.

Add Color to Our Lives
Since I was at home today on a rainy day when I wished I could be out shopping, I spent a bit of time daydreaming at the computer and found things of interest to us. There is a source out of Sag Harbor NY for Marimekko fabric and Unikko bedding etc. Check out the Textile Arts website: http://store.txtlart.com/info.html I love the tablecloths and the bedding fabrics and am tempted to get them for yardage. Oops, until I saw the price. Oh well. Maybe I can ask for a Christmas present of a yard of fabric ($42/yd). Love those huge blue and red flowers!

WOW in New Zealand
The 21st Montana World of WearableArt (WOW) Awards were announced on Friday, Sept. 25. They had 165 garments entered this year. The Supreme Montana WOW Award went to David Walker of Juneau, Alaska for his 17th Century ball gown "Lady Of The Wood." The piece is made entirely of mahogany and lacewood with 52 strips of maple and cedar veneer for the hooped skirt. The wig is made out of wood shavings. Walker is a carpenter who has been creating Wearable Art for ten years. I'm looking forward to learning more about him.

I Found WOW Photos!
I found photos, titled One Weird and Wearable Festival! David Walker's piece is among the 31 photos. Some of these designs are really worthy of note as garments. I loved some of the effects and styles. I look forward to finding more photos and getting some details. http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/travel/one-weird-and-wearable-festival/20091005-gj1b.html?selectedImage=30

As long as you're looking at this slide show from Australia, look at the menu below it to find photos from the Paris runways. If you haven't seen McQueen's egg-shaped 10" heels, here's your chance. Dangerous to walk in but certainly eye-catching. www.smh.com.au/photogallery/lifestyle/fashion/paris-fashion-classic-v-fantastic/20091007-gmu2.html

Lolalee aka Lucy-fur
As you see, Lolalee is right there with mom even when falling asleep. She's resting on a new book which is sitting on top of my box of new Jacquard Indigo dyes. Smart kitty! And yes, she does have tortoiseshell attitude! I tried to catch her when she droops in sleep but I caught her drifting off--close enough without tormenting her.

Of Artwear and Cats Too

Book Review of Silk Unraveled
When my sweet cockatiel Moe is flopping around having a seizure, and when the new kitten Sammy shows symptoms of a fatal virus, I need to sit down and look at photos with intense color, to kind of match my intense feelings. Just such a book is Silk Unraveled, Experiments in Tearing, Fusing, Layering & Stitching by Lorna Moffat. Dragon Theads Ltd., 490 Tucker Drive, Worthington, OH 43085. ISBN#978-099641201-0-5 www.dragonthreads.com The cover drew me in and the photos inside made me sing. Somewhere I read a review of this book that said something like, "There's nothing new here--I've seen all this before." I too had a sense of deja vu but you have to look deeper. What you've seen before, particularly in British craft books, could be this author's work. Do I recommend this book? I do, for the color and for the encouragement to experiment with silk--as in don't treat it like a precious fabric. Does it have fresh, new ideas? Well, they were fresh and new techniques some years back, but I like being reminded that I haven't even tried them all. The projects here use torn silk, fused silk, reverse applique, and layered silk. Will this work for wearable art? Of course, almost every idea whether for pillows or quilts can be adapted one way or another. But in fact, Lorna presents an idea for a kimono design, and a reverse applique vest. I do like her designs which I will adapt by using smaller sizes. Although she shows us photos of ethnic designs that she found in her travels and that inspired her, these are her interpretations.

There are many ways to create new fabrics and textures using scraps. I can see elements of the Spirals & Flowers Throw as a jacket. Stunning in fact. I really like some of her designs--they're included for us to trace. I'm torn about the recommendation. If you don't like loose threads and raw edge applique, you might wonder why I like this book. Yes, that torn or raw-edge technique looks sloppy (especially for silk) although it's also part of a style that was and is still popular. I like most of the designs and wouldn't waste my silk threads--in other words I'm inclined to do applique that will protect the edges. I dislike satin stitching so maybe I'd go to turning under edges or using my favorite machine small-blanket stitch. It gives a different look but could be a preferable one--this is where you experiment and make it your own. I consider this book inspiring and offering designs for when I draw a blank. As to the instructions, Lorna uses some British terms most of us are used to (gilet for a type of vest). This isn't a book for beginners because it doesn't teach the basics, but anyone who wants to experiment could manage well enough with what's here. Great up-close photos, bright colors, rich variety of exotic designs, and encouragement to try all kinds of silks--that's what I like about this book!

Continued Sampling of Last Bernina Show Garments
Debi Kuennen-Baker, Bernina Designer
In my last post somehow I missed that I had a photo of the back of Debi Kuennen-Baker's jacket in my files. See my last post for views of the front. What Debi "asks" is do we have to have a dull, almost invisible undercollar on a big fabulous collar? Obviously Debi doesn't think so. I find her choice to be startling, but it does make you take notice and think. She also raises the issue of matching sleeves. I hadn't noticed the difference from the front. That makes this jacket even more unusual and interesting. I like how the rose embroidery on the back is somehow slimming and blends the print into the plain black. Meryl Ann Butler took and sent these photos from the Bernina Show at the Quilt Festival in Long Beach--please review my last post for details.

Sharon Sawa, Bernina Designer
This very basic shape is Sharon Sawa's coat. Pieced from black and white fabrics, she appliqued colorful floral designs with variegated thread satin stitched edges. To me it looks like Sharon used all-over freemotion quilting in a sawtooth motion.
I wish I had the official notes that came with these garments since I don't have immediate access to these designers. The tunic underneath looks like a drapey rayon. There is variegated thread trim alongside the zipper and a few beads at the top and bottom of the inset waistband. I think matching beads are placed on the neck binding as well. The print looks too big for short-me, but I'd like to make and wear something similar, with proportionally-sized appliques for my stature. Sorry, I don't have a back view. I was just thinking that if the appliques were much smaller, they wouldn't balance as well against the busy black and white background. They have to be larger to stand out and be proportionally sized. It goes back to Sandra Ericson's talk about proportions which roughly said means you want to think in thirds. These appliques should be a third larger than the largest print in black and white and I think they are. Just testing my own thoughts out on you. Do you agree with this theory?

Folkwear News for Autumn
Kate Mathews (kate@folkwear.com) sent out Folkwear News for Autumn. In case you're not yet a subscriber, I'm including her list of exhibits to see now, with a few added comments from me so that you won't miss some other good stuff. The news from Kate about Folkwear Pattens (www.folkwear.com) is that they're developing a new pattern for a hat from the early 20th century (something like what Diane Keaton wore early in the film Reds). Its companion pattern: #268 Metropolitan Suit, a walking suit with military styling to the jacket and a sailor look to the blouse; the high-waisted skirt is mid-calf with a partial overskirt. Kate also added a suggestion: the pattern #148 Black Forest Smock from last month doesn't say to stitch down the small pleats at center front and back neckline, but they like the way it looked!

Events to See or Websites Worth Visiting (courtesy of Kate Matthews, www.folkwear.com)
# Dress Codes: Clothing as Metaphor, featuring 36 artists, including Louise Bourgeois and Nick Cave, who use the idea and form of clothing to explore social and global issues in their work. Katonah Museum of Art, near historic Bedford, 44 miles north of Manhattan, through October 4. www.katonahmuseum.org.

# The Perfect Fit–Shoes Tell Stories, an exhibition that looks at how shoes can tell stories, addressing topics such as gender, history, sexuality, race, class, and culture. Fuller Craft Museum, in Brockton, Massachusetts (once known as the shoe capital of the world), through January 3, 2010. www.fullercraft.org. See also Chunghie Lee: My Cup Overflows through Oct.18, 2009 Chunghie Lee is known for her pojagi, wrapping cloths used also in quilts and clothing. Note the upcoming exhibit and workshop with Nancy Crow.

# Coat Couture: Inspiration to Creation, featuring Ruth Funk's contemporary wearable art and the global textiles that inspired her, including African mud cloth, Chinese embroidery, Panamanian molas, and Asian ikats. Ruth Funk Center for Textile Arts, in Melbourne, Florida, through December 12. http://textiles.fit.edu. See also the collection gallery. Three items but beautiful.

# Fashion in Bloom, an exhibition of garments that feature flower motifs from the museum's Fashion Arts Collection. Among the designers represented are Norman Norell, Callot Soeurs, and Givenchy. Indianapolis Museum of Art, through January 31, 2010. An online tour of the exhibition gives a 360-degree view of the installation. www.imamuseum.org. Go to Textile and Fashion Arts to see a small gallery.

# Contemporary Japanese Fashion shows the radically inventive designs of Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto in this exhibit of 1970s and 1980s garments from the collection of Mary Baskett, an art dealer who has collected and worn Japanese high fashion since the 1960s. Through April 11, 2010 at The Textile Museum in Washington, DC. www.textilemuseum.org www.textilemuseum.org. There's a lot to see here--this show is under "upcoming exhibitions" but look around at the rest. There's a symposium about the evolution of Japanese clothing on October 16-18. http://www.textilemuseum.org/symposium.htm See too Fabrics of Feathers and Steel: the Innovation of Nuno. I was fascinated in an exhibit years ago, by what these folks think up as "fabric." There is much of interest coming up!

# Art of the Samurai: Japanese Arms and Armor, 1156-1868, including weapons, equestrian equipment, banners, surcoats, and accessories such as fans and batons. October 21 through January 10, 2010. Also, Tibetan Arms and Armor from the permanent collection, including decorated armor and equestrian equipment from Tibet and related areas of Mongolia and China, dating from 8th to 20th century. Through fall of 2010. Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. www.metmuseum.org.

# Gazette du Bon Ton was an early 20th century periodical that brought couturiers and painters together to promote the fashions of the time. This exhibit positions actual garments from the museum's collection with its illustrated page from the Gazette, such as a sumptuous Paul Poiret coat with a Georges Lepape drawing. Through May 30, 2010. Visit the web site to see detailed views of the exhibited items. Also, Michael Kors Designs from the Wendy Zuckerwise Ritter Collection, celebrating the designer's 30th year in the fashion industry, through November 2. Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio. http://dept.kent.edu/museum. See also the exhibit of The Art of the Embroiderer. Fabulous! The exhibit is over but they have detail photos here worth studying.

# Calder Jewelry, featuring jewelry created by sculptor and mobile-maker Alexander Calder (1898-1976) that demonstrates the artist's love of abstraction. Includes necklaces, bracelets, brooches, earrings, and tiaras that were worn by friends, family, and 20th-century cultural icons. San Diego Museum of Art, through January 3, 2010. www.sdmart.org. Check out the Dragon Robes of China's Last Dynasty. The quizzes are fun.

# Aisle Style: 150 Years of Wedding Fashion features the bride and her dress, as well as accessories, men's garments, trousseau treasures, and photographs. The show also explores wedding traditions, from orange blossoms and blue garters to the magnificent white gown. Visit the web site to see photos of the amazing array of wedding fashions. The Charleston Museum, Charleston, SC, October 16, 2009 through September 6, 2010. www.charlestonmuseum.org. Great slideshow!

# High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and Haute Couture, exhibit of high-fashion garments by Bloomingdale's favorite designers that she donated to the museum over 30 years. Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Los Angeles, through December 13. http://fidm.edu. I of course welcome any additional information about Project Runway--you'll find it here.

# The Heights of Fashion: Platform Shoes Then and Now, a look at platform footwear styles from the 1930s to the present. On the web site is a slide show of 14 images from the exhibit that will definitely take you back in time. Mint Museum of Art, Charlotte , NC through May 30, 2011. www.mintmuseum.org.

# Madeleine Vionnet: Puriste de la Mode, a retrospective celebration of the important early 20th century French designer who revolutionized women's fashion through elegant draping and use of the bias cut. Musee de la Mode and du Textile, rue de Rivoli in Paris, France, through January 31. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr. Note in my earlier post that Sandra Ericson is going and offering to explain the show.

Crocheted Elf Slippers
I haven't been saying much about knitting and crochet even though I've been paying attention. I am so grateful to Interweave Press for the really fresh design ideas in their magazines. I also like Knitters and the Fons & Porter Knitting magazine, and of course the quality in Vogue Knitting. At first, when knitting hit it big again, all I could find were tired, recycled patterns. Books I hadn't seen in years were back on the stands. Some of them are still there, and some of the magazines are putting out the same old tired ideas. But Interweave and even Knitters caught my eye pretty quickly. I have lots of books to review on the subject, but not today. Instead I want to mention the pattern I found on Facebook. It's for crocheted slippers unlike any I've seen. These I've got to make!
The designer is from Chile, but provides some instruction in English and presents the pattern in chart form (universal language) so we can all try them. http://josefinayelamanecer.blogspot.com/2009/09/pantunflas-de-peter-pan.html

Show Schedule Reminder
I'm having a hard time getting to any shows this year. My husband isn't sure he can handle all the care and feeding of the pets in this house. I'm trying to convince him I could go to PIQF for one long day. We'll see. It's the 6 hours of driving there and back that kills me and my back. I hope you don't have obstacles and can go to any of these shows (and then please let me know what you saw and did so I can live vicariously through your experiences!). I do so miss going to Houston and some of the Sewing Expos. How else can you see what's new and what everyone is doing?

International Quilt Festival
Oct 14-18, 2009, Houston, TX
www.quilts.com

Pacific International Quilt Festival (PIQF)
Oct 14-18, 2009, Santa Clara, CA
www.quiltfest.com

AQS Quilt Show
October 28-31, 2009, Des Moines, IA
www.americanquilter.com

Original Sewing and Quilt Expo
November 5-7, 2009, Minneapolis, MN
www.sewingexpo.com

Original Sewing and Quilt Expo
November 12-14, 2009, Schaumburg, IL
www.sewingexpo.com

There must be others--please let me know so I can advertise them.

Why I Haven't Posted
I'm sorry I haven't written in so long, but time has really flown recently. First there was the wait for Mediacom to fix our internet connection. Two weeks and two visits later we had a new modem. Meanwhile I started physical therapy three times a week for whatever the problem is with my sciatic nerve. It's been a summer of pain and I can't lean over the cutting table. Then I met this little guy on my way to pick up the mail.
No one in houses nearby claimed he was theirs. First we fed him, next day off to the vet, and so started our three weeks of Sam Cooke on the run in the house. If I sat at the computer he chewed on my toes or licked my chin. If he wasn't asleep, I was babysitting and medicating. Eventually I took him outside on a leash. Some people stopped by the side of our road saying they thought I have their cat. Well, as a matter of fact I did, but the vet had said he'd been neglected. Long story short, two little girls had hiked over to get their kitty back so what could I do but hand him over--and drive them home but with admonishments to their mom that he needed much more healthcare. I even offered to help. I was worried about him. But once he was gone, I finally had time again to look around online and it looks to me like he has FIP which is fatal (a virus involving peritonitis). Broke my heart!! Meanwhile I was picking away at getting this post written.

Waste Canvas
Since I was so busy with Sammy and couldn't get any fabric cutting or embroidery or sewing done, I took the time to look around for waste canvas online. Amazon advertises it as something they bring in from Joanns. But if you go to the Joann's online catalog, they don't carry waste canvas. Then I found the Create for Less site: http://www.createforless.com. They sent me an email the same day saying they had shipped my order, and it was here in two days! I was impressed. I also ordered from their long list of clearance books. Check it out. I got great service at an excellent price.

Jane Sassaman Artwear
See what Jane Sassaman is doing with her fabric designs. I call this wearable art because it's interesting how she combines fabric patterns. http://sassaman.blogspot.com/

How to Fix a Broken Heart
Finally, here's Lolalee. I picked her out of a grocery cart in the heat last Friday evening. The little girls trying to give away the cats had sprayed them with water to keep them cool. Uh oh! First I said no, I'm too vulnerable, still hurting after losing Sammy. "Oh, ok, I'll just pick up one." Uh huh, I was done! My husband wasn't pleased. Lolalee went to the vet today, seems healthy, is only 6 weeks old (and was both unweaned and not potty trained!) and is a tortoiseshell. Some people feel that this type of cat has a personality all their own--feisty, hot-tempered, and possessive of their human. Well, the last bit has shown up. How does she trust me so much so soon? Every evening so far when I sit for the 10 pm news, this little being climbs up my legs, makes herself at home on my chest and takes a nap. Adorable! And she's learned to pose already!

Project Runway
I just thought of something. Tonight was yet another episode of Project Runway on tv and I don't really care who wins. It's not in a negative sense, it's just that I like the work most of them are doing and wish they could all win. Of course they will, one way or another. I get the sense that most of them land opportunities to grow. We're not having quite the histrionics and name-calling and drama queens and I'm fine with that. I would like to see more sewing, how they manage to get those details done and so fast (invisible help?) but all in all I'm enjoying the show. How about you? Thanks for reading, Rosalie

Two Bernina Garments and More of My Vest Plans

Sampling of Last Bernina Show Garments
Bernina designer Meryl Ann Butler went to the International Quilt Show in Long Beach as Press, and on Sunday, as things were winding down, she took photos of the Bernina show garments on display for that day. She has offered us several of her photographs. I will spread them out across several blogs so as not to defeat older computers. It's exciting to see up close what we missed!

Debi Kuennen-Baker, Bernina Show Designer
The first coat is by Debi Kuennen-Baker. I'm a fan, have been gaga for many of her Fairfield and Bernina garments. She usually goes for the dramatic. This year's version is as bold as ever! Even though it "drowns out" the beautiful machine embroidered floral and scrollwork on the hips and lower sleeves, they're mostly over a black fabric so they don't disappear altogether.

I think the embroidery "lightens" the coat, modifying some of the hard edges of the graphic design. The collar is a collage of fabrics, ribbons, beads, and possibly fibrous Angelina. I do recognize the Sherrill Kahn fabrics and color combinations. I see crystals flashing from the area of the roses. The machine embroidered roses combine pink, purple, orange and yellow--very rich and beautiful. The body of the coat is quilted in multi-colored thread in a kind of swirl and flames pattern. This is a lady who likes pattern upon pattern! With all this going on, our eyes get a rest with the black and white binding around the collar. The black zigzag in the body is pretty busy because of the quilting and emboidery moving over it so that's why you don't get a rest there. I love that dramatic collar. Stunning coat! Can you make out the closures? They echo the black and white.

Janet Lasher, Bernina Show Designer
Meryl Ann also took photos of Janet Lasher's two piece gown. I don't have information about the materials used. I'm hoping to get that directly from Janet, but in the meantime we can admire her beading. When Janet and I were members of the same guild, Janet was just finding her way. We sampled various techniques and I see now from her blog (see my list of favorite blogs) that she has really moved ahead with beading as well as dyeing and silk screening. When she was in charge of the challenge one year, she gave each person a teacup of red, white, and yellow seed and bugle beads. I still have mine, maybe will get to use them up one day. It was an interesting challenge because it was so different from the usual wearable art group challenge of having to make interesting piecing using ugly fabrics. I didn't think of Janet's look except that she goes for the greens and oranges. But when I look back at her Bernina show garments, I realize that she always does "pretty" as you can see in this bustier. At first I thought she'd covered the bustier in running stitches, but after looking at three different closeups, I think those are bugle beads covering the whole bustier and then larger beads for the flowers. Lots of work and I like the texture she created!





See Janet Lasher's Etsy page: http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5346535&order=§ion_id=&page=4

Meryl Ann Butler as Author
Meryl Ann Butler writes columns for OpEdNews.com. As Press she reported what she saw at the International Quilt Festival in Long Beach in an article, "Quantum Quilting: Gramma's Craft Goes Galactic." You'll find it at http://www.opednews.com/articles/Quantum-Quilting-Gramma-s-by-Meryl-Ann-Butler-090730-670.html The article contains many photos of quilts and wearable art, well worth a visit. Meryl Ann is author of the bestseller, 90-Minute Quilts: 15+ Projects You Can Stitch in an Afternoon www.90minutequilts.com To buy the book, go to her Facebook album to see more, and get a special deal--$10 off! http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1796942&l=8aebcfc54a&id=700409527

Polish Embroidery Books
I received my embroidery books that I mentioned last time. The images are breath-taking and right now I can't do them justice in the blog--you have to go to the website to see inside. The books photographed here are what I'm sighing over now. These are collections of traditional embroidery from various regions of Poland, as documented by researchers at museums. I'm keeping this simple because I haven't read them yet. They're entirely in Polish and I read like a grade-schooler having to sound out all the long words. None of these are how-to books so it's a matter of analyzing each photo or drawing and making your own charts. However, just last night I found a how-to book within the Eastern European Art store's collection so I'm about to order it--when our rural system comes back up so I can get back online. (It's been having hiccups lately. Priscilla Kibbee can write to me from Kathmandu to tell me about her travels and shopping, but I can't always stay on to read what she has to say! Priscilla's blog is listed among my favorite blogs on this site.)

Getting an Image Onto Fabric
I could say right up front, just trace it onto net then trace through the net onto fabric. That's pretty straight-forward. But I have to get the illustration out of the book first and resize it. I've decided that for the beaded (or embroidered) goddess for my vest, I would select graph paper that most closely matches the sizes of my seed beads or cross stitches so that I can tell how large this will be if I include every detail. If I had the right photocopy machine with an enlarger and capable of taking heavy plastic, I would photocopy the graph onto plastic "overhead sheets," then lay the sheet over the book's enlarged picture and fill in the graph with a felt-tip pen. That would become my embroidery template. In my case, I first have to scan in the photo in order to enlarge it a bit. That printout can be placed under a photocopy of the graph paper, and I will be doing the design marking over a light table or holding everything up to a window.

I will then trace the image onto net (or veiling) with a Sharpie pen. I can lay the net down on the fashion fabric and use chalk to trace the lines onto the fabric. The lines will probably rub off so I'll be able to lay the net down and trace again any number of times. That's the theory. I hope to be doing this tomorrow, take photographs, and let you know how I did.

I believe I'm not breaking copyright laws because I'm not reprinting in another publication, nor am I making the garment for financial gain. I'm also using old traditional designs that belong to the ages, not someone's personal designs. This has turned into quite an adventure. The books not only provide me with garment shapes and embroidery, beading, and lace designs, but also ideas for closures and finishings. Richness beyond words. I mentioned the seller in my last blog but I'll repeat the url again because the owner tells me she's getting some fantastic books that have never made it to the US before: www.easterneuropeanart.com/store/

Shepherdess Bride Wears Artwear
For those who might have missed this as it made the rounds online, this is the English bride who is a shepherdess and raises an ancient rare breed of sheep, the Lincoln Longwool. She had her wedding gown made from the wool of her favorite sheep, Olivia, with the skirt a flowing mass of curly locks. I especially like the photo of the bride with Olivia. The groom's weskit was also woven from this wool.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1205007/Shepherdess-bride-marries-stunning-dress-wool-flock.html

Center for Pattern Design
If you are not on the mailing list for the Center for Pattern Design, I'm sharing Sandra Ericson's latest message about Pattern Design 2009 Conference in San Francisco, October 2-4, 2009. "This event will be the first time ever that pattern people will have come together from all corners of the field to talk to each other, get great ideas and share a community spirit. Pattern designers often work alone, unidentified, and yet their genius creates our most personal environment.

'We are meeting in a beautiful historic hotel and have a wonderful roster of speakers and events! Gail Gondek, pattern designer for many of the best in NY; Julian Roberts, Subtraction Cutter Extraordinaire; Josh Jakus, brain behind the Um bags, and many other interesting and very talented speakers will be there. In addition you will receive a FREE avatar of your body. This is TC2's introduction to their avatar engine, new to the garment industry."

* Conference Brochure:http://web.me.com/sfericson/CONFERENCE/Pattern_Design_Conference_Details.html

* For Registration, cost, maps, all info: http://cfpd.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=2&club_id=547206

Vionnet Visit
Meet Sandra Ericson in Paris for a Tour of the Vionnet, Puriste de la Mode Exhibit. This event is complimentary for CFPD members! Sandra will be in Paris soaking up the exhibit for a week from October 20 to 27 and would be delighted to schedule an entire afternoon at the museum exhibit with all the details gathered from her 35 years of Vionnet collecting, cutting and constructing. If interested, write to her via her website above. Limited to 20 due to logistics. No trip planning involved, just the museum part.

Draping for Design Classes
Sandra Ericson is also giving more Draping for Design classes--the next level is coming in the spring. "For those in business, the new copying law coming soon will make draping your own designs ever more important, to avoid legal repercussions."

Pattern Archives
CoPA, the Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island (RISD) is an archive of over 46,000 records and 72,000 images from 1868 to 2000 of commercial patterns--so many brands, you'll be amazed--that help researchers and designers date or recreate fashion. It is vintage nirvana! They published a CD set for $350 and now it is all online for a price. http://www.uri.edu/library/special_collections/COPA/ (Editor's Note: This link didn't work for me but for something so special it would be worth our while to search for the correct site.)

Thanks for reading. Till next time, Rosalie

Still in the Design Stage, Slow as Molasses

Researching Traditional, Ethnic Embroidery Designs
I've been doing research on traditional, Polish and Eastern European embroidery designs like never before. Today I got a book from Amazon.com that deals with the goddess figures of Eastern Europe. (Goddess Embroideries of Eastern Europe. Mary B. Kelly. Studiobooks, Box 23, McLean, NY 13102. 1989. ISBN #0-929 021-24-X) Symbolism and meanings never even crossed my mind before. This is an anthropological study, research and an analysis. I flipped through the book quickly, look forward to reading it properly, because I was enjoying the explanations of the origins of these designs, their meanings, and how designs change from realistic to abstract. But right now I just wanted designs that would help me. This is not an embroidery how-to book, but rather a discussion of the cultural elements in embroidery. Illustrations in the book are black and white etchings--just enough to give us a general idea of the original.

I immediately found a paper cutout of a Polish goddess. Two things are wonderful here. For those who don't know, I'm often referred to as a bird mom because of my long years of keeping my cockatiels happy and alive. One of these Polish goddess figures has a bird on her head and one in each hand. What could be more appropriate? Added to that I had a gap in my design for the back--I just hadn't figured out what to have at lower back. My problem is solved! I will place some form of the goddess there (with birds)!

Another book that deals with goddess figures is Embroidered Textiles by Sheila Paine. Thames & Hudson, Ltd, NY. 1990 & 2008. ISBN 978-0-500-51394-1. This is a big full-color book with many photos of examples. I can't really review it until I spend more time reading it. It does include discussions of not only goddesses but also symbols of various religions incorporated into embroidery. This book is beautiful, and I wanted it just for the photo on the cover. Many of the photos are large and clear enough that you could copy the embroidery, but this is not an embroidery how-to book.

What's Real?
So many topics, so little time. These days I've been focused on two things, feeding the souls in my care and getting to solid work on my vest. The feedings have increased. There were no finches coming around, then one day there were three. Now there are 30+ and the food disappears in nanoseconds. But what we get in return is the air between the trees full of flitting and singing gray-green finches. Meanwhile I went to the table next to the finch feeder and cut out my vest pattern in butcher paper. Now I've drawn the embroidery pattern and like it. It's not totally like so many of the Polish Krakow-region vests. I used elements of the designs I've seen but added my own style to the elements.

I have two concerns. One is that at first I was seeing mostly factory-made, contemporary versions of the women's vest. Embroidery has been replaced by rows of rick-rack. Then I see a lot of sequins and/or large gemstone beads. I'm not convinced these are correct. So I've decided to use seed beads, bugle beads, and some sequins plus hand embroidery. The second concern is that so many of these vests show off a hodge-podge of sparkly beads, without a real sense of design. Is that primitive Polish art, is it poorly made factory work, or is that what was common? I have also seen very organized designs, so what's real?

Fabulous Site for Books and Photos
I have just ordered three books of Polish embroidery. When they arrive I'll tell you all about them. I found them on eBay where the vendor (SLAVART) has put up wonderful photos from the books. This way you can see for yourself some of what I'm looking at. I can't seem to find an easy way to give you access to the eBay site so I'll give you the vendor's website--she deals in books, art, dolls, and costumes from many nations: www.easterneuropeanart.com

Only now I have a new problem of sorts. I mentioned to my mom having drawn my design and being quite pleased with it. She said sternly, "I have to see this, to make sure it isn't Americanized." Heck, I thought it was "Rosalieized"--I had drawn images of roses my way. I don't want to use the normal daisies. I might just have to not show her my design until it's sewn and beaded!! Tomorrow I hope to find a very large frame at the Michaels store where I've seen them in the past. My biggest embroidery frame is 17" square and I need something 24 inches wide and almost as long. I was going to cut out the center of a piece of foamcore, strengthen the frame with duct tape, and sew the edges of the fabric to the frame. But I sense that would be very cheap and unstable. So let's see what I find. I can always come back to the idea. I can also go to a hardware store and buy plywood strips. I need something that can hold the weight of the beads as I work! (I did indeed find stretcher bars at Michaels. The largest was 22" square. That will have to do and will most likely be adequate. After all, I have to get my arms around behind it. A bigger problem was finding thumb tacks to attach the background fabric to the frame. Push pins seem to be more popular now. Thank goodness for hardware stores--they had plain, inexpensive, well-made thumb tacks!)

Discovering Recycling with FabMo
Meanwhile, I have also been investigating recycling fabric. Apparently home decor designers keep sample books, have samples for clients to take home, and at the end of some season, they just throw these away. If you go to www.Fabmo.org you will see how a kind couple are making an effort to keep these out of the landfills. With the help of volunteers and organizations that offer up space, they sort fabrics, wallpapers, trims, and so on. They set up appointments in order to prevent a huge crowded rush, and anyone wanting to create with these materials is invited in to choose at will and for FREE! I had not been before because it's at least a 6 hour drive for me. But I just had to see for myself. Tables are covered with stacks of samples of all sizes. There's not too much yardage but many pieces to sew together. They don't put everything out at once so that people coming in on the last day will have as much interesting variety as those who arrive the moment the doors open.

The concept works! Especially in these recessionary times, artists can use the boost. In October they will have a reception to show off a gallery of work. Judy's dolls will be there as well as Jan's purses and tote bags. Their young granddaughter made a collage that is very creative. I picked out mostly silks and linens and mostly in three color schemes. I found a piece of Polish linen in navy blue and built up a collection of burgundies and navy blues around it. For Trinity I picked out yellow cottons for her dolls. My other colors were brown/black and then a minty green and beige. I envision simple pieced kimono jackets. I understand that someone in Kansas City has already asked for information on starting the same project there. Heck, I'd like to start it nearby myself. I guess the first thing to do is to find the interior decorators. That likely won't be a problem in the wine country. When I took the ethnic embroidery class, I found people who would be interested in scraps. Today I found out my model, Janet, could use them for Christmas gifts (wrap wine bottles) and the receptionist at my physical therapy clinic is interested also. I think this should lead somewhere! www.fabmo.org

Edenwool--A Felting Star
In my travels around Facebook, I found a link to a fabulous Canadian artwear artist. Check out her work at www.edenwool.com

Feeling Sorry for Myself
I know I will soon forget so I'll mention this here and now so you'll know where my time has gone. My husband has felt sorry to have to push his chores onto me. He can't get around well and so I do the taking out of garbage and running to the store and whatever requires climbing up and down the stairs. The upshot is that now I have arthritis in my hip and find it painful to move around. So he thought he would do me a favor and help clean up my computer files. He went after the bookmarks. What he didn't know was that that overflow was where I would park sites I was going to mention in the blog. He eliminated duplications and put everything into alphabetical order. I barely paid attention to the names of blogs I'd set aside. I've now spent hours trying to reconstruct the list. Some of these will just have to wait until I come across them again. Today he went after the fridge. I closed my eyes and didn't watch! Till later, Rosalie